Rear brakes

D

Denise Burchette

True Classic
Hey guys. Got an 87 X19 that had no pads left on the rear. The caliper pistons are fully extended. How do you get them to retract? Are they like a 124 where you have to fit a big screwdriver in the slot and turn them? If so, does it go clockwise? They are not turning. If not, what other suggestions do you have?
Thanks.
 
Yes...

The rear calipers' pistons screw in clockwise. Use a small pry bar or very large screwdriver to do it. If it's stuck, it may take some soaking with PB Blaster or similar.

And, if that much effort is needed, they are probably corroded beyond reuse without repair and rebuilding. Screwing the crusty piston back in past the seal could destroy the seal. :(

On second though you may want to unscrew them and remove them so as to clean things up. At least this way you'll know how bad the corrosion is.
 
If you have to take them apart to rebuild, gimme a call. I just finished rebuilding my third set of rears and I have a tool for getting them back together. (So does Yves, but I'm closer).

Also (incredibly) Autozone can still get rebuilds for about $80 each if you give them the old ones as cores.
 
As the boys say Denise...

If they are that extended (and probably have never been rebuilt) now is the time to do it.

And take up Eric's offer with his "tool" as reassembling those boogers takes three hands and a vice otherwise. Take some photos as well 'cause I wanna see just what this tool is!

BTW... My helper hint is to grind down one of the smaller corners of the "PAWL" so that its easier to get started back in place... and once in place... it is not affected by the alteration.

http://www.socalx.com/xhelp/X1-9_331-XX_33-5.pdf

It's Item #10 on page 33-16...
 
Wow, EricH...............!!

EricH said:
......and I have a tool for getting them back together........
Click to expand...

.......any chance of posting a pic on this tool? Is this a tool for helping get that pawl-thingie back into place, after compressing the springy washer pack?? :eek:mg:
Would really be grateful for a pic so that I may be able fabricate something here to do the job!!

cheers, Ian - NZ
 
You may have to rebuild them, I ended up going to the local big box auto parts store and getting the "correct" tool to screw them back into the bore. They had the tool on there 'loan a tool' thingie.

John
 
The tool C Clamp

The tools is a "C" clamp where I grind one of the extremity to be able to apply pressure on the plunger.


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Aha, niiiiiiiice one Yves.........!!

Yves said:
......The tools is a "C" clamp where I grind one of the extremity to be able to apply pressure on the plunger.......
Click to expand...

..........a very good trick there, mate!! :worship:
That looks like it's just the thing for that b.....d of a job, particularly when you are attempting to do it on your own!! What a pity we weren't born with 3 arms and hands! :grin:

cheers, Ian - NZ
 
I've found...

Usually e-brake bits can be left alone.
If rubber cover for the bits isn't damaged,
OE grease is packed in well and bits are usually like new.
It's the hydraulics that always need refurb.

One aspect of caliper refurb seldom mentioned,
but critical, is proper cleaning of piston seal groove.
Amazing how much schmeg accumulates behind seal.
Which causes excess seal pressure against piston.

I've also found freshly cleaned front caliper seal grooves
seem less prone to locking up when dynamiting the brakes.

Need small, bent probe to scrape inside.
Old screwdriver with bent tip for example.
Also need toothbrush-size fine wire brush
with only two rows of bristles to really clean the groove.
 
The clean up

First I clean up with solvant and hands brush.
Second, bench wire brushes for all exterior parts also the spring washers, brake arms, etc,.

For the plunger and piston I replaced the wire brushes by a polishing pad with polishing paste.

For the cylinder interior I polished with a 3 pumices stone spring loaded on a 12 volts battery drill.:dance2:
 
AMEN Mike... I usually use...

Scotchbrite pads to scour the bore and also clean up the piston.

Then plenty of brake fluid to lube and insure the piston moves freely BEFORE I attempt to replace the seals and O-ring.
 
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