Show me some power

I hear ya Larry...

And I can't argue with a dyno... but I challange YOU!

Pick out a course... swap the filters, and then take them off entirely AFTER you perform a base run. Then reverse the process... then YOU tell us.

(Not to start another argument... but many folks like to run those small square, chrome filters that Vicks and IAP sells a lot of. I remember taking the TOP off one and then running around the block... pointed this out to several folks that owned these... and they all eventually removed them. There apparently is NOT enough surface area, or the air is NOT allowed flow easily and make the turn DOWN the carb's throat.)

I DO know THIS THOUGH... K&Ns have convinced me, Mr Frugal, that no matter what type of car I'm driving, I will replace the stock filter with one of theirs and also fabricate a "fresh air" inlet. I feel and smell and know there is a difference enough to force the money out between my tightly clenched fingers. I can't say this for most other products out there.
 
K&N filters

I DO know THIS THOUGH... K&Ns have convinced me, Mr Frugal, that no matter what type of car I'm driving, I will replace the stock filter with one of theirs and also fabricate a "fresh air" inlet. I feel and smell and know there is a difference enough to force the money out between my tightly clenched fingers. I can't say this for most other products out there.

My Prius gets another half mile per gallon with the K&N, and my Dallara replica race car, which uses a 5 liter Mustang filter, is better all around.

What really convinced me to try the filter is I was at a regional SCCA autocross where K&N provided lunch, and when they asked who ran their filter, I was one of the only ones that didn't. And I got beat.

Chris Obert
 
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