Opinion: what basic upgrades?

janet80

lovin' my X
Hi folks,
Before I purchase some items,I would like to know which items are absolutely necessary for (rarely) autocross and (often) "spirited street driving."
Would these be worthwhile:
oil pan baffle (the way I take corners is not Granny-like)
steering rack bushing upgrade
drilled and slotted rotors
braided brake hoses instead of rubber stock hoses
I will definitely buy better than stock brake pads.
What else do you suggest for entry-level autocross (If I get bitten by the bug)? :hmm:
 
OPINIONS... huh...

Well here's a few...

I'd vote for the following, in this order:

1. Tires
2. Springs, cut or performance
3. Struts (Do this at the same time with the springs... add Plaia Pivots!)
4. Pan Baffle
5. ... and then the other possibilities are endless

Have fun and watch out for hundreds of more OPINIONS!
 
None of the above...

oil pan baffle (the way I take corners is not Granny-like)
steering rack bushing upgrade
drilled and slotted rotors
braided brake hoses instead of rubber stock hoses
I will definitely buy better than stock brake pads.

None of the above.
A well-maintained bone-stock X is already quite up to spirited driving, hard cornering, and entry-level autocross. Try it for a while first and then see what you want to upgrade.

I'd definitely consider upgrading wheels and tires, especially if you are still using the stock narrow and skinny setup. 145/80 on a 4.5" wheel was pretty decent on a sports car in 1978, but it's not exactly the state of the art in this century.

If you're replacing the steering rack bushing anyways, it's worth replacing it with the nice aluminum one that Matt sells, just so you won't ever have to mess with it again... but no reason to do that until you have to change the old one out.
 
I autocross my daily driver and this is what I suggest.

Like EricH said....only mess with the steering rack if you need to.

Check the rules first...to find out which class you want to run in. You can't upgrade to slotted rotors, cut springs or wider than 5-1/2" rims if you run in a "stock" class.

If you choose to go to a "street prepared" class...you can do quite a bit to the car.

What will help you the most and make the car down right scary to drive is 185/60-R13 autocross tires on 5-1/2" rims. If your car is currently unmodified....a set of autocross tires will transform the way this car handles. You will be able to corner so fast you will swear the bolts holding the frontend together are going to sheer off!
No kidding! They will make your car scary fun!

No need for an oil pan baffle. Just over fill the crank case by 1/4 quart. Many on this forum swear by this as do I.

If you need to change brake pads...might as well get some good ones. They don't cost that much more. The whole idea in autocross is to not use the brakes anyhow. BRAKES... I DON'T NEED NO STINKING BRAKES! Pick your lines and smooth out the corners and you hardly ever hit the brakes on an autocross course. No need for braded brake lines or drilled rotors either.

4 or 5 point seat belt harness will keep you planted behind the wheel. You will need it if you get the sticky tires.

Remove as much weight as you can legally. This will help acceleration and help the car in transitions. It will also help your gas milage.:):)

Purchase a helmet with a SNELL 2005 rating. The loner helmets are smelly and don't usually fit very well.

If you need to replace the clutch....purchase a lightened flywheel from MidWest X-1/9. This is by far one of the single best modifications you can make to any X-1/9.

And lastly....Go out and have fun! You already have the perfect car....have fun with it!
 
Thread hijack - 5-1/2" rims and stcok class

Check the rules first...to find out which class you want to run in. You can't upgrade to slotted rotors, cut springs or wider than 5-1/2" rims if you run in a "stock" class.

Are 5-1/2" OK? I though the limit was 5" - did some late-model X's come stock with 5-1/2" rims? Damn, I thought one of my cars would be DSP just because of the 5-1/2" rims...
 
Thanks to everyone for the input. It sounds like I may not need as much as I thought right away.
 
SWAY BARS!

First the front and then the rear. Tires won't help if you can't keep the car level (or more level at least).
 
My list...

...based on tuning and floggin a few Xs over the years.
Ergo...a field tested list, based on stated goals.
More emphasis on competition driving would create different list.

1. Fresh rubber, no doubt.
I'm outta the loop on current particulars,
but previously ran Spec Racer Ford DOT race tires...Yoko, BFG, & Toyo variations.
Harsher ride, tread life limited to few thousand miles.
No other mod will create as dramatic an improvement in grip.
And improved steering response of stiff sidewalls.
Takeoffs readily available for cheap.
Scuffs can be found for pair'o c-notes.
You'll feel like you have big red "S" on your chest.

Less radical, but far more grip than normal rubber is high pro street rubber.
This category has dwindled to near extinction in our size.
Again, I'm outta the current loop,
but the Toyo has maintained production of our size.
Similar attributes of Spec Racer rubber, but more civilized.
Except the price...600 simolians.
Yikes.

For typical hobby X,
normal steet rubber will still show tread depth
long after reaching an age where replacement is prudent.
Just like trailer tires...it ain't the miles...it's the age
that defines end of life.
Cost a few hundred $ more that normal street rubber,
but in macro picture,
mere pennies ADDITIONAL than simple rim protector rubber.

2. Insure all OE suspension/steering/brake components are in good nick.
Replace as needed.

3. Performance alignment.
Insure caster/camber are same each side.
Use settings towards maximum positive caster and maximum negative camber of spec range.
Toe setting opinions are like belly buttons.
Definitely less toe in on front than specs call for.

Notice focus thus far is optimizing OE characteristics.
As stated, OE is great lil' package as-is.
Now...if you wanna spend money on speed parts and bragging rights, read on...

4. KYB Gr2 struts. If OE hydraulic struts are worn out,
new gas struts will restore worn dampening,
improve it somewhat over hydraulic replacements,
still ride decently,
and cost far less than other performanc struts.

5. Improve springs. Two different approches:
Option 1: Install cut rear springs on front.
Minimal cost, improved steering response, reduced body roll,
harsher ride due to changing OE front/rear balance.
Option 2. IAP/Vicks lowering springs.
Downside is tariff...300 simolians,
but all the performance improvements of cut rears,
plus provides better ride.

They don't change OE "nose high" attitude.
For comfortable ride, install as purchased.
Optionally, cut fronts to improve stance.
If you don't cut front springs, install Plaia pivots at the same time.
They reduce steering effort nicely, and are inexpensive.
Can be made to work with properly cut springs and TLC.

6. Install front swaybar.
I ran upgraded spring/strut combo for couple years.
Then added sway bar.
Made me a believer...to further enhance
a basic street suspension.

That's as far as I'd take suspension
for hobby car that doesn't see much competition use.

At that point, engine mods would be in order.
But that's another thread...
MM
 
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