"One thing leads to another"

Jeremy128

True Classic
So I finally got the x 1/9 struts on my 128. I took it for a test drive and realized that the front end needs ALOT more work than I thought!
At low speeds, and straight lines, the suspension feel alot better. But, once in teh turns, it scared the hell out of me!
I went intot he turns normally, scrub off some speed, downshift, enter the turn and give it some gas to pull it through the turn smoothly. First turn was OK, but a little loose. Next turn, was teh scary one. 1/2 way through th eturn, I let off the gas just a tiny bit, and the whol efront end seemed to instantly loosen up and the car started to go straight, while in the turn! This was severe enough that I instantly let off the gas which was a mistake in hindsight. As I let off teh gas, I grabbed the window frame of driver door to brace for an accident. I was cetrain that the car was going to shoot stright off th eroad in the turn. Yep, I heard the loudest noise in the world.... the sound of my a$$hole slammin closed! I turned around, and headed home. While going through that first turn, I did the same thing again to try to figure out/feel what was going on, but at a much slower speed. Same result.
So, I knew I needed to replace tie-rods. control arm bushings, and it needs an alignment badly. Now with the X struts, it is worse. I'd assume the toe in and camber is out of whack too since I installed lowed struts. Am I missing anything else that may lead to this?
 
I betcha an alignment will fix 90% of the problem...

A FWD car NEEDS to have a bit of TOW OUT... unlike RWD cars. I found tis out the HARD way also... as I had PURPOSELY dialed in about 1/8 inch toe in and WOW... what a WILD RIDE!

FWD cars tend to want to push the tires together (in front of the car) as they claw their way forward. About 1/8 inch toe out will usually solve the problem.

Use the string method to get in the ballpark... Jiminy D can point out the specifics for ya. I fear the new struts, or their installation
probably exasterbated the problem...

Let us know how ya do...
 
Tony's right...

...correct toe on fwd is critical.

Lowering alters toe.
Simple to adjust.
Much easier on 128 than on X1/9.
DIY string alignment will get pretty close.

Lowering also decambers a bit.
Which negatively affects braking and torquesteer.
Not as dramatically as toe,
but something to address eventually.
Camber bolts are easiest way to adjust.
I use carpenters level to measure camber.
 
we have always run about 1 to 2mm of toe in on our fwd subarus, toe out makes them pull left or right on the road, makes the steering hold and heavier... and I run about 2mm of toe in on my awd landcruiser.
Once when I got tyres fitted the alignment guy couldn't believe I had 8mm of toe in! can't say I'd noticed it while driving, he adjusted in to 2mm in.
Interesting you prefer it the other way.
 
I need to get new tires before I do any alignment work. THe ires I am running wer eon the wheels when I pulled them off of an x1/9 parts car a while back..... Jim remembers the car. He helped yank the engine.
When I can afford new tires, I will have to check the place out that Chris suggested.
 
we have always run about 1 to 2mm of toe in on our fwd subarus, toe out makes them pull left or right on the road, makes the steering hold and heavier... and I run about 2mm of toe in on my awd landcruiser.
Once when I got tyres fitted the alignment guy couldn't believe I had 8mm of toe in! can't say I'd noticed it while driving, he adjusted in to 2mm in.
Interesting you prefer it the other way.

My AWD (really just a modified FWD, they didn't have a true AWD system in '98) Volvo is the same - I run 1/8" toe in.
 
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