RED X19

Actually it's unfortunate that we are so laxed when it comes to safety inspections. Many states don't have any inspection at all. And others don't look for some basic items that really are important. Don't get me wrong, many of my custom car builds are not safe and would not pass a proper inspection. But that's because I know I can get away with it. The real offenders - and most danger to other motorists - are the ones I'm thinking of. You should see what is on the local roads here, it is very bad.
 
Even inspected cars can be a hazard. I had a wheel come off my 124 sedan on a highway ramp once (my fault) and on a Feakout drive Bruce of the old Bruce's Parts Bin fame, had a ball joint fail and almost send him into a ditch.

Virginia has no inspection for cars with vintage plates (all my Fiats) and it's kind of scary that my X is completely built by me!
 
Even inspected cars can be a hazard. I had a wheel come off my 124 sedan on a highway ramp once (my fault) and on a Feakout drive Bruce of the old Bruce's Parts Bin fame, had a ball joint fail and almost send him into a ditch.

Virginia has no inspection for cars with vintage plates (all my Fiats) and it's kind of scary that my X is completely built by me!
I know a telephone pole totally in agreement with you. ;)
 
I am a little bit jealous about your inspection rules over there that seems to be quite relaxed. In Sweden the first inspection of a new car is mandatory after 36 month. Second inspection is 24 month after that. Then the car must be inspected every 14 month. Cars older than 25 years are inspected every 24 month (the X falls into that category). Cars 50 years or older have a final inspection that lasts forever.

1970 and forward, it was impossible to build or rebuild a car here as all new vehicles was mandatory crash tested. That even included the so called EPA-tractors. But since 1982 we have new rules (thank God) and a specific organisation was created to inspect builds by enthusiasts during the build process. They inspect build milestones, design etc to ensure a roadworthy vehicle when finished, The car hobby is booming here, most likely because of this.
 
I am a little bit jealous about your inspection rules over there that seems to be quite relaxed. In Sweden the first inspection of a new car is mandatory after 36 month. Second inspection is 24 month after that. Then the car must be inspected every 14 month. Cars older than 25 years are inspected every 24 month (the X falls into that category). Cars 50 years or older have a final inspection that lasts forever.

1970 and forward, it was impossible to build or rebuild a car here as all new vehicles was mandatory crash tested. That even included the so called EPA-tractors. But since 1982 we have new rules (thank God) and a specific organisation was created to inspect builds by enthusiasts during the build process. They inspect build milestones, design etc to ensure a roadworthy vehicle when finished, The car hobby is booming here, most likely because of this.
On a related note, we are currently in the process of getting new federal regulations to allow the manufacture of "new" vehicles, but without some of the usual stringent requirements for crash testing, safety features, emissions testing, etc. It is aimed at aftermarket companies building what might typically be called "kit cars". Meaning specialty cars built for hobby use. It only applies to companies that build under a specified (limited) number of vehicles per year (off hand I don't recall the number). And it allows them to get a vehicle identification number for registration purposes without a lot of the usual hassles.
 
Mr. Forest, it was a defective driver, nothing wrong with that X.

I wonder if DOT has data on how many accidents were caused by defective bits on the car as opposed to driver error?

When I first built my previous X it was built as a super stripper. No heater, no headlights, no wipers, no turn signals etc. But it did have brake lights and everything mechanical was in good order. I don't drive at night and I did have to check the weather for rain before heading out in it!
 
Mr. Forest, it was a defective driver, nothing wrong with that X.

I wonder if DOT has data on how many accidents were caused by defective bits on the car as opposed to driver error?

When I first built my previous X it was built as a super stripper. No heater, no headlights, no wipers, no turn signals etc. But it did have brake lights and everything mechanical was in good order. I don't drive at night and I did have to check the weather for rain before heading out in it!
Yup Mr Friedman, maybe you are better at building car but defective with humans... 🤪
 
Last edited:
You need to hire me so I can move to US :D

Bought few new tools just for joy today.
Multimeter, 1/2 breaker bar with ratchet and 1/4 breaker bar, they look excellent and price was 23€ and 3€ for bars.

*for 10 years haven’t broken any of their tools, this is review not an add

40F6F3EB-B230-4CBF-ABC1-410D824CED07.jpeg
 
Rerouted heater pipes, this time using a one piece rubber hose.
Rerouted a little more esthetic fuel hoses.
Next one on the list is intercooler piping, also will use IC that is for 1/3 bigger than UT original one.
After that will try to reroute esthetically radiator pipes/hoses, to avoid modify that again.

