stock radio harness?

jvandyke

jvandyke

True Classic
Behind my radio is a large connector not hooked up. I assumed it was for a radio but maybe AC? If radio, anyone have a diagram. I haven't found it referenced on the diagrams that I have. Main goal is to find an easy 12v source, unswitched so I can have the radio on when I want (key off). Can run my own of course, or just start testing but I like to know what's there and why.
 
I've got the standard issue digital military time clock. Working fine.
No pictures but I'll snap one next time I'm in there. Maybe tonight as I'd like the radio hot for my lunch breaks, I might explore tonight. I know it has at least a black wire as I tested that as a good ground and used it for my stereo. Don't remember other colors but I think there's a red that I tapped for switched power. I thought it was for the stock radio (was there one?) or AC controls.
 
Did the connector look like this?...

dscf0664alarge.jpg


This is what came out of my '86 (my previous '84 had the same one). My car came to me with a "dealer" installed radio... and it was pretty much a hack job. They had spliced into the wires behind the connector using a combination of wire nuts and other fasteners... but then they left the original connector still attached but wrapped in tape (!?).

When I put a new stereo in last year I cleaned things up, installing a completely new connector that was compatible with the unit.

Color code:

pink/blk, grn/blk, lite blue/red and white/red are all speaker leads (sorry, but I don't remember which is which)
Black = ground
Orange = switched 12v
 
Yep, I'm 90% sure that's it.
Thanks, I'll have to run my own unswitched power source then. I'm pulling one off the cigarette lighter now for the clock but I don't want those amps going through that cheesy little wire I used so I'll run a dedicated one. Probably with an inline fuse.
 
are you planning a brown wire mod?

Pick up a 6-position or so add on blade style fuse block. Mine is fed by a 10ga and supports 6 ea. circuits up to 30amps.

Mount in the front trunk area. Then you can run separate fused circuits for each of those items. I think I spent about $25 for the block, fuses and wire....

Auto Zone and Advance Auto both had the same fuse block. It has a screw down lug for the feed, then spade connectors for each line off it.
 
Stereo wiring...

I recommend (and others do as well) a dedicated power and ground for stereo components. This is an easy way to make sure you don't get "ground loop" noise coming out of your speakers.

Keep in mind all of the switches in the console in the lower row can be used for things like radio power. Most new stereos have two power leads; one is meant to have constant power to preserve memory presets and clock setting, the other is the "trigger" for an internal relay that provides the power for the radio when you have it "on". If you switch this wire with one of these switches you'll be pleased. Some radios have the ability to turn "off" even if this second wire is powered constantly, others do not. What you want to avoid is a situation where the display is lit up when it's "off" or some other condition that will drain your battery.
 
A switch for radio power supply is a good idea. My el cheapy Sony has an auto off feature, currently set for 30 seconds of inactivity, so it should shut down if it's not doing something. It was like this in my other car and worked out well, the constant power feed for preset memory and clock are just tied with it.
All is well......for now.
I did run dedicated power to it last night but it is using the ground from the old radio harness.
 
Stereo ground

I used that ground originally and had some rpm-related noise. When I ran a dedicated ground from the (-) battery post to the stereo the noise went away.

I use one of those switches for my sub/amp. No need for extra bass when listening to NPR. :bla:
 
Since we're on the topic of stereos; some PO in the distant past put a large (though "only" 100W) amp in the front trunk, then another little amp by the passenger's feet. There were very heavy gauge speaker wires running from the front amp to behind both passenger seats (where the speakers were is a mystery unless they just sat on the floor behind the seats? the original cut outs for the 4/6" in the rear deck are still intact).
I have removed all of this, it was fairly well installed but I think most heads provide more watts then of old. My Sony did not like the amp for some reason and I didn't try to figure it out since those speakers have more than they can handle anyway. Some day I'd like good speakers, perhaps an amp, maybe even a sub in the "spare tire" That is way down the road though. Right now I've got my cheap (though quite nice) Sony going to some 4" round door speakers and it's not too bad for now.
 
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