Starting issue

nichol01

nichol01

True Classic
I have had some no start issues in the past starter just clicks. I have since had the starter rebuilt, cleaned all grounds, added extra ground cables to starter and cam box. everything seemed good starter cranks freely and fast. But last week I have been having the same no start just click scenario. What I have noticed is when I first turn ignition on, the lights on the dash are very dim. The starter spins but no fire. If I wait approx. 5 seconds I can here a faint click under the dash then the dash lights get bright like normal and the car starts right up. Yesterday I had the same issue only after I waited the 5 seconds for the dash lights to get bright the starter just clicked. I pushed the car forward in third gear to bump the motor a little. It then started right up. Haven't done any diagnosing yet. Just wondering if anyone here had the same issue or would have an idea what it might be. Thanks Jon N.
 
If that faint click seems like it's coming from the steering wheel area, it could be arcing within one of the connectors from the harness to the ignition switch, so I'd open them up and have a look-see. Or maybe the switch itself.

If it sounds more like above your knee, then maybe a bad contact or relay in the fusebox area.

I think '82 is too late for interlock nonsense. Maybe a PO has some sort of kill switch or alarm interlock going on, does the underdash wiring look stock or does it look like there is a lot of "aftemarket spaghetti"?
 
First step is to see whether the problem is in the starter or the electricals. Connect the solenoid directly to the battery hot terminal with a length of wire (I bought a pushbutton switch from the FLAPS for this, highly recommend it), and if that gives you a solid crank something is wrong in your wiring. If not, it's the starter or the battery.
 
Once you do what Eric suggests, you may end up needing to add a starter relay to take the solenoid electrical load off of your ignition switch. This is fairly easy to do and actually only needs a couple of new wires. The relay if waterproof could live in the engine bay or if not waterproof in the spare tire bay next to the other relays.

I can look around for a thread this evening for you. One can search on “hard start relay’ ‘starter relay’ or similar
 
Thanks for all the feedback. The one thing I noticed when I had the steering column off a year ago, the harness to the ignition switch had signs of heat. The brown wire was modified at the connector and soddered together. I cut that out and put a connector there. All other wiring seemed factory and untouched. I'm leaning towards a bad ignition switch. Possibly arcing inside. I have installed headlight relays to help take load off the switch. I do like the idea of installing a relay at the starter. Taking current away from the ign. switch. I have heard this is a problem with our cars, all that current running through the switch. Also will try the remote start switch. Although I do think the starter is good it spins very free and strong when it does work and I have a good battery. Thanks again everyone for all your suggestions. I will report back my findings.
 
(I installed a relay at my key switch to take all the load off my key switch) now my key switch only takes the power for the relay, the radio/clock, and starter, and I am going to put in a starter relay, just have not done it yet)
 
I'm pretty sure I have diagnosed my issue to be the Ignition switch. I have searched and have read the wiki on possible repair to the switch. Taking it apart and cleaning and repair as needed. My concern is now when I take it apart it will be beyond repair and I won't be able to drive it for awhile. . But I also can't take a chance anymore driving it the way it is. I have seen new switches are pretty expensive.
 
nichol01 said:
I'm pretty sure I have diagnosed my issue to be the Ignition switch. I have searched and have read the wiki on possible repair to the switch. Taking it apart and cleaning and repair as needed. My concern is now when I take it apart it will be beyond repair and I won't be able to drive it for awhile. . But I also can't take a chance anymore driving it the way it is. I have seen new switches are pretty expensive.
Click to expand...
You should be able to hot wire it temporarily.
 
nichol01 said:
I'm pretty sure I have diagnosed my issue to be the Ignition switch. I have searched and have read the wiki on possible repair to the switch. Taking it apart and cleaning and repair as needed. My concern is now when I take it apart it will be beyond repair and I won't be able to drive it for awhile. . But I also can't take a chance anymore driving it the way it is. I have seen new switches are pretty expensive.
Click to expand...

There are inexpensive non-USA-spec X1/9 switches on eBay that come from Egypt, but yes if you can find the specific USA-market OEM switch for our cars (with the door chime leads and connector), it's usually very pricey, $200 and up. FIAT used similar switches on a lot of their cars, with the exteriors looking very much alike with the differences being the wiring loom specifics and connectors. Maybe a look alike could be purchased and dissected and the innards used to rebuild yours, not sure just conjecture. IIRC Greg aka "budgetzagato" posted a rebuild thread many years ago that had good pics of what to look for and do.

Another thing that drives the prices up is that the ig switch on our cars is a workable substitute for an ig switch used on one of the Bertone Lamborghinis--an OEM Lambo ig switch is said to go for upwards of $1400.00!
 
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