Rusted Rear end

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User1

RETIRED Admin, pm OFF
<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD colSpan=2><TABLE width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-TOP: 4px" vAlign=top colSpan=2>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Rusted Rear end<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]March 11 2000 at 11:30 AM[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "L";n54_em = n54_em + "N";n54_em = n54_em + "M";n54_em = n54_em + "P";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "o";n54_em = n54_em + "l";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + "o";n54_em = n54_em + "m"; document.write("Kyle"); // --> </SCRIPT>Kyle <NOSCRIPT></NOSCRIPT> [/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=bottom colSpan=3><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD colSpan=3>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I just looked at an "86" that had 14k miles and has been sitting out side for 10 years. The inside of the front tub looks good, floors are in good shape, strut towers are in good shape,it has rust in the rear. The ends of the quarters are missing, the rear crossmember appears to be solid. My question is how do you fix the rear, do you fabricate panels or are new ones available. Whats the best way to turn the engine over.
Cheers,
Kyle<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->calling Doc or MM...<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]March 12 2000, 9:46 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->These guys have the bodywork experience that I do not. I know that some replacement panels are available, but few & far between. Some are available through US vendors (check the 'vendor links' section of the SeaX linkpage) and some more panels are reproduced overseas in Europe...

However, I would think that you could repair the existing panels yourself if you are willing to try your hand at bodywork. Where are those bodymen when we need 'em??
wink.gif
-Mac.
<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->What about turning it over?<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]March 12 2000, 4:17 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->The oil is clear and gold, so I think that just pulling the pugs and WD40 in the cylinders might be enough. Has anybody had any experience with rings seizing or breaking? I might be able to get the car for $900 does this sound fair? <!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Ulix[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Misc<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]March 12 2000, 8:59 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Kyle,

Is the engine seized up?
If not, yes, you could dump a little oil down the spark plug holes.
While the oil may be clean, it is old. That is just as bad. Non-synthetic oil will age considerably in a year, let alone 10. So you should change it.

If you want to turn the engine over for a while to distribute the oil, you could diconnect the coil wire at the distributor and ground it to the engine block (necessary for elec ign). That would keep it from starting.

Make sure the crossmember in front of the engine is sound. On really rusty Xs, this is a big problem because the suspension connects to it. So check it from the top rear and bottom.

Ulix <!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Is there a Dr. in the house?<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]March 13 2000, 9:07 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Kyle -

I'll defer to Ulix on the mechanicals (but do know how to crank the engine by hand).

As far as the body goes... what part are you talking about when you say "back" do you mean the fender wells? These are a bitch to fix, as there is little access for a welding gun, so I haven't bothered with mine.

If you mean the ventilation panel, it is in a few pieces... the vented part itself comes out (but is hard to access without a lift (or you can cut out the trunk floor like I did!). The surround is part of the body, and easy enough to fix.

I think you have my number from the e-mails we have exchanged... I'll help you with that part if you will give me a hand (read - I have no idea what I am doing, but will assist as necessary) with changing the brake lines, rotors, and pads.

Doc<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Ends of quarters are missing?<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]March 13 2000, 10:19 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Well, since Mac asked, I'll add what I can. When you say, "the ends of the quarters are missing", that sounds like the rear lowermost area behind the rear wheels.

If the steel is completely gone, all I can suggest is welding in replacement steel. Not sure if it's available new, but Kevin Schooler on this forum has a bunch of sheet metal, maybe he can help. This would only be needed for compound curves, anything else and you can just fab flat or single curve panels out of sheet metal. I once fabricated a patch panel for a 356 Porsche from a chunk of Ford pickup fender.

I can't imagine the rust extending much above the area where the corner flooring is semi seam sealed to the outer sheetmetal. Dig all that gunk out of there, trim the cancerous area as best you can (metal nibbler? sabre saw? cutoff wheel?), and weld in the new piece. I've used ox/ac torch with 000 tip to carfully tack in place, using minumum heat and alternating tack spots. Do not seam weld or it'll be warpcity. Of course, Mig is much nicer if available...

If there is some metal left, you may get by with less triming, and maybe can weld in a fabricated patch panel or two. A little sandblaster is very helpful for removing localized rust and cleaning up weld scuz. Then treat with Rustmort, or similar, PPG DP epoxy primer to seal, then call up our buddy, Armondo Bondo, to finish it off. I also like the Rustmort since it flows nicely into all the seams where rust hides. After applying primer/sealer, you need to re-seal the OEM seams, and the backside of any you created with the patch panel.

Feel free to ask if anything isn't clear. This aspect of restoring cars is really pretty simple, nothing like the rocket science of tuning Webers.

Mike<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->That was exactly what I mean!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]March 14 2000, 9:38 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thanks Mike,
If I do end up with this one, I'm sure I'll be asking some more.
Cheers,
Kyle <!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Yo Mickie! You welda my fenda, I a tuna your Weba, eh!?<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]March 14 2000, 10:18 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Capice?!

Don Ulicsiose
anoffer@yacantrefuse.it<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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