Quick weird clutch/trans question

tfphoenix

tfphoenix

King Phoenix
Hey guys. So I can drive a stick but I'm not all up on how they work. I get the basics, friction pressure plate release bearing etc. But the other day while the car was up on jack stands with the rear wheels off my friend wanted me to start it up so he could hear it. When I started it the cv shaft on the drivers side started turning... while the car was still in neutral. Neither of us knew if that was normal or not. I am under the impression that neutral is completely disengaged on a manual tranny. It stopped moving when I put the clutch in. Is that normal? What caused it?
 
I'll take a chance.

The shaft(+ gears) going into the transmission is turning and is moving oil around in there. This movement against the other gears( fluid only) is causing them to turn. I would think it could easily be stopped or will not turn if the oil is warmed up after a run. ,,,,normal,,
 
It's normal enough

It's normal enough, especially when the transmission oil is still cold. The gears aren't mechanically locked to the output shaft in neutral, but as they spin they'll rotate the shaft a bit.

Somewhere back on mira there's a story about trying to start a 128 in winter when there was GL1 in the gearbox - the starter motor would move the car in neutral.
 
my army truck is like that ... the gear lube is so thick that when I crank it, the whole truck wants to move. when it does start(when it's cold), i'll let the clutch out in neutral and the lube is so thick, it'll stall the engine!

jim
'81 X
"73 pinzgauer 710M
'02 ducati monster
 
Mt-90 Redline

I must remember to try this some time when it's cold out , just for the curiocity of it. My guess is it will not turn the wheel . I know there is no stifness in shifting when it is cold.(up to freezing anyway) :nod:
 
I will be

Replacing the fluid with MT90 probably within the week. I'll see if it changes. You have to take the wheel off though with the weight of it it doesn't move.
 
Probably won't change

tfphoenix said:
Replacing the fluid with MT90 probably within the week. I'll see if it changes. You have to take the wheel off though with the weight of it it doesn't move.
Click to expand...

I use Redline MTL, and all of my transmissions will turn the driveshafts in neutral if they're off the ground. Palm of my hand on the shafts is all it takes to stop them.
 
Not all that uncommon....

during the 2 years I spent working as an Auto Mechanic, it was not uncommon for one wheel to turn with the gearbox in neutral and the engine running. This was evident on many makes of cars.

The way it was explained to me, the oil viscosity when cold has enough stick to it that it will turn the output shaft, usually the shortest one as it offers less resistance. Once the gear lube warms up, it happens less often.

Now, having lived in the great climate of Northern Canada, I have experienced a frozen gearbox, to the point where I had to sit with my foot on the clutch for about 15 minutes with the engine running to warm up the gear lube.

An old farmer's trick is to drain half the gear lube and top it up with ATF. But don't forget to drain and re-fill in the spring.

Have a great day folks.
 
MTL and MT-90

Generally most use MTL for street use and Mt- 90 for racing as it is better suited for hot use. I chose the Mt-90 anyway for street because I don't drive in winter and I preferred to have it a bit thicker to help avoid any drips. The coldest I drove in was at freezing temp. and there was no stifness, and it shifts the best since I've owed the car (20 Years). Been using it for 2 years since rebuilt.
 
ZOMBIE THREAD.

Hello again. I know there are a lot of clutch slave threads but I hate hijacking and what I have read has confused me because I think maybe someone put a different type of slave on my car because the 5spd doesn't normally have the spring right? Here is my slave...

cs1j.jpg


cls2j.jpg


I assume those two nuts have something to do with adjusting it?

The problem I am having is the clutch does not begin to grab until the pedal is very high.

:dead::dead::dead::dead:
 
Sounds more like a worn disc/pressure plate, that would be the normal symptom of same. This is assuming the hydraulics are good, of course.

tfphoenix said:
The problem I am having is the clutch does not begin to grab until the pedal is very high.

:dead::dead::dead::dead:
Click to expand...
 
Oh? If that's the case I will have a professional do it. Also I forgot to mention I don't have a helper to get an accurate measurement right now but the throw on the slave appears to be about 3/4 inch, definitely not 1-1/4 as I've seen mentioned...
 
Can anyone advise on those pictures how it is adjusted? If it is in need of a clutch that's all right and well but I would like to know before I spend the money on a kit :)
 
That pic is identical to my 5speed. The spring others mention is a return spring from the lever arm, not the damper spring on the rod.

I as see it, that adjustment is to ensure the push rod ( and therefore the T/O) is not under pressure when the pedal is released. It won't change a high pedal.
 
Adjustment is easy

tfphoenix said:
Can anyone advise on those pictures how it is adjusted? If it is in need of a clutch that's all right and well but I would like to know before I spend the money on a kit :)
Click to expand...

Take the spring off the end of the slave shaft. Then push the release arm towards the bell housing as far as it will go using hand pressure, and let go. Now it is sitting with the release bearing touching the pressure plate, so that any further movement (which you annot do with hand pressure - it'll feel like you're pushing on a brick wall, not a spring).

At that position, there should be just a skosh, maybe 2-3 millimeters, of play between the rounded nut on the shaft that pushes on the arm, and the arm itself. If not, loosen the locknut on the arm, and turn the rounded nut in or out to get the right spacing, and lock it with the locknut again.
 
Ahhh. I will try this. Thanks!

I already ordered the clutch kit today but if I don't need it I'll hold on to it till I do :)
 
K&N Air Filter...

.... you want is an R-1380 :grin:

The opening is offset so you can rotate it around the air meter to get the best position for your setup.
 
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