slave clutch hose pipe nut stuck !
- Thread starter phil
- Start date
Dan Sarandrea (Phila)
Waitin' On Parts...
I'd use penetrating oil first, let it soak as long as you can.
Rupunzell
Bernice Loui
The flare nut is knacker. Use a "vise grip" or similar locking pliers on the flare nut to hold it and loosen it while holding the hex on the clutch hose hex end.
Soak the joint in penetrating oil (not WD_40 or Water Displacement, 40th try as it is not really a penetrating oil) well and for a few hours before trying to remove this.
Heat is really a No No here as the possibility of damage is high and cooking the brake fluid and everything related to can turn into a serious problem.
Replace the flare nut once it's all apart. The clutch tube is 1/4" outside diameter and it will be a bubble flare on the end.
Pressure bleed the system once done. There are a number of posting on how to bleed the clutch if you run into problems.
BTW, the clutch adjuster shaft looks to be near the end of it's adjustment. Once the clutch system is working properly, might consider resetting the adjuster towards the center and see if this adjustment setting is acceptable.
Good luck,
Bernice
Soak the joint in penetrating oil (not WD_40 or Water Displacement, 40th try as it is not really a penetrating oil) well and for a few hours before trying to remove this.
Heat is really a No No here as the possibility of damage is high and cooking the brake fluid and everything related to can turn into a serious problem.
Replace the flare nut once it's all apart. The clutch tube is 1/4" outside diameter and it will be a bubble flare on the end.
Pressure bleed the system once done. There are a number of posting on how to bleed the clutch if you run into problems.
BTW, the clutch adjuster shaft looks to be near the end of it's adjustment. Once the clutch system is working properly, might consider resetting the adjuster towards the center and see if this adjustment setting is acceptable.
Good luck,
Bernice
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Do as Bernice suggests...
Make sure the Vice Grip is on there FIRM... and place another wrench on the other fitting on the flex side also.
If it doesn't budge initially, try TIGHTENING it a bit, then loosen.
Any gawling (sp) marks on the flare nut can be filed or ground down easily so a regular flair wrench will work generally from now on.
I'd only try a torch as a last resort...
Make sure the Vice Grip is on there FIRM... and place another wrench on the other fitting on the flex side also.
If it doesn't budge initially, try TIGHTENING it a bit, then loosen.
Any gawling (sp) marks on the flare nut can be filed or ground down easily so a regular flair wrench will work generally from now on.
I'd only try a torch as a last resort...
Dan Sarandrea (Phila)
Waitin' On Parts...
This stuff works like magic, especially in a steel-in-steel fastener situation!
http://www.trizolube.com/TRIZOL_WEBSITE/TPS.html
http://www.trizolube.com/TRIZOL_WEBSITE/TPS.html
PB Blaster. Apply in morning. Apply again in evening. Repeat / wash / rinse for 2 or more days...
THEN, vice grips and line wrench...
THEN, vice grips and line wrench...
One more thing
The only thing that works better than visegrips is visegrips AND a flare wrench - position the flare wrench on the fitting, and then use the grips to force the open end of the flare wrench closed around the fitting. Do this and you won't mangle a good fitting, so won't have to mess with replacing it and reflaring the hard line. OTOH, from the picture it looks as if your fitting is already pretty well-rounded off.
Oh... and... listen to Bernice about not using heat.
The only thing that works better than visegrips is visegrips AND a flare wrench - position the flare wrench on the fitting, and then use the grips to force the open end of the flare wrench closed around the fitting. Do this and you won't mangle a good fitting, so won't have to mess with replacing it and reflaring the hard line. OTOH, from the picture it looks as if your fitting is already pretty well-rounded off.
Oh... and... listen to Bernice about not using heat.
I have used a pinpoint flame
without causing any damage to the hydraulic lines and also saving the nut/flair fitting.
What DID get damaged is the flex hose extension, which is the main reason for removing it.
Cutting the flex hose first removes any danger of the hose bursting under pressure.
Damage to the brake fluid is a non-issue because it's got to be flushed out anyway.
I haven't really heard a valid reason for NOT using heat (heat being a pinpoint flame) to free up the flair nut.
As always, care should be taken. I've done it using pinpoint flame several times with no negative result.
Re-flaring that end can be a real P.I.T.A., and getting the proper flair nut to fit the line can also be the same.
But, if the flair nut is toast, (which it will be using vice grips) maybe cutting the line to
get it all out in the open is your best option. You've got choices.
Good luck!
without causing any damage to the hydraulic lines and also saving the nut/flair fitting.
What DID get damaged is the flex hose extension, which is the main reason for removing it.
Cutting the flex hose first removes any danger of the hose bursting under pressure.
Damage to the brake fluid is a non-issue because it's got to be flushed out anyway.
I haven't really heard a valid reason for NOT using heat (heat being a pinpoint flame) to free up the flair nut.
As always, care should be taken. I've done it using pinpoint flame several times with no negative result.
Re-flaring that end can be a real P.I.T.A., and getting the proper flair nut to fit the line can also be the same.
But, if the flair nut is toast, (which it will be using vice grips) maybe cutting the line to
get it all out in the open is your best option. You've got choices.
Good luck!
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Do what you can to save the flare nut!
It is a PITA to replace, vice grips + flare wrench + liquid wrench + patience (walk away when you get pissed - i wish i did!!)
I demolished the front one and ended up replacing the whole line, Fedhill supplies great lines and flaring tool rental but they don't have the nuts for the clutch line, I had to get those used off Matt.
It is a PITA to replace, vice grips + flare wrench + liquid wrench + patience (walk away when you get pissed - i wish i did!!)
I demolished the front one and ended up replacing the whole line, Fedhill supplies great lines and flaring tool rental but they don't have the nuts for the clutch line, I had to get those used off Matt.
Dan Sarandrea (Phila)
Waitin' On Parts...
When you reassemble, put a teeny dab of anti-seize compound on the nut threads.
Rupunzell
Bernice Loui
Congratulations, We knew you can do it!
Bob's method of using pin point head would work if done carefully and the tube joint not heated for too long. The heat can transfer to the painted bracket and other associated parts causing heat damage. A careful, steady and mindful wrench is required to prevent doing too much damage with heat while penetrating oil and properly applied leverage is more forgiving than heat.
Boiling brake fluid is not an issue as it will all get flushed.
A dab of anti-seize is a very good idea. Copaslip (copper based) or one of the moly based anti seize should work fine and the next time this is done, the individual removing this fitting will thank you.
Bernice
Bob's method of using pin point head would work if done carefully and the tube joint not heated for too long. The heat can transfer to the painted bracket and other associated parts causing heat damage. A careful, steady and mindful wrench is required to prevent doing too much damage with heat while penetrating oil and properly applied leverage is more forgiving than heat.
Boiling brake fluid is not an issue as it will all get flushed.
A dab of anti-seize is a very good idea. Copaslip (copper based) or one of the moly based anti seize should work fine and the next time this is done, the individual removing this fitting will thank you.
Bernice