Installed valve for heater, otherwise it was too hot inside in the summer :D.

Wheels fit excellent, original spacer on front and two on each rear wheel.

Have I connected boost solenoid correctly?
22AF506F-E1B5-4845-BCBB-31E2B439D044.jpeg
F514B0B9-7C7E-4B34-939A-79A5C412473B.jpeg
924AE72C-5F79-41F7-A2DB-5705B2BAE731.jpeg
1865DB6C-8D69-4C2E-95D9-9D62607D2DC3.jpeg
553D68DD-761B-4C7F-A86E-405D13F166EB.jpeg
1097B2E9-586E-4D7A-81C5-B934F7A05B1C.jpeg
4B66620F-D8DA-457B-AE58-3BC7AD1DF114.jpeg
26D00704-5660-44B6-B36D-25A9863B96AF.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Have I connected boost solenoid correctly?
As far as where it is located between the ports on the turbo (yellow arrows), yes that's correct.

As far as the ports on that particular solenoid (blue arrows), I can't say - I'm not familiar with that solenoid. So long as those two ports open and close with the electrical signal, and that signal is oriented correctly with the ECU, then it is good. So you can test all three ports to see what each does as the solenoid is activated and deactivated.

553D68DD-761B-4C7F-A86E-405D13F166EB.jpg
 
Unused one stays unused because that is how electrician installed it.
I am not sure about yellow ones.

it is same as in photo
E8FC5DF9-C044-4B08-A86B-87FE0C798F47.png
 
I am not sure about yellow ones.
They are fine. Without boost control these is just a short hose connecting the two yellow ports directly. The solenoid is placed in between them to control the airflow across those ports. So it does not matter which hose you put on which yellow port, the solenoid just opens and closes that hose between those ports...it isn't directional.
 
Caught cold last week, so car is still not running.
Made ends for intercooler from some iron tube and sheets. Came out better than expected. Fits excellent.
Will modify bottom tube with two extra bends so only one 90 degree silicone elbow is needed to attatch it to turbo.
CCD33183-4D94-4D36-97A4-E3302BB2C5F5.jpeg
0BD55DC0-C28D-44AC-B255-5DD5C867E33C.jpeg
666D8431-8C37-4D98-A160-32A207C32AC5.jpeg
E832188B-40B1-449F-AFC0-A3998558D1EC.jpeg
8A607FA4-BFC9-4E0B-B07F-84F58EEF50D7.jpeg
C1EA8EC0-4805-4B09-A0A9-328C884526D3.jpeg
6BAD279B-C3F6-485A-92B9-8B3B1C323FA2.jpeg
AC968E7E-00D0-4FBF-8957-166B0A02CABC.jpeg
 
Really nice job on the intercooler ends! Those are not easy to do without leaks. And that intercooler fits the space perfectly now.

At first I intended that mine would fit the same area but laying flat (horizontal) toward the top. However it turned out to be too big to fit down into the space so I mounted it above that area. Therefore I need to make a custom engine cover that extends up a bit higher. This is a early mock-up pic; now it is lower but still above where I wanted it to be:
015 - Copy.JPG


Keep in mind the turbo is attached to the engine and the engine moves around. But the intercooler is attached to the body that does not move. Therefore the silicone hoses between the turbo and intercooler need to allow for the difference in movement. ;)
 
Again new place for expansion tank.
And also will put back floor for rear trunk and wall between engine bay and trunk. Also make two bonnets instead of one-piece part.
EF2CB030-FD5D-4473-BBC5-13AB91DF876F.jpeg
 
Looks a bit stupid place for expansion tank, but I run out of available place.
On the oposite (right) side will be air filter box.

Should I duct intake manifolds cooling fan through the bonnet or through intercooler?
3C584306-77D6-4B0A-82B5-B13DF2F997A7.jpeg
5A0A0E01-9085-48A0-9495-E2D5A0859B22.jpeg
0A1F0918-D064-4615-B711-85574414BEEB.jpeg
 
Make sure the coolant bottle won't block airflow to the intercooler if placed where you pictured it.

Ducting the manifold fan through the intercooler will help the intercooler's efficiency. But that will also introduce warm/hot air into the manifold....which sort of negates the function of the intercooler. I guess it depends on which is more critical and what the actual temps are for each. Maybe start by not ducting the fan yet. Then after it is running see if you can measure the temp around the areas (intercooler, manifold, etc). But my instinct is to duct the fan through the bonnet.

Very nice layout and great job putting it all together. Looks good!

Ha-ha, nice turbo! :p
85574414BEEB.jpg
 
Back
Top