Trans mount replacement

Ben Louis

True Classic
I was looking at the 'what did you do today' discussion and it's a great thread. But I think I have a bit too much to post there. Besides this whole trans mount endeavor took me 2 weeks anyways...

Since I first purchased my X one thing that always bugged me was how close the tolerance was between the CV and the rear cross-member. Not knowing any better, and having bigger priorities I didn't fully investigate. Well, now I've checked some of those priorities off the list and it was time to take a look under the car.

This is what I found:

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Surprise, a totally destroyed Bush. Now the lack of CV clearance makes sense. Good thing I haven't been driving the car tooooo much. I suspect all the bushes in the car are destroyed, as Ive already had a look around and everything other than what I've already replaced it shot. So, although I have driven the car a bit I didn't notice any specific sound of the CV rubbing because it was lost in veritable forest of suspension, wonks, bumps, and whah whahs. Time to get dirty and pull that suka

There might be a better way to do this but what worked for me was first putting a jack under the trans and lifting until I first saw the motor lift up separate from the whole chassis lifting. This told me the weight of the trans had been taken off the mount. A visual check under the car now showed a small gap. Just do enough jack for a small lift to unload the weight of the powertrain. Then loosen the cross member bolts (4). Loosen only for all these first steps! Then Loosen the (2) vertical bolts which hold the rubber bush to the cross-member. Then finally loosen the (2) bolts and (1) nut which connect the mount to the trans. You want to loosen everything first to make sure these parts are not under any load. Make sure everything is moving freely before going further, otherwise it will be much harder to put back together and may put undue strain on parts. Then remove (2) vertical bush to cross bolts. Now remove (2) bolts and further loosen but leave (1) nut which goes on a stud threaded into the trans. Remove all cross-member bolts. Cross-member should come off. Remove final nut from stud, and trans mount. The stud allows you to rotate the trans mount assembly which helps a lot in getting this stuff apart and back together.

Here's what I found:
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Turns out the CV was scrapping. I inspected the CV and it seems to be fine, maybe some minor scuffing but that's it. I'm hoping the cross-member is a softer steel than the CV and took most of the damage. Bush totally shot. It must have been replaced before because there's no integral exhaust hanger and I have a late car. After some research I found that Eurosport seems to have a tougher bush available without the exhaust mount, which I don't need anyways because I have a custom exhaust setup right now. So I ordered it.
 
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While waiting for parts to arrive. I decided to freshen up my cross-member. One of the bolts which was tacked in from factory had sheared off so I decided to weld both bolts in better because 3 tiny tacks just didn't seem sturdy to me for such an important and load bearing piece. I also decided to put some additional weld on several other areas for strength. My welder was having wire feed issues so the welds aren't my best for sure but I still had good penetration and laid sufficient material. And I'm convinced that they will add a lot more strength. Then I stripped, jasco'd, primed, and painted while waiting for parts.
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It took about 2 weeks but my trans mount finally arrived. I had been so good about taking pics of my progress but as soon as I got the parts, I immediately threw it all together, put it in the car, and went for a drive. Turns out there was a noticeable noise, and I'm sure an expert with just one ride would be able to immediately identify the problem. But, there is still plenty of chatter from other parts yelling at me to be fixed and in my defense I've never driven in any other X but mine, so its a learning process. However my post fix drive was wonderful and a definite improvement!

Basically the install is the reverse. Loosely install the cross-member first. If anything is hitting, your transmission is too low and not supported right. Put the trans mount on the stud and rotate it up until you can secure the (2) vertical bolts. Then install all remaining bolts/nