rear brake caliper problem

Duncan

True Classic
Hi,

the brake caliper ceased on, that bad that smoke came off the wheel and the pads were toast. I tried to wind it back but it was stuck so I removed it from the car and replaced it with a spare which was winding back pretty good. I replaced the disk/rotar and pads but the brake is still binding.

I then took the wheel off and used a windback tool on the caliper on the car but it won't go back as far as it did on the bench - which makes putting the pads back in a tight fit.

I'm at a loss to know what could be causing the brake to bind as I have new rotor, pads and the caliper was working great on the bench?

Regards

Duncan

Fiat x1/9 European version 1.5
 
Is your brake fluid reservoir cracked? I had this problem and moisture had got into the brake fluid. Brakes starting binding pretty much as soon as you used them. Car couldn't be moved!
 
new rear hoses? They can act as one-way check valves when they collapse internally. So they pressure up and brake but won't allow the brakes to back off again when pedal is released.
 
Hi,

the brake caliper ceased on, that bad that smoke came off the wheel and the pads were toast. I tried to wind it back but it was stuck so I removed it from the car and replaced it with a spare which was winding back pretty good. I replaced the disk/rotar and pads but the brake is still binding.

I then took the wheel off and used a windback tool on the caliper on the car but it won't go back as far as it did on the bench - which makes putting the pads back in a tight fit.

I'm at a loss to know what could be causing the brake to bind as I have new rotor, pads and the caliper was working great on the bench?

Regards

Duncan

Fiat x1/9 European version 1.5

Check to see if the rubber brake hose to the caliper is collapsed and only letting the fluid travel in one direction.
 
Is the slot in the back end of the handbrake adjuster thingo the right way around? (there is a "high" side and a "low" side). Part #6 in this diagram

rear-caliper.gif


If not the "wedge" (part #4) can partially pop out and jam the handbrake partly on. The clue here is that the piston is reluctant to screw back in - but probably worked fine on the bench before the first time the handbrake lever was moved (either when installing the cable or operating the handbrake from the cabin depending on cable re-connection method) when installed on the car.

Easy to check on the car - peel back the boot on the rear of the caliper and get someone to operate the handbrake. You'll soon see if you've got a problem there.
 
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