New To You X1/9 To-Do List - Do it now or do it later

I have owned my 1982 FIAT X 1/9 for 34 years. I bought it from a used car lot for little money Australian $ 2,000.00 at the time. A months wage, for a newly married printer. I was advised by the dealer that it ran quite well, but suffered overheating problems and was prone to blowing head gaskets. It had relatively low mileage for a five year old car. 48,000 km's. Researched the car and the engine's pedigree and found that the 1300/1500 engine from the FIAT 128 3P was a reliable unit. Bought the car as a nostalgic low-cost, Bertone style replacement for the Ferrari 308 Targa that I had to sell to finance my marriage.
The first year of ownership threw up the usual gremlins listed by others above. Warm liquid seeping into carpets from underneath. Coolant pipes rusted thin and loosing coolant under pressure. A cracked and crazed water expansion tank also loosing coolant. What a job cutting rusted cooling pipes under car with an angle grinder. Replaced finally with thick stainless steel pipes. Then discovered Midwest Bayless for my new coolant expansion tank. Four new KY struts, Swedish wheel bearings, disc pads and basically a daily driver for many years of trouble free motoring.
Yes occasional niggles of FIAT gremlins. Stiff window winders, Till kids grew up and wanted Italian baby Ferrari to impress girlfriend.
Eldest boy discovered by mistake that car can be accelerated by mistake from centre of floor. Bumper and nose were repaired after demolishing a post. Youngest son drove car as Uni daily driver for two years and returned the X1/9 in a mess. 48,000 km's now 100,000 km's for the new millennium. Kept the Italian dream going as a week-end drive. Then as a work car when other lesser cars failed. Till 2017 when a fuel leak from pump/filter lines caused a small engine fire around engine ignition. Still lovingly working on restoring my 34 year old Italian dream car with 145,000 km's. Compared with other cars it has not been a bad experience for a car that still turns heads from its unique Italian-Bertone styling. Always hoping to return my X 1/9 to the yearly Canberra Auto-Italia shows of stunning Italian deigns. Now dealing with small issues like body rust.
As an Italian born in Italy appreciate brilliant Auto design, even if its at the cost of impractical costs of maintaining the dream beyond certain use-by mileages.
 
Really grateful for this post as an amateur mechanic hoping to learn a thing or two with my upcoming '76 X. I keep telling myself not to get overwhelmed by the amount of things that'll need to be done. One thing at a time. This list and additional comments helped me greatly with prioritizing my tasks. Thanks all!

Don’t get overwhelmed, this list although long, is something which can be done in chunks by system. Some jobs are worse than others, namely the brake and clutch master cylinders, most work does not require unusual tools they are tools an average mechanic already has. The X is primarily an easy car to work on, things can be reached, your hands will generally fit though it will be tight in spots.

Something to keep in mind, ask some questions on the forum before starting down a path of repairs. We as a group have basically made every possible repair these cars need. We can give you tips, suggestions and in many cases good information around parsing out what the real issue is before starting in.

Good luck and don’t be a stranger, we love pictures and just understand that many of our discussions drift off subject at times.

Karl
 
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How about a 2 year list? Since Covid started, my X1/9 has been trapped in a garage behind a non running car. :(
 
I was advised when going to look at a used car for sale, to ask the seller to take you for a drive so you can see how the drive it properly. That's really code for you want to see how the owner drives it. You're trying to make the conversation during the drive as friendly as possible so you can get the driver to relax and drive as they usually do.

o Do they depress the clutch and keep it depressed while waiting at stop signs/lights? That means you're going to need a new throwout bearing sooner than later.
o Do they double clutch when downshifting?
o Is there any grinding or other sounds while they up or downshift?

Basically you want them to show you problems with the car so you can make an informed buying decision.

Another thing to check for (speaking personally from experience) - does the seller have the car warmed up whenever you come by? That probably means there's a cold start problem of some sort they're trying to hide. Also, when you take it for a test drive yourself, get about a block away and check the oil level. If it's low on oil, that's most likely a sign the car hasn't been well-maintained.
 
It would also be great if the previous owner had kept records, or the shop where parts were purchased, then you wouldn’t have to guess quite as much as to upcoming parts replacement costs, or being able to prioritize your budget. But yeah, it’s best to make a thorough laundry-list and knock off big chunks at a time :) It’s taken us a year just to get to cosmetic things, paint, dents, wheels, etc., because they don’t make the car run any better.
 
