Plugging EGR ports

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User1

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<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD colSpan=2><TABLE width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-TOP: 4px" vAlign=top colSpan=2>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Plugging EGR ports<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 2 2001 at 4:24 PM[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Dale [/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=bottom colSpan=3><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD colSpan=3>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->For those that removed their EGR systems, what did you use to plug the exhaust manifold outlet? What is the thread of this fitting--(NPT, metric)?

I plan to run the air pump outlet at the crankcase directly into the head inlet for the air pump, removing the pump. There appears to be some kind of valve at the head inlet. I dont see any problems doing this, has anyone else tried it?

Tony, could you get a little more detailed as to which carb vacuum ports you pluged, or tied together? Did you keep the "gulp" valve, or vacuum tree? What about the vac. accel. pump port?


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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 3 2001, 1:46 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Dale...

I remember writing ALL about this stuff somewhere... just can't find it now...

I don't know the sizes but this is what I did... in a SUMMARIZED form.

1. Removed ALL the smog equipment, AIR, EGR, GULP, Antibackfire valve, vacuum manifold, etc, etc. (Yes I removed the valve at the head... used the fitting to determine the plug to buy)

2. Plugged ALL outlets, water and vacuum and exhaust.

Water for EGR was plugged with a 10mm tap and a 13mm head metric bolt, copper washer and silicone. Routed other lines directly in and out of the choke.

Exhaust ports at the manifold and at the head were plugged with metric (oil) drain plugs found at the bolt bins at most parts stores.

Vacuum ports, I left the distributor vacuum alone, tied the two ports together on the right sit of the carb, and two on the left.

The tank gas fume pipe from the GULP valve that went to the carb horn... I tied this directly from the separators near the tank. I left the separators in as I was lazy at this point.

After removing some of the brackets (generator, AIR, vacuum manifold) I had to reinstall some shorter bolts... I was able to trade and swap from most of what I removed and reuse. One or two I cut down and re-dyed.

All functions appear to work EXTREMELY well. Secondary opens, choke works, vacuum advance works, throttle response vastly improved... I am still on the first tank but I think I'll pick up a mile or two in mpg.

My approach overall was to remove it all and close it up in the simpliest manner possible... I did leave the crankcase to Air Cleaner tube in place... as this doesn't appear to hurt performance...

Get started and let me/us know how you're developing...

Best Regards,


Tony Natoli
1979 X1/9 with 148K and still steamin'
Santa Clarita, CA<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]lezesig[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Ah ha !<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 4 2001, 5:35 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi Tony,
We might as well drive this issue into the ground and work all the bugs out of the conversion.

The Power valve. When vacuum is continually supplied to this mechanism then its diaphram will never relax and unseat the checkball for delivery of the enriched fuel mixture.

Effect ? Less fuel use (from the power valve circuit)during startup and cold run. The entire power valve mechanism and its flow is made inoperable. Cool, in the context of this conversion.

I assume this is one of the (2) components you loop plumbed on the carb.


>>>As a caution...if the vacuum line to the power valve assembly is severed, blocked, or pierced then the valve will deliver unwanted excess fuel to the carb (continuously).

out for now,
lezesig '79 X 1/9

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 5 2001, 7:45 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Drive it to the ground... I think its now IMBEDDED ten feet INTO the ground!

Good to hear... that the power valve is/was vacuum controlled.

When I originally FAILED the smog test I pulled the air cleaner and found a cut, yet smashed vacuum line on the left side. I apparently had trapped it under the bottom air cleaner pan.

I THOUGHT I knew how a power valve worked... never gave it a second thought here being involved with a vacuum circuit.

MAKES SENSE though... and works GREAT!

Thanks for the input Les!~




Best Regards,


Tony Natoli
1979 X1/9 with 148K and still steamin'
Santa Clarita, CA<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]lezesig[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Still working on the fuel tank ....<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 5 2001, 5:53 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Issue ! Ha!
The tank is not vented at the cap. The tank WAS vented to the carbon can. The (here's the scarey part Tony ) carb was vented TO the carbon can.

The carb has a ONEWAY valve that only allows vapors to escape FROM the carb.

So now we have the tank effectively blocked off at the carbs [internal] oneway valve.

I can forsee some potential problems when the ambient temp changes this season. Tank may swell or vacuum itself. Arrgghhh

I'd sure like to vent the tank and the carb to atmosphere directly via a J-tube and safety filter !

...as a sidenote...I believe the removed burp valve has a saftey port to prevent tank collapse or expansion. Gonna have to look at the schematic once again.

Thoughts ? : )

out for now,
lezesig '79 X 1/9<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 75px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Down we go another 10 feet...<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 5 2001, 8:08 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 75px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Ya got me Les...

Ya say there is an internal one way valve???

I vented the tank to the large nibble on the top of the carb horn...

Hmmmmm... I don't know... you look it up. I drove it 30 miles up and down the twisties on a 98 degree day and had no problem except for one extremely hard right turn were I sputtered due to fuel slosh in the carb bowl. I also screw my cap down snug... and there were no fuel smells. (I have no rear glass and the inner baffle to the hood is removed also... so if there are ANY fumes. I smell them NOW!)

Venting to atmosphere couldn't hurt too much either...

HA!

Hey... see my new thread today... CHP does it again!

Best Regards,


Tony Natoli
1979 X1/9 with 148K and still steamin'
Santa Clarita, CA<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]June 6 2001, 12:10 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 75px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->First I removed the vapour cannister and associated
pipes.Removed the plastic fuel/air separators.Then
coupled up the two pipes from these to form a tee and
ran a fuel quality hose from these to the three way
valve and then on to the carby fuel bowl vent.The throttle vent goes to the air cleaner.So now the tank is vented and fuel vapor from the carby goes to the air cleaner when the throttle is closed.Been running this way for about a year with no problems.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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