Surprise project for tomorrow

Nope, it's just my hard lines. In fact, all of my soft lines look good.

Kmead- I bought Valvoline's brake fluid. It seemed like the best stuff the store sold.

My brother in-law as of Saturday is going to help bleed the brakes on Tuesday, so this should all be wrapped up soon.
 
Re: bleeders

Hi again Alex. You said you could not find your bleeders. See the photo below. It was taken from the engine bay towards the inside of the left rear wheel. You can see the bleeder screw - with a little rubber cap - just in front of where the rubber line comes into the caliper. Sure hope yours have not been broken off by a previous owner! Please take care in loosening them as they can be easy to snap off.

By the way, I would not use the silicone fluid. Just use regular DOT 3 or preferably DOT 4. I would not mix regular and synthetic fluid.
picture639.jpg
 
So, we've got the line all spliced and connected, all looks good. However, we can't seem to bleed the back brakes. We crack the bleeder, nothing. No air, no fluid. We even took the lines off, nothing. Anybody have any ideas? Thank you
 
Fluid

One gotcha is that the brake fluid reservoir is dual chamber, one chamber for rears, one for front. The reservoir can look full even if one chamber is empty. Are you sure you have fluid in both?
 
Issues

Well, the job has taken 14+ hours so far and isn't nearly done. Several of those hours were trying to hunt down problems though. The reason the rear wasn't bleeding was because we had obstructions in our brake line. That fixed, we had leakage from the tee, because the threads have moved and the line now threads diagonally, so the flare doesn't go in straight. My flare nut wrenches didn't help on the other two flare nuts, they were too corroded/worn already, and I can't get a grip on them with vise grips. So I probably have to cut the two other lines right at the tee, replace the tee, and hope I can get another flare on those lines in that tight area. Otherwise, we are fairly screwed. Thoughts, opinions, etc? This should not be taking this long, and it just feels like about everything has gone wrong.
 
The rears are shorter segments of line...

and pretty much fully exposed. You could replace those? Get a set from Matt in good condition. They clip around inside the engine bay, then out to the flex lines. May want to do the 2 flex lines at the same time.

If you can find them locally with the right flares and fittings, not too difficult to bend your own using a hand-held tubing bender.
 
Done finally...For now

Well, I have it fixed for the time being. I took a good look at the tee and decided that given it uses a bubble flare, the flare may still seal at a small angle. So I loosened it a bit and tightened it again. No more leak. I pretty much stomped on the pedal a bunch of times with no leakage anymore. This is after bleeding of course. So I'm going to drive it for the few driving weeks I have left, as I'm pretty easy on my brakes anyway, and when I have to put it away finally I'll pull the engine and replace all my lines and the tee for good measure, and replace both master cylinders in the front (brake is leaking a little, might as well do clutch at same time). Anyway thanks for all the help guys and gals, I'll be contacting again when it comes time to drop the engine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top