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It would also be great if the previous owner had kept records, or the shop where parts were purchased, then you wouldn’t have to guess quite as much as to upcoming parts replacement costs, or being able to prioritize your budget. But yeah, it’s best to make a thorough laundry-list and knock off big chunks at a time :) It’s taken us a year just to get to cosmetic things, paint, dents, wheels, etc., because they don’t make the car run any better.
When I bought my ‘79 in 2000, it came with a 4” stack of receipts. The yellow paper from the multiple page form that had carbon paper between each layer. I proudly displayed it at a binder the first few car shows I attended. About 7 years ago, I looked through at the binder to look for some specific repair job and realized all the ink had faded so it was a bunch of sheets of yellow paper. Needless to say; I tossed it.
 
Win some, lose some :) I pulled a 10-year-old Lowe’s water heater receipt out of my files recently - almost nothing left on the paper…
 
Hi Matt,

Geez, I still haven’t had a moment of time to drop in that fuel tank sender for the fuel gauge I bought from you over a year ago. In fact, now that I think about it there’s some thing else I bought from you hiding in the garage somewhere, but brain fade prevents me from knowing what that is at the moment. Way too much on my mind right now but I’ll be at BFI this weekend!!!
 
Win some, lose some :) I pulled a 10-year-old Lowe’s water heater receipt out of my files recently - almost nothing left on the paper…
True but unless you’re attending a water heater or Lowe’s show, people aren’t likely to look through your book o’receipts and squeal like little kids.
 
I've had this conversation with a couple of new and prospective new owners lately, so I figured I'd start a thread about it.

So you're considering the purchase of an X1/9. Let's say it's a 1980 1500, 5-Spd...
The ad and the seller says "Runs and Drives Great!"

However, starting in a 65 degree garage and making it twice around the block is way different than a worry free drive to another state and back with your significant other in the passenger seat...

Unless that car has a stack of maintenance records, you can't trust anything to be highly functional for long. Worst case scenario, you have to assume that most significant "consumable" parts on that car are 40 years old and may be near the end of their service life.

Anything that carries fluid (Fuel, Brake, Coolant) is suspect regardless of mileage. At or above 60K miles, electro mechanical items (Starter, Alternator, Switches, etc.) and mechanical (suspension, brakes, driveline, clutch) may start to come into question due to a combination of use + age.

So, as a new owner of a poorly maintained 40-year old car, you have two choices to make:
  • Start driving it, and fix things as they break. The first 30-40 days may be bliss. You'll say to yourself "man, I got a screaming deal, this thing is awesome, just needed some fresh gas and new tires!". Then you get stranded. Then you fix the thing that stranded you. Two weeks later, you get stranded again. You fix the thing that stranded you. Then you start cussing the car as a piece of s#*t FIAT and get a bad attitude about it. The problems persist, not because it's a FIAT, but because it's a 40 year old car that has been mechanically ignored by its previous owners and minimally supported by YOU.
  • Bite the bullet and commit to a complete mechanical refurbishment. Keep in mind that in most cases, an engine build / rebuild is not necessary.... And the refurb doesn't have to happen all at once, but in sections, one after another. Knowing that the odds of break-down are reduced with each completed section. But until you get it all done, you should bet on needing an occasional tow, and it's best your girlfriend or wife NOT take an afternoon ride into the boonies with you unless they have a good sense of adventure.
Now X1/9s are really basic mechanical packages, so you don’t need a PhD or secret handshake to do the necessary work if you’re already handy with a wrench. Aside from valve clearance adjustments, and wheel bearing replacement, a basic toolbox of metric wrenches and hand tools will do the trick.

Further, this place right here, www.xwebforums.org has 20 years of accumulated knowledge and tech posts to help you. Just about everything you will need to do to the car has been photo documented here by multiple owners. Xweb is an adjunct for the factory service manual.

In most cases if the car you're purchasing can make it around the block a few times, you’re looking at $6K of parts or less to do a pretty comprehensive mechanical refurb.

That is in-line with most 80's domestic car part prices, and a pittance compared to the same items on vintage imports like BMW, Porsche, Mercedes, or Jag

If you’re starting with a rust-free car, and you're able to turn all the wrenches, and you commit to the "full magilla" as they say for preventative maintenance, then you'll have a car that will be worth as much or maybe more than you've invested it, in most cases.

If your FIAT needs a complete interior, has rust issues, needs a paint job, an engine rebuild, or new trans then yeah, you'll be "upside down" investment-wise, but still doesn't mean it's not worthy of such effort. Dozens of other desirable 1980s sports cars are in the same boat.

Again, let me repeat:

The biggest disappointment for classic FIAT ownership is hoping against hope that its old parts won't fail.
...And then getting stranded 2 or 3 times a season because old parts did fail.
...And then getting mad at the car about it.

Just bite the bullet and plan to do it all.


