shift lever throw reducer?

carl

carl

True Classic
Spent Saturday on a club drive with the 124 spider and then took a quick spin in the 128 today. Shift lever throw on the 128 is pretty long compared to my spider .....and most other cars. Anyone modify the shift lever to reduce the throw? I guess sort of like a short shifter but without actually shortening the lever. Geometry of the shifter would mean lengthening the segment under the shifter ball rather than shortening the segment above the ball.

carl
 
I remember one of the guys from Serbia/Croatia had one of these posted here (& on eBay) a while back, along with a few other "go-fast" parts used on the Zastava/Yugo that also work on the 128.

Maybe run a Search for Xweb member 128zfa? :huh:
 
I helped Scott Phelps do one for his Yugo years ago. I made an extension for the bottom of the shifter (to weld in place of the plastic socket) and then he made an equivalent height spacer to put under the ball pivot mount and shortened the upper part of the lever. With the early type shift lever you have its probably all cut and weld to get your ratio, and shim the pivot to make up the height.
 
reducer

I have done this on my 74. I cut and welded a 25mm extension in the shaft
below the pivot ball. And made a 25mm packer that went between the floor and the shifter plate. This makes for a very comfortable slick and tight shift pattern.
 
shifter

Thanks guys for confirming my thoughts on the matter. Must admit I did not think about a spacer to move the shifter up.

Sounds like a simple winter type project.

carl
 
X shifter?

Since we are on the topic, has anyone tried using an X shifter in a 128? I'm assuming the shifter stalk would put the shift knob too low for a 128.

Also, I have both type 128 shifters, the type where the longitudinal rod connects to the shifter with a fixed offset pin and the type where the longitudinal rod connects to the shfiter via a clevis joint and an inserted pin. Looks like the clevis type is better?
 
Yeah, the clevis type (early-mid years) is better, IMO. More secure joint and the bushings can be replaced. I backdated my Rally to that type and made my own delrin bushings (probably overkill).
 
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