Rusty Carburetor, best way to clean it ?

Chromaphase

True Classic
Hi guys, (Bertone 1985 Carb 34 DATR 1500)

So I had my bertone for almost a year now and Im still struggling with it. It hasnt worked well for more than 100km.
Cleaned the carb multiple times now. For these that remember me I had a lot of issues, solved them one by one as I could.

After getting my main jet dirty, I put two filters (one before the mechanical pump, one after)
However I still find some stuff in the jet from time to time and the idle circuit is not working anymore as well.

So I decided to take the carb off and do a deep cleaning with carb cleaner spray.
This is how it looks inside. If I use my finger on this surface I can see some small specks getting off. It does look good at all.

I have found different methods online but what would be your recommendations ?

1- How to get this clean and working good
2- Is it even salvageable ?

Thank you !

(rest of the carb is fine, I changed the pump recently, everything else is clean)
 

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Not sure what is available outside the US, but if you can find a submersible cleaner it should take care of the problem. Carb spray works for some things, but it is momentary in nature due to almost immediate evaporation. A good soak is an efficient way to attack the stubborn, hard to reach problem areas.

 
I've had good luck with an ultrasonic cleaner and Dawn detergent. Did a couple of SUs that were stuck but good. Took a while, but they came clean with heat and vibration.


I'm going to try the combination of utlra sonic and parts dip on the really nasty X carb. We'll see if it can be saved!
 
If I was getting to the point of considering another carb (not that an exact same new one would be available in any case), then I'd invest in an ultrasonic cleaner too instead for half the price. There's lots available, just make sure you can fully submerge the disassembled Weber body in the basket, maybe 5 or 6 litres?

I wouldn't have a filter before the mechanical pump as that could cause an extra struggle for the pump on start up.
 
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I have a mocal coarse 120 micron filter before my primer pump, which is an electronic carb fuel pump and no problems with that at all.

Back when I lived in London, think automotive where nice and close and that is where I got a bunch on my generic stuff. It cost a bit more than a generic filter but its cleanable stainless steel filter in an aluminium housing.

As far as I know it shouldn't be a problem as long as the filter is cleaned/changed regularly.
 
I also vote ultrasonic cleaning. If you don't want to invest in one then look for a local service offering it. I use harsh solvents in mine because I'm too impatient to wait for conservative cleaners to work. :p

If you are still finding debris in the carb after installing a new filter then perhaps the filters you are using are not good enough. Look for a quality aftermarket item with a finer micron rating. However the fuel tank may be your real issue. All the filters in the world are not a good substitute for a properly cleaned tank.

Reminds me of some of those TV shows where they attempt to start a engine after its been sitting for years. I would never try to turn over a engine without a lot of proper preparation first. But the point here is how they place a couple of those cheap clear plastic filters in a row to try and collect the rust. Then seemed dumbfounded when it dies a few minutes later. :D
 
I've had good luck with an ultrasonic cleaner and Dawn detergent. Did a couple of SUs that were stuck but good. Took a while, but they came clean with heat and vibration.


I'm going to try the combination of utlra sonic and parts dip on the really nasty X carb. We'll see if it can be saved!

Ok Thanks I will look into it !
So you also mean I dont need fancy chemicals ? Just Soap ?

I have seen many talking about vinegar but as I understand it, it aint good for Zinc...
I have baking soda, do you think it would be better baking soda or soap ?

For some reasons good carb cleaner bath product are rare where I live (France)

Thanks !
 
Also if you have not already, strong suggest changing the fuel lines for good quality new ones.

Not just for safety but they can disintegrate internally and leave small rubber bits to block your carb

The fuel lines have been changed recently. I have to note that I chaged and added new filters after the clogging of my jets.
So I had a lot of gunks in my carb already. As you can see on the photos all this is getting in the idle and primary circuit.
Im going to try the soap. I already brushed off a lot of the rust with tooth brush and plastic tools. Looks way better now.

I will check for local shop with ultrasonic, Im not really a mechanic expert and I dont even have a garage or workshop...

Thanks !
 
Ultrasonic cleaners are great tools. I have used them to clean all sorts of things. Never had one big enough to put a complete carb in but should be good if you can find one.
 
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Dish soap and hot water actually works pretty good. It just takes more time. Maybe a couple of hours. The cheap harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner has heat too, which helps.

Like Dr Jeff says - I'm going to ramp up my intensity for the next project and use some solvent. :)
 
I don't have good luck with soap as a cleaning agent. But it is worth trying. I prefer solvents. Gasoline (petrol) is a good cleaner, easy/cheap to get, and won't harm the carb obviously.
 
After getting my main jet dirty, I put two filters (one before the mechanical pump, one after)
However I still find some stuff in the jet from time to time and the idle circuit is not working anymore as well.
I would have another look at those filters. I reckon your tank is full of crud and some is getting thru them.
 
I would have another look at those filters. I reckon your tank is full of crud and some is getting thru them.
Do you think the rusty deposit is from my gas tank ?
When adjusting the floater last time a literal *bug* went inside the carb, found him dead inside later inside the carb blocking the jet.
Like a tiny insect...

I just did a wash with soap and also a bit of backing soda I think its quite clean now but something still bother me.
You see the pipe * 20 * on this diagram ?

How can I make sure its free ? I took of the mixture screw (19) but if I blow in it obviously its going to the the exit in front of it (18), not toward the idle jet.

its the last thing I need to make sure before putting bvack the carb on the X.

(My two filters are real clean by the way, I think the tank is fine. Also if I compare with my Lancia Gamma, which has disgusting filter full of gunk (dont worry its the first filter near the tank, other one near the carb is ok) and the carb of my gamma is real dirty and never ever cleaned.

Yet it works perfectly. So if Im just wondering if this 34 DATR is doomed, easily corrupted or something.
What your experience with this carb ? Obviosuly on this forunm we often see posts about it with its many problems but maybe the majority of X owners would never have any problem with this carb ?

Thanks
 

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Hi everyone,
After a deep cleaning, it seems to work all well now.
Im going to test it bit by bit and see from there.

In the meantime I checked some possible replacement for the 34 DATR but its really out of my budget so i hope this deep cleaning will be enough,
Thanks for your help !
 
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