RED X19

Janis said:
Made M14 thread in radiator for bleeder, long enough to survive, I hope :D
And got some another set of temporary wheels 15” 195/50
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Just my opinion but I think you should make those wheels permanent.
Looks like you can have a very wide honeycomb grill there. Lots of space for s W2A heat exchanger as well😉.
 
Bjorn Nilson said:
Looking good. Are you going for vents through the frunk (Lotus style)? Please say yes🏁🏎️😉
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I was just reading another forums about ducting exhaust air from radiator into wheel wells, I might do both, because that angle of radiator points exactly where holes in the bonnet are usually made.
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Originally I was going to use one of the heater hose ports - on the head. My heater lines are being rerouted so I won't need that port.

But I was convinced it would be better to use a source from the side of the block, where the internal water jackets are at the bottom of the cylinders. The reason is to allow a better cycle of the cool vs hot water; starting from below the turbo (out of the side of the block), going upward into the turbo, then from the turbo going upward more into the coolant recovery tank. The logic being the cool to hot temperature difference of the water (before and after the turbo) will want to travel upward, so after the engine is shut off that flow will continue on its own due to the temperature difference cycling (I think the effect is called something like "siphoning"). That helps to cool the turbo after shut down and lessen coking of the oil. I don't know for sure how well this works but that is how the Uno Turbo does it, for the same reason.

On my US smog regulation spec block there is a small hole through the block at almost the exact same place as the UT has one for the turbo feed. The US engine uses it to cool a pollution control device. I drilled it out and tapped it for a fitting to connect to the turbo water feed. But a hole could be added to any block if there isn't one.

I know the ideal solution would be to use a electric pump with its own dedicated coolant circuit to feed the turbo. Then it can be connected to a electronic controller to make it run for a period after engine shut down, to cool the turbo. But I decided not to add the extra complexity and components to go that direction.
 
The ideal if not using a separate entire cooling system would be to tee a line from the return line from the radiator to a small electric pump and then to the turbo, then a line from then turbo teed into the radiator return hot side. This will give the coolest coolant and return it to the flow with rest of the hot coolant.

Using a small intercooler pump used by Ford, VW, Mercedes and others would be more than sufficient.
 
I assume you do not have the outlet like on the UT engine (green). But you can do it almost the same. Make an inlet to the turbo from the blue area. The cooling liquid always flows through that hose/pipe as required. Return line should be high up on expansion tank (red) to permit the siphon effect when engine is turned off but still hot.
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Bjorn Nilson said:
I assume you do not have the outlet like on the UT engine (green). But you can do it almost the same. Make an inlet to the turbo from the blue area. The cooling liquid always flows through that hose/pipe as required. Return line should be high up on expansion tank (red) to permit the siphon effect when engine is turned off but still hot.
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That blue circle is sketchy for feeding turbo. Arrow means direction of fluid not is it pushing or sucking. I assume it would suck in opposite direction while running.
Good candidate to make outlet for turbo feed could be a plate at engine’s gearbox side.
But I should have add a outlet before engine is in 😬 drilling now wouldn’t be a smart idea
 
Janis said:
But I should have add a outlet before engine is in 😬 drilling now wouldn’t be a smart idea
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I am sure the blue side is flowing/pushing regardless of water temp. Another option is drilling a hole in the freezer plug near the gearbox. That would be even more close to UT.
 
From what I understand (which may not completely accurate), if you want to utilize the "siphon" effect to provide after-run cooling, then the feed source should be as low as possible (compared to the turbo's location) and the return location as high as possible. That is why the UT feeds from #9 on that diagram...it is the lowest point in the water jackets and below the turbo.
 
Was few minutes from starting the engine, but am a bit frighted :D better check everything again tomorrow with clear head.
Modified feeding pipe for pump, I think flow is going to be good.
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It’s running. Engine is running, haven’t made a test drive yet 😬😅 hope that gearbox is ok
Punto starter motor with gear doesn’t make anymore weird noise, maybe aligned itself better.

Does anyone know stock x19 capacity of coolant fluid?
 
Janis said:
It’s running. Engine is running, haven’t made a test drive yet 😬😅 hope that gearbox is ok
Punto starter motor with gear doesn’t make anymore weird noise, maybe aligned itself better.

Does anyone know stock x19 capacity of coolant fluid?
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I have a note of the coolant capacity of my UK 1500 being 6.5 litres.
 
Janis said:
I have filled ~9l already and need more :D
*or maybe those cans were 4l each -in that case ~7l
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The more capacity of coolant you have, the greater the heat dissipation potential for the system. One of the few areas where bigger is better (to an extent). ;)
 
11-12 liters in coolant system :D

Gearbox works, at least 1st 2nd and reverse haven’t tried others yet.

Alternator isn’t working again. :(
 
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