Oil pressure time to ramp up

Yves

Yves

True Classic
Here is a small video cold start to observe the oil pressure ramp up delay of my car after they are parked for more then three days .
The oil is Shell Rotella T4 15W-40.

Video Oil Pressure ramp up

In my case the delay for turn off the warning red light oil pressure after the motor have start is about 2.5-3.0 sec.

I want to compare with other members to know if it is normal / acceptable.
What is your time for oil pressure ramp up at cold of your X?
 
Yves said:
Here is a small video cold start to observe the oil pressure ramp up delay of my car after they are parked for more then three days .
The oil is Shell Rotella T4 15W-40.

Video Oil Pressure ramp up

In my case the delay for turn off the warning red light oil pressure after the motor have start is about 2.5-3.0 sec.

I want to compare with other members to know if it is normal / acceptable.
What is your time for oil pressure ramp up at cold of your X?
Click to expand...
My ramps up immediately, but could be due to my ECU setting that revs up the engine to 2500 rpm at start. Once engine has started the ECU stables the idle at 880 rpm. Did this by recommendation from my tuner to quickly build up oil pressure and to initially squirt cam, tappets etc with oil.
My oil pressure is much lower than yours. I have 2 bar at idle, 3 bar at 3000 rpm, 4 bar at 4000 rpm. Maximum is 4.5-5 bar depending on temp.
I use Motul 15W/50 Racing oil.
 
Yves said:
Here is a small video cold start to observe the oil pressure ramp up delay of my car after they are parked for more then three days .
The oil is Shell Rotella T4 15W-40.

Video Oil Pressure ramp up

In my case the delay for turn off the warning red light oil pressure after the motor have start is about 2.5-3.0 sec.

I want to compare with other members to know if it is normal / acceptable.
What is your time for oil pressure ramp up at cold of your X?
Click to expand...
I believe the lag you are seeing is not what is actually happening. In my experience I see the same behavior with the voltmeter where the instrument doesn’t register anything initially, then jumps up to battery voltage and then jumps up again to reflect the alternator becoming excited and actually charging. I believe the behavior is partly related to the seatbelt timer system as on my car the voltmeter doesn’t register the full voltage until the seatbelt light goes out.

Yes, I know the alternator doesn’t generate power until a certain rpm is reached initially (which yours shows) but the behavior is too consistent to be otherwise in my case.

The only way to really know is to get a mechanical gauge set up and observe that.

As the oil pressure sender on your car is part of a T off the oil filter (I believe), it should be one of the first components to see pressure. As I recall EU cars have a separate port in the oil galley after the filter and wouldn’t see pressure until after the filter is full or bypassed (in cold weather or the filter being clogged) though it might be the other way around galley to the filter versus galley from the filter to the rest of the distribution system.

Personally I wouldn’t rev it to get it to register pressure, I would let it idle at the lowest point to minimize damage. On my early Miata (I know a very different car) the gauge registers very high pressures when cold at @60 psi at idle, approaching 90 when revved so I drive very gingerly until it warms up. On a turbo car I would especially not want to rev it at startup because a small turbo spins up fast and with low oil pressure (and the fact that it gravity drains oil into the pan) I would want to ensure oil is getting to it before it spins much at all.

In any case I would not rev it until you see pressure on the gauge.
 
Bjorn Nilson said:
My ramps up immediately, but could be due to my ECU setting that revs up the engine to 2500 rpm at start. Once engine has started the ECU stables the idle at 880 rpm. Did this by recommendation from my tuner to quickly build up oil pressure and to initially squirt cam, tappets etc with oil.
My oil pressure is much lower than yours. I have 2 bar at idle, 3 bar at 3000 rpm, 4 bar at 4000 rpm. Maximum is 4.5-5 bar depending on temp.
I use Motul 15W/50 Racing oil.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply,
it is probably sure if the rev is set 2500rpm the ramp will be faster. Another variable is also oil pressure sensor sensitivity.

I'm curious to see comments of other folks with original ecu and setup.
 
Yves said:
Here is a small video cold start to observe the oil pressure ramp up delay of my car after they are parked for more then three days .
The oil is Shell Rotella T4 15W-40.

Video Oil Pressure ramp up

In my case the delay for turn off the warning red light oil pressure after the motor have start is about 2.5-3.0 sec.

I want to compare with other members to know if it is normal / acceptable.
What is your time for oil pressure ramp up at cold of your X?
Click to expand...
Try replacing your oil filter with a different brand...

SteveC
 
For your information the oil filter is Bosch 3402.

s-l1600.jpg
 
Following recommendation from folks I will try a new oil filter.
UFI Brand. More precisely UFI 23.448.00, this oil filter have "Anti-return valve. Pressure Bypass Valve 1,6 Bar".

I need to order the oil filter.
If someone have another brand with "Anti-return valve" let me know.
 
