Radiator

I had read something, maybe here, about ONLY using old fashioned green ethylene glycol coolant, as the water pump seals don't like the new stuff. Not sure it's relevant, but worth mentioning.
 
I had read something, maybe here, about ONLY using old fashioned green ethylene glycol coolant, as the water pump seals don't like the new stuff. Not sure it's relevant, but worth mentioning.
It is indeed a little more complicated now - there's IAT, OAT and HOAT coolants. The Prestone green stuff is not like the "old" style coolants which is OAT I believe. I wouldn't suggest using tap water - deionized or distilled is the best choice. But the generic Prestone green is a good choice for our cars. My friend uses Ford green for his Ferrari 308 - and he changes it every two years.
 
I've been planning this as well, and I also have the "winner racing" radiator bookmarked on possible sources. There is some talk about it on this site. An ebay review says it is great but not quite a straight fit.

I've got 2 winner racing rads, one for the classic Mini, and one for the 128 sedan. Neither one fit, and they weren't interested in solving the problem....😠
 
Does anyone happen to know if there's any significant design/quality/performance difference between the "Texas Heat" aluminum rad offered by Vick, and the "CSF" aluminum rad offered by Midwest Bayless?



At first glance, they look to be pretty comparable. Though it looks like the MWB might be of higher overall build quality, which might account for the higher price tag. (MWB's also has a 3 year warranty; not sure about Vick's.)

I think both have been praised.

I know sage Xers say not to skimp on radiator build/performance quality.

Anyone have any more details/insights about them, beyond what's noted on their sites?
 
I've been planning this as well, and I also have the "winner racing" radiator bookmarked on possible sources. There is some talk about it on this site. An ebay review says it is great but not quite a straight fit.


How would this be better than the Vick offering?

Asking for a friend. ;)
 
Does anyone happen to know if there's any significant design/quality/performance difference between the "Texas Heat" aluminum rad offered by Vick, and the "CSF" aluminum rad offered by Midwest Bayless?



At first glance, they look to be pretty comparable. Though it looks like the MWB might be of higher overall build quality, which might account for the higher price tag. (MWB's also has a 3 year warranty; not sure about Vick's.)

I think both have been praised.

I know sage Xers say not to skimp on radiator build/performance quality.

Anyone have any more details/insights about them, beyond what's noted on their sites?

Just found these post, which are insightful:


Hmm.. interesting..

 
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Another potentially good aluminum option from Henk in the Netherlands:

 
The core is 1.5" thick.
Thank you. That seems great !! I think that is about the thickest core they could have put in there. And lots of tubes.

Was your X running ? And with the original rad still ? And running hot or something ? any noted change in temps with the new rad ?

Thanks again. Doug
 
No not running. It wants to be running but developed a rad leak during a flush. And a water pump leak and once the belt was off the alternator bearings were noticeably rough, so swapped those out. Almost ready to give it another go. We'll see.
 
Update. Car running, poorly, with issues as described in my 'Distributor cap' thread. Anyways, looked underneath with car at operating temperature, guess what, drip, drip, drip out of the front of the tube box! I'm slowly losing my optimism!
 
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