So what is the preferred oil and filter?

Arizonax19

Arizonax19

True Classic
I run Castrol GTX 10/30 and NAPA filters in both Xes. Thinking of going with a heavier weight when temps get in the 100's, which won't be long. It was 93 today. Anyone ever have any issues with NAPA filters?

T
 
Napa filters are excellent and made by Wix. Use the Silvers because they are cheaper than the Gold and exactly the same apparently.

10w30 is an ILSAC low HTHS oil and not ideal for this application. Use a 0w40, 5w40 or 15w40 for better results. Avoid 10w40 because they tend to be low quality. Try to stick with an oil that meet ACEA A3/B3 specs in whatever weight you decide on.
 
oil

I autox my car and I use Mobil1full synthetic 5w30.if any thing change from conventional to synthetic. changing to higher weight because it's hotter outside doesn't mean it's going to be better for the engine. the best way to tell what viscosity to run is with an oil temp gauge and oil pressure gauge. use the lowest viscosity wail still maintaining the proper oil temp and oil pressure at normal engine operating temp. GRM magazine had an article on the subject and that is what the article said so to mack sure that it was right I asked Steve Hoelscher and he basically said the same thing.oh and by the way Steve's autox car ran 5w30 Mobil1.
 
And if you are choosing different weights for different temperatures you may not be getting what you think you are getting. There are many 5w30s that flow worse when cold and are thinner when hot than a 5w40. SAE weight is a range of tests and it doesn't really tell you too much. With the oil technology today you can get one oil that flows at incredibly cold temperatures and is more than thick enough to protect when hot. Changing oils with the seasons is entirely unnecessary and potentially harmful if you don't understand what you using.
 
ok, I will go with my unmentioned option A

Which is to use Mobil 1 5/30 like I use in the Sky Redline and stick with NAPA filters. Thanks guys...
 
Do some used oil analysis so we can see how things are wearing. I'm interested to see how these engines hold up with ILSAC oil.
 
My x is a play toy and weekend fun car that sees most of its use in the summer, on teh Blue Ridge Parkway and other curvy roads, one gear lower than expected, in teh top third of the RPM band.

Was running Mobil 1 15W-50.

Last year switched to Shell Rotella Syn 15W-40

Oil analysis show no unusual wear.

Oil changed annually (~ every 1500 miles)

Autocross car gets Mobil 1 5W-30

I use Mann filters sized for Volvo 240. Perfect fit with extra media / oil capacity.
 
Chris St-Louis said:
It does however meet the ACEA A1/A2 which is outdated, and does not have the HTHS to protect our flat tappets like a A3/B3. Your sky has a different valvedrain then the X.
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I'm not convinced that high HTHS is essential for flat tappet cams. VW as a lot of problems with flat tappet cams and much of that can be traced to the inappropriate use of low HTHS oil but they still fail frequently on the correct oil. VW just makes crappy cams and lifters. On the other hand there are many Japanese engines with flat tappet cams that run hundreds of thousands of miles on low HTHS ILSAC oil and cam wear is nearly unheard of. Fiats don't have problems with cam wear and I have a feeling low HTHS oil, while probably not optimal, isn't going to cause a problem. Most Fiat engines have pretty loose clearances throughout and a high HTHS oil is ideal. However, if you have built an engine with tight clearances and everything is in good working order a low HTHS oil might be ideal. I'm not really sure but it's an interesting subject.
 
Chris St-Louis said:
I havent researched VW enough to talk intellegently. Higher HTHS, as a rule of thumb is better for flat tappets then lower. Does using lower mean your cam will grind apart, Not always, but why risk it. I do agree though that there are quality differences between manufactures on their cams.

Our friend in Arizona is already using a Mobil One product in his X. For the same price why not use the one that offered the most protection?
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I agree. You might want to use a lower viscosity oil to increase fuel economy slightly at the expense of maybe only slightly higher wear. I'm not sure why someone would use a low HTHS oil in a race car. I'd be interested to see UOA from some of the X1/9 race cars that are using ILSAC 5w30.
 
Curious... Has anyone used or investigated motorcycle oils?

I've read many of them have increased zinc/mineral additives since many motorcycles still have flat or solid lifters... so that sounds good... plus I think some are sold in the 15w-50, 20w-50 range, compared to lighter weight modern stuff that is so common.

But... reading around it seems they are formulated without certain additives that can play havoc with the oil bath clutches many motorcycles have.
 
That's kinda where I was going with the Amsoil & Motul question. I like Motul products, buy have not tried them in a car. I figure a 4stroke is basically the same as a Fiat SOHC, but I'll wait for more experience ti pitch in before I plan to use it in my next oil change. What about Agip oil? Can we get it here in the US? I seem to remember something about the quality of Agip isn't what it used to be or something??
 
The only thing Agip I have seen in the states has been stickers and stuff like that! I bought an Agip t-shirt off eBay and wore it to a 'military Brat' reunion where a bunch of people I knew in Naples in the 70's were at. Since almost all the gas stations were Agip stations with the traditional logo and script I got a whole bunch of laughs out of that shirt!

As far as their real oil/lube products go, I've never seen anything here.
 
Chris I have read your past posts on oil quality, thank you for listing some of the brands and grades of oil that meet A3/B3 specs.

DaveR
 
Engine Oil Type, Viscosity and Brand:

Hello All:
I just changed the oil & filter on my stock 1982 X1/9 and used Royal Purple 15w40 full synthetic motor oil and a K&N oil filter. The viscosity was chosen because of the owner’s manual recommendation.

However I do have the following concerns:

-Should full synthetic motor oil be used on these types of engines?

- Is the 15w sufficient for cold starts? (Toronto, Canada summer climates can range from 15C (60F) to 32C (90F).)

- Is the 40 sufficient to handle standard driving temperatures?

- Can this type of oil cause excess leaking? I’ve always had some sweating type leakage, but I’m not sure if its transmission oil or motor oil or a combination of both.
Thanks,
Joe
 
That oil is fine and will work in much colder and hotter temps than that. It won't cause excessive leaking. Synthetics causing leaking is a myth. It's a Fiat so it will probably leak regardless.
 
flat tappet cams need zinc

use diesel oil
high mileage castol gtx
or add zinc especially with a tuned motor, high lift cam stiffer springs etc.

New oils don't have any or as much zinc because is fouls the new cats

Chris
Oakland,Ca.
 
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