THinking of getting a Scorpion...
- Thread starter BrettM
- Start date
Pete Whitstone
True Classic
Rust
Around the wheel arches, bottoms of doors, and the engine cross-member especially.
Check that rear calipers are original - the X1/9 calipers fit and are often used as a replacement but they are not the same piston size.
Replacement parts for the tops are hard to find or expensive when you do find them. Check that all parts related to the canvas top are present and in good working condition - especially the leather straps that run down each side. Look for tears where they crease to fold.
The engine cover release latch on the drivers door sill is different from the X1/9 unit (only a single lever instead of 2) but like the X1/9 unit, they are prone to break so finding a car with one in working condition is a bonus.
There is a coolant tunnel thingy that connects the lower front bumper to the central tunnel, these are often gone so check to see if it is present.
There is also a fusebox cover that is usually missing - not the black plastic one immediately over the fuses, but one that covers that and is done in the same material as the dash/console.
I'm sure there's lots more that I am forgetting, but that will get the list started.
Pete
Around the wheel arches, bottoms of doors, and the engine cross-member especially.
Check that rear calipers are original - the X1/9 calipers fit and are often used as a replacement but they are not the same piston size.
Replacement parts for the tops are hard to find or expensive when you do find them. Check that all parts related to the canvas top are present and in good working condition - especially the leather straps that run down each side. Look for tears where they crease to fold.
The engine cover release latch on the drivers door sill is different from the X1/9 unit (only a single lever instead of 2) but like the X1/9 unit, they are prone to break so finding a car with one in working condition is a bonus.
There is a coolant tunnel thingy that connects the lower front bumper to the central tunnel, these are often gone so check to see if it is present.
There is also a fusebox cover that is usually missing - not the black plastic one immediately over the fuses, but one that covers that and is done in the same material as the dash/console.
I'm sure there's lots more that I am forgetting, but that will get the list started.
Pete
The three chronic rust areas on Scorpions are:
1) Underside of hood around the vents - it's a bear to fix this as it's a double-layer construction with water absorbent in between
2) Bulkhead behind the seats - rear window will leak behind the seats and make a mess of the bulkhead and the floorpan(s). There's this foam and tar soundproofing which also absorbs and holds water against the fine Spanish steel underneath. Getting this crap out is a pain in the butt.
3) Engine compartment under the heat shield above the muffler-shelf
If the seller will let you get intimate, check these spots. The most difficult to fix is the hood, the most tedious to fix is the bulkhead. The engine compartment is pretty easy, but will be a surprise when you see it. Ideally, all of this has already been done.
Rust aside, broken seat backrest is also a common problem in these cars if the original seats are still there. The rear taillight panel is also very easy to break, and next to impossible to source a replacement. Be sure it's there and fixable, or prepare to make a new one yourself.
All the other usual X1/9 stuff worth a check too (bushings, ball joints, bearings).
Sloppy shifter is an easy fix usually - these nylon cup things fall out, easy to obtain, tricky to install but it works fine.
Get to know the folks at Monte Hospital - they're the bee's knees.
http://www.montehospital.com/
1) Underside of hood around the vents - it's a bear to fix this as it's a double-layer construction with water absorbent in between
2) Bulkhead behind the seats - rear window will leak behind the seats and make a mess of the bulkhead and the floorpan(s). There's this foam and tar soundproofing which also absorbs and holds water against the fine Spanish steel underneath. Getting this crap out is a pain in the butt.
3) Engine compartment under the heat shield above the muffler-shelf
If the seller will let you get intimate, check these spots. The most difficult to fix is the hood, the most tedious to fix is the bulkhead. The engine compartment is pretty easy, but will be a surprise when you see it. Ideally, all of this has already been done.
Rust aside, broken seat backrest is also a common problem in these cars if the original seats are still there. The rear taillight panel is also very easy to break, and next to impossible to source a replacement. Be sure it's there and fixable, or prepare to make a new one yourself.
All the other usual X1/9 stuff worth a check too (bushings, ball joints, bearings).
Sloppy shifter is an easy fix usually - these nylon cup things fall out, easy to obtain, tricky to install but it works fine.
Get to know the folks at Monte Hospital - they're the bee's knees.
http://www.montehospital.com/
I'm a newbie but...
In addition to what the others have said, look carefully at the glued-in windshield for signs of delamination, leaking, crack and/or chips that will turn into cracks, and rust.
Front trunk floor, battery tray.
It shares many X parts so some will look familiar. I like mine. :excited:
In addition to what the others have said, look carefully at the glued-in windshield for signs of delamination, leaking, crack and/or chips that will turn into cracks, and rust.
Front trunk floor, battery tray.
It shares many X parts so some will look familiar. I like mine. :excited: