Squeaky clutch pedal

Larry

Larry

True Classic
The clutch pedal is squeaky in my '86 X. I was told at one point the using a spray grease on the mechanism would make it all happy.

But that doesn't always seem to work and when it's rainy outside, it's not as much fun to spray it all.

I've also heard that a more permanent solution is to remove the pedal box and then I can do a more complete repair on it.

Opinions?

Larry
'86 X1/9
'79 X1/9
'81 Spider 2000
 
My $.02

Hey Larry

On the pedal box there is a bushing that a bolt goes through. This seemed to be the area of sqeeking in my car. The only way to correct it is to pull the pedal box and clean.

I did this when my clutch master cylinder sprung a leak.

I would wait and do the job in total. That is, replace/rebuild both the brake and clutch master cylinders, the hydraulic feed hoses from the reservoirs and, if needed, the reservoirs.

I found that planing to replace the reservoir hoses makes re-installing the pedal box much easier.

Good luck.
 
Sometimes, if you are lucky....

Hi Larry,
The squeaking from the clutch pedal is most generally the bushings, as noted. However, occasionally, the squeak will come from the return spring where it connects to the pedal. So, that is another place to hit with lube.

Ciao,
 
Waiting?

I don't know that I really want to wait - the noise is irritating enough (plus the car's stereo and speakers are really crappy so turning the radio up really loud to mask the noise isn't an option).

Assuming I don't want to wait, how do I go about pulling the pedal box?

Also, how often do the brake and clutch master cylinders need to be rebuilt? I've heard *that* job is even worse than doing the accelerator cable (which I did a couple of summers ago).

Larry
 
Is it?

I read the description - it sounds like it does everything, but is it a dessert topping or a floor wax? :)

Larry
 
I'll give that a try...

I've looked up there but I suppose I'll have to lay down (on my back) on the job to see it all properly. :)

Larry
 
Readers Digest Version

Removing Pedal Box:

1. Remove steering wheel from column.
2. Discconect Steering shaft from under dash and let it lay on the floor.
3. Disconnect brake lite switch wires.
4. Remove all hydraulic connections from both master cylinders. This is a tough one. If you plan on replacing the resevoir hoses, just cut them from inside the front trunk (after removing the putty). If not, getting at the clamps can be a PITA!. Be very careful when disconnecting the metal lines. Do not strip!
5. Two bolts hold the back of the pedal box to the "firewall".
6. Take several photos of the box before dissassembly to remember all the details!
7. Clean and lube/grease all the bushings and springs.
8. Attach new reservoir hoses before mounting box in car.
9. Reassemble.

With all parts onhand, including bleeding, I did the job in 4 hours with the help of my son.

If you need details, I will be happy to oblige.
 
I used Chain lube on mine

For a few reasons...

1, the spray can comes with a neat long tube for a super-direct application.
2, it comes out thin so it penetrates a bit, then thickens up for the long haul.
3, it's neat, clean, and instant results, so you can spray a nudge, try, and try again until you get it.

I did mine once in the last 2 years and the squeak has never returned.

Just another in a series of suggestions...
 
Chain Lube as in...

for a chain saw or for a bicycle or motorcycle?

I like the spray lube ideas the best....

Larry
 
My 2 C

I did a lot of work on that on my late greenX. I even machined a new plastic bushing to no veil.
I think the [FONT=&quot]squeak [/FONT]comes from the return spring, the one wound around the bushing.
 
I did mine with the spray grease on the spring only.

If I remember correctly I just did the spring part to see if that was the spot. It hasn't squeeked for years since,whichever part it was.Wipe off the excess so it won't fall. I certainly didn't take the assembly appart so it seeped in where was needed. Quick to try regardless.
 
Make it easier next time too

8. Attach new reservoir hoses before mounting box in car.
Click to expand...

When you install the new hoses, cut them about 8" too long. Route the excess in a flat loop towards the driver's side and then back to the opening into the footwell, so you don't create a high spot that makes the bleeding harder. Next time you go to remove the pedal box, or if you have to drop it again while you're messing with the hard lines, you'll really appreciate the extra reach.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top