Seattle CL find: 14x8 ET0 diamond racing wheels (4x100) with 195/45/14 toyos

AleX1/9

AleX1/9

Has the sickness
(Not affiliated)

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/2818705895.html

I know they're wide, but with some wobbly bolts, hub centering rings,coilovers (for spring perch rub), and fender rolling (realistically flares)...would be sweet on an X!

These proxes tires are nicer than any 13" now available in the states and fit VERY well on an X. txted the seller he's askin $650

Speaking of, here's another set for cheap:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/2827137200.html

also 4x100 wheels but likely wrong offset...would work with spacer adapters though (if you like the rim style :dead:) for $250obo though it'd be worth it just for the tires if they're in good shape and you work a deal. I know some of you guys over there are rockin the maserati 14's
 
4x100 wheels

I've wondered about the possibility of mounting any of the readily available '4x100' wheels by using 'wobbly bolts' along with hub-centric rings. My instinct tells me it is not a good idea. Plus the rings would have to be custom made to match the wheel to the hub. Anybody know more about it?
Thanks.
 
I run wobble nuts on the Scorpion...

Absolutely no problems in 3 years. Long studs (80mm iirc) pass through spacer plates that correct the offset and provide hub-centricity.

Wheelspacers.jpg


The wheels are some no-name aftermarket 5-spokes, probably intended for the Honda market.

DSCF0081.jpg


Pete
 
Wobble Bolts

Yes, bought a set. Cost me about $90. Not happy with them. The metal on the ones I got are very soft and I stripped several of them.

So I a have a mixture of wobble bolts and stock bolts.

I am running 4x100 Chromodora Daytonas (Magnesium) on my X1/9. I was infromed that I can use the stock bolts on the 4x100 as well, just have to be careful that I mount the wheels just right.

I will go back to all stock when I replace my strut mounts.
 
I just read a thread where Chris Obert admitted to mounting 4x100 wheels on a 4x98 car using stock wheel bolts "more times than he cared to admit"... I don't see why it would be a problem as long as good hardware is used and hub centric rings would definitely help
 
The guy who had those rims before me...

AleX1/9 said:
I just read a thread where Chris Obert admitted to mounting 4x100 wheels on a 4x98 car using stock wheel bolts "more times than he cared to admit"... I don't see why it would be a problem as long as good hardware is used and hub centric rings would definitely help
Click to expand...

Thought they were 4x98 and was running them on 4x98 hubs on his Spider (124?)

He sold them to me as 4x98 but after I got them and did some measurement, I realized they were 4x100. No big deal to me, it just meant I used the wobble nuts instead of regular nuts.

As I recall from Oberts posts, he even raced like that. Not something I would likely try, but apparently the 1mm distortion is not enough to worry about.

Pete
 
I also asked about wobble bolts...

in a racing forum and for street use, on a car you remove wheels once a year, wobble bolts or nuts may work fine. But It is not recommended for an autocross car where you would remove the wheels twice every week-end.

4x100 wheels may work fine. But after a few year you may have to rethread the hub. Don't ask me how i know!

Daniel Forest
Montreal
 
Stock bolts on 4x100

A couple of you have mentioned the use of stock lug bolts to mount 4x100 wheels on the stock 4x98 hubs. Are you referring to over-sized holes in the wheels to allow for the difference, or to fitting the bolts at an "angle" and 'wedge' or 'jam' them into the hubs (not sure how to describe that)? If it is the second method, seems like that would cross-thread the bolts and lead to stripped holes.
As for the wobble bolts, am I correct in assuming that some type of hub-centric fit would be necessary to center the wheels properly on the hubs? Otherwise, it seems the 'wobble' in the bolts would lead to a random alignment and off-center mounting, and therefore a run-out issue...feeling like out of balance tires.

Pete, I did not know that "wobble nuts" existed, only "wobble bolts".
 
Thanks Pete,

That makes more sense, the holes being large enough to allow clearance. I was hoping no one here would try to 'force' them in at an angle. But I would still think a problem could exist with getting them centered properly without some sort of hub centric device?

Pete, out of curiosity, with a set-up like yours (wheels/spacers/studs/wobble nuts), would it be a viable option to go with 'adapters' instead of spacers and wobbles? What would be the pro's/con's of the two approaches? Not questioning your system, it clearly works well, I'm just thinking out loud.
Thanks again.
 
I think either approach is equally valid...

Dr.Jeff said:
That makes more sense, the holes being large enough to allow clearance. I was hoping no one here would try to 'force' them in at an angle. But I would still think a problem could exist with getting them centered properly without some sort of hub centric device?

Pete, out of curiosity, with a set-up like yours (wheels/spacers/studs/wobble nuts), would it be a viable option to go with 'adapters' instead of spacers and wobbles? What would be the pro's/con's of the two approaches? Not questioning your system, it clearly works well, I'm just thinking out loud.
Thanks again.
Click to expand...

And yes, engineering in hub-centricity is key.

When I made the spacers for the Scorpion, I had more time than money, so I turned them myself on a lathe.

When it came time for the X to get new wheels, I had more money than time, so I had adapters made.

Time and money were really the only two considerations I put into it. Spacers are relatively easy to make yourself, provided you have access to a lathe. If you are going to have spacers made for you, then it's not much more to get them turned into spacer/adapters. So if you are farming out the work, my advice would be to go with adapters.

Pete
 
Thanks Pete,

Pete, thanks for your responses here and on the related thread in the "Workshop" forum ("The 15" wheel & tire thread").

I think it might be best to continue any further discussion of this on the other thread...it's in a better forum for this topic.

By the way Pete, I really like both of your cars in the photos on the 'workshop' thread.
 
I run 4x100 wheels with regular bolts and it's fine. Some people had problems with cracking but main reason is the wheels didn't have hubcentric rings. Wobble bolts are recommended though.

* Pete Whitstone

You have OZ Fittipaldi wheels.
 
They certainly look like Oz Fittipaldi

a112 said:
You have OZ Fittipaldi wheels.
Click to expand...

And they may be. But I would have thought if they were a big brand name like Oz, that would be stamped in them somewhere. But they have no markings like that.

Pete
 
Yeah, they should be branded around the bolt holes. You may have some replica wheels instead, but design is Fittipaldi for sure.
 
Hmmmm

those wheels look like the BWA's I had on my blue car. If you look closely, it looks like there are 2 sets of holes on them. I know that the BWA's came with 2 sets - one for 4x100 and the other where closer together for 4x98. There's a car out in the parking lot right now with that same config....I'll go snap a pic.
 
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