Below is the laundry list of what is likely to need replacement after 40 years. Red is usually for 60K miles and higher

FUEL SYSTEM
  • New or Rebuilt Carb
  • Fuel Injectors
  • Fuel Pump
  • Fuel hoses including filler neck hose
  • Drop the fuel tank, check internal condition, replace if needed, along with new sending unit
ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION SYSTEM
  • Cap
  • Rotor
  • Plugs
  • Wires
  • Ground cable at battery
  • Ignition switch (miles dependent)
  • Starter or Alternator (miles dependent)
ENGINE
  • Timing belt / tens bearing
  • V-Belt
  • Oil pressure sending unit
  • Temp sending unit
  • Breather hose
  • Gaskets and Seals as needed
  • Valve adjustment
  • Motor mounts (miles and oil leak dependent)
EXHAUST
  • Exhaust manifold / Header / Muffler (miles dependent)
COOLING SYSTEM
  • Cooling hose main set x 5
  • Thermostat
  • Expansion tank (unless its already stainless or a good condition plastic with no bulge or rusty cap bung)
  • Water pump
  • Water pump return tube
  • Heater valve
  • Radiator
  • Undercar tubes (as needed, especially if coolant mix has been neglected, regardless of miles)
  • Blower fan switches
SUSPENSION / DRIVELINE
  • Struts x 4 (78 and earlier always replace, 79-on are miles dependent)
  • Upper strut mounts x 4
  • Radius rod bushings
  • Tie Rod ends (miles dependent)
  • Steering rack inner bushing
  • Control arms if needed (miles dependent)
  • Wheel bearings as needed (failure is caused by potholes, not miles)
  • CVs and boots
BRAKES AND CLUTCH
  • Clutch Pack
  • Clutch Master
  • Brake Master
  • Clutch Slave
  • Flexible Brake Hoses
  • Rotors
  • Pads
  • Reservoir Hoses
  • Reservoirs if needed
  • Calipers if needed (miles and storage condition dependent)
CABLES: (miles dependent)
  • Trunk / Engine Cover release lever cables
  • Speedo Cable(s)
-M
How long do these usually last, or, what is a sign they are not functioning properly, i.e. how long after engine shut-off should they continue to run - 5 minutes, 10 minutes, until the battery drains?

 
How long do these usually last, or, what is a sign they are not functioning properly, i.e. how long after engine shut-off should they continue to run - 5 minutes, 10 minutes, until the battery drains?

It will depend on the temperature conditions but my recollection from 1974 before I removed it was that it ran for about a minute or so. Definitely not 5 minutes or 10 minutes.
 
It will depend on the temperature conditions but my recollection from 1974 before I removed it was that it ran for about a minute or so. Definitely not 5 minutes or 10 minutes.
Thanks. I was wondering if Matt forgot to include it on his list of things to replace…
 
Really grateful for this post as an amateur mechanic hoping to learn a thing or two with my upcoming '76 X. I keep telling myself not to get overwhelmed by the amount of things that'll need to be done. One thing at a time. This list and additional comments helped me greatly with prioritizing my tasks. Thanks all!
Walter, the X 1/9 even your early 1300 will be a unique design amongst other cars and a car that handles well with a reliable under stressed motor. Italian cars are renowned for their need of upkeep and maintenance, but as a budding mechanic and this site it will become an interesting distraction during Covid lockdowns.
 
I've owned my '87 for 30 years and have hit 99% of the items on Matt's list. I have enjoyed the wrench time as much as the seat time. My message to new (younger) owners: Put the wrench time in, Matt has outlined it pretty well, it will be worth it! There will never be another car that will give you such enjoyment when driving around after you put the motor back together.
 
I have a bad feeling.

19 years ago I began lurking on GTV6.org. I had a new GTI and was bored with it. I had owned a Bosch Alfa spider right after college and liked it a lot. Wondered if I had the ability to daily drive a V6 Alfa. Well, my lurking turned into buying a GTV6 half a country away and driving it home. Daily drove that in Nebraska for 6 years then it underwent a full bare body "restoration".

When the kids left high school, I drove their old Buicks for a year or two, then thought about getting a more interesting "beater". Subarus were too expensive (nearly $5 grand), but I found an Alfa BB member selling a Milano Verde on the east side of Iowa for $2500. It had almost 200K miles on it, but recent head work. Figured if he was willing to drive it half way and meet in Des Moines, it would be worth the money. Still my summer daily and will turn 300K next week.

These only have left me on the side of the road once. Fuse #8 blew (EFI power on the GTV6) and I had to replace it - had one in the glovebox. Not sure if having to hit the fuel pump with a rock to get it going on the Milano counts.

Anyway, where was this going??? Oh yes, I find myself lurking on Xweb now. The X1/9 always has been interesting. Unlike the Alfas, they look to be in my normal budget (for now). I need to learn the ins and outs of them.

I think I know where this slippery slope ends. :)
 
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