remote trunk release

no power on those with ignition off (dark blue with red tracer, light blue with white tracer).
The injector cooling fan is tempting source as there is 12v going to the temp sensor (with the engine off) could run that through engine bay to trunk. Downside: can't use release when engine is running (or is that a good safety feature?). I can see picking up a kid, they walk to the back and pop the trunk themselves (while I wait in car with engine running). So I don't like that much. Guess I'll see where the other end of the above wires goes and put unswitched 12v an one to feed the release motor.
Anyone know where? Wiring diagrams I have are useless. Power antennae and it's motor are separate? (if installed, not in my case) violet wire triggers it all but it changes color, goes to on inline fuse that isn't wired to anything? Hmmmm Where the heck is C25 in there anyway?
 
Bummer

no power on those with ignition off (dark blue with red tracer, light blue with white tracer).
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On my '85 there is a LT BLU / RED wire that is always live.

I agree the wiring diagrams you referenced are a bit cryptic. I have a set issued by IAI (the US importer of Bertone). It is from '83 and references the old style fuse box, but 99% of it applies to my '85 (new style fuse box). You would probably find it to be a good reference for your '81 as well. The book has wiring diagrams, circuit descriptions, photos of component locations, list of component locations etc. It says C25 is above the fuse box and has 12 cavities.

The book has 67 numbered pages + title page, table of contents etc. I bought this on eBay two years a go (photo-copy of the original). I think I have seen it on Midwest-Bayless, but I can't find it there now.

Title page:
Wiring_diagrams_title.gif


Table of contents:
Wiring_diagrams_content.gif
 
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I'll have to try to find a copy.
What's that line for I wonder. Power to the antennae motor so it can operate regardless of key posistion? So antennae retracts when car shut down?
 
Easy peasy...

Just find the other end of that wire in the fuse area and connect it to fused power. Other options for a constant power source include the starter and alternator terminals (30).

This is how I wired up my amplified antenna, but I connected it to the switched power of the deck rather than fused power. The other wire is commandeered for the rear foglight. I think on my car, the other ends of the antenna power wires came out in the console, originally the cars (or at least the late models) were wired for a antenna switch.
 
So antennae retracts when car shut down?
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Yes. The constant 12V is what powers the antenna motor, the other wire is the extend / retract trigger wire. You want the motor to have constant power so that it will retract after you turn off the ignition.
 
My '85 had provisions for a switch in the factory harness. I bought and installed the switch (plugged right into the factory plug), but I have not installed a motorized antenna yet. Two wires come out by the antenna, LT BLU/RED that is always hot, and BLU/RED that is switched by the switch in the console. The latter is independent of the ignition switch, so one could raise and lower the antenna with ignition on or off.
 
Where in dash would this switch be? I can see the suspect wires heading up into the dash, starting taking the center console apart but not sure how that comes apart so quit. I was thinking while I'm in there I could rig up a momentary switch of OEM type (not sure what to use, maybe a window switch?) in the dash for in-cockpit trunk release. So I could trigger the rear trunk from sitt'n in the car, or from outside. Hey, it's a pet project.:wacko:

BTW '81 has light blue/white dark blue/red
 
I put 12v on the connector above the fuses, sending power to the trunk that route. Little concerned how many amps that motor draws, not even sure if this is a fused circuit now or not, but I'll put a fuse right before the motor anyway.
 
I stuck one of these on my Mazda, similar to the one RacerX showed in his post. I got it from Moss, it bolted right in... came with a little momentary 'on' switch to complete the circuit... Ran it right off the battery a foot and a half away so finding a 'live wire' for power was easy.

But like Chris said, the final adjustments were a pain. It either didn't want to pop open every 2nd or 3rd try, like the cable was too loose... or it seemed there was enough tension on the wire that it would pop open when you slammed the deck closed. :censored:

My trunks key lock is wonky so it is super frustrating when the electric release gets out of wack.
 
Bought fish scale

I pulled the trunk release cable of my '86 X with a really cheap fish scale. I measured approximately 7 kg (15.4 lb), which translates to a force of about 70 N. The measurements were repeatable down to about +/- 10%.

I would probably add at least 50% to my readings when looking for a solenoid or similar.

Past performance is no guarantee of future results. Individual results may vary.
 
Thanks for that. I won one off ebay weeks ago but the seller flaked out, never got it. I've watched some come and go, looked at several Fiero ones, might try one or wait for the kit to pop up uber cheap. I've taken to just leaving it unlatched a lot which is alright too. Many sellers claim 15lb pull and say they are better than the weaker ones so I guess 15 is the standard to shoot for.
 
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