Most filter brands offer models with and without a anti return valve for the same fitment. Various applications require one or the other, so it's made both ways with different part numbers. Same with bypass valves, and other features. You can also get different size cans (longer or shorter) if you have room for a larger capacity.
 
kmead said:
I believe the lag you are seeing is not what is actually happening. In my experience I see the same behavior with the voltmeter where the instrument doesn’t register anything initially, then jumps up to battery voltage and then jumps up again to reflect the alternator becoming excited and actually charging. I believe the behavior is partly related to the seatbelt timer system as on my car the voltmeter doesn’t register the full voltage until the seatbelt light goes out.

Yes, I know the alternator doesn’t generate power until a certain rpm is reached initially (which yours shows) but the behavior is too consistent to be otherwise in my case.

The only way to really know is to get a mechanical gauge set up and observe that.

As the oil pressure sender on your car is part of a T off the oil filter (I believe), it should be one of the first components to see pressure. As I recall EU cars have a separate port in the oil galley after the filter and wouldn’t see pressure until after the filter is full or bypassed (in cold weather or the filter being clogged) though it might be the other way around galley to the filter versus galley from the filter to the rest of the distribution system.

Personally I wouldn’t rev it to get it to register pressure, I would let it idle at the lowest point to minimize damage. On my early Miata (I know a very different car) the gauge registers very high pressures when cold at @60 psi at idle, approaching 90 when revved so I drive very gingerly until it warms up. On a turbo car I would especially not want to rev it at startup because a small turbo spins up fast and with low oil pressure (and the fact that it gravity drains oil into the pan) I would want to ensure oil is getting to it before it spins much at all.

In any case I would not rev it until you see pressure on the gauge.
Click to expand...
Hello Karl,
I will possibly order a Mann W920/21 Oil filter and see if the ramp up delay change. To be follow
 
kmead said:
I believe the lag you are seeing is not what is actually happening. In my experience I see the same behavior with the voltmeter where the instrument doesn’t register anything initially, then jumps up to battery voltage and then jumps up again to reflect the alternator becoming excited and actually charging. I believe the behavior is partly related to the seatbelt timer system as on my car the voltmeter doesn’t register the full voltage until the seatbelt light goes out.

Yes, I know the alternator doesn’t generate power until a certain rpm is reached initially (which yours shows) but the behavior is too consistent to be otherwise in my case.

The only way to really know is to get a mechanical gauge set up and observe that.

As the oil pressure sender on your car is part of a T off the oil filter (I believe), it should be one of the first components to see pressure. As I recall EU cars have a separate port in the oil galley after the filter and wouldn’t see pressure until after the filter is full or bypassed (in cold weather or the filter being clogged) though it might be the other way around galley to the filter versus galley from the filter to the rest of the distribution system.

Personally I wouldn’t rev it to get it to register pressure, I would let it idle at the lowest point to minimize damage. On my early Miata (I know a very different car) the gauge registers very high pressures when cold at @60 psi at idle, approaching 90 when revved so I drive very gingerly until it warms up. On a turbo car I would especially not want to rev it at startup because a small turbo spins up fast and with low oil pressure (and the fact that it gravity drains oil into the pan) I would want to ensure oil is getting to it before it spins much at all.

In any case I would not rev it until you see pressure on the gauge.
Click to expand...
Karl,
FYI I have the doubler for pressure gauge and oil switch for the red light.

ScreenShot121.jpg
 
I made more test today ...
After the engine was started if I stop the engine for few minutes and restart the ramp delay is less then a second.
I try at mid temperature of engine and at normal temp.

Video of my tests

My conclusion is probably the Oil filter anti-drainback valve doesn't work properly.
I will order a new filter and will let you know the result.

Thanks for all the feedback
 
There is (was?) a website that gave a bunch of data for a very long list of oil filters. It showed all sorts of information; dimensions, flow rates, filtration rates, specific features, etc, etc, for each filter. And it covered most of the major brands and countless models of filters. However when I just tried to pull it up all I got was a blank page....no idea what's going on:
OilFilterData.com
 
Dr.Jeff said:
There is (was?) a website that gave a bunch of data for a very long list of oil filters. It showed all sorts of information; dimensions, flow rates, filtration rates, specific features, etc, etc, for each filter. And it covered most of the major brands and countless models of filters. However when I just tried to pull it up all I got was a blank page....no idea what's going on:
OilFilterData.com
Click to expand...
Yes, a blank page. Obviously the content has been filtered out.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
There is (was?) a website that gave a bunch of data for a very long list of oil filters. It showed all sorts of information; dimensions, flow rates, filtration rates, specific features, etc, etc, for each filter. And it covered most of the major brands and countless models of filters. However when I just tried to pull it up all I got was a blank page....no idea what's going on:
OilFilterData.com
Click to expand...
Jeff,
I will give a try on Mann oil filter

Mann W920/21 Data Sheet
 
I didn't know that some filters have an anti-return valve. What are the benefits?
When I purchased the UT engine, 4 or 5 oil filters were included. The standard UT filter (same filter as X1/9) is too long to fit the UT engine when installed in an X1/9. This is my last short Klaxcar filter and I don't know if it's still on the market so I wonder what other X owners with UT engines are using?
1692712211853.jpeg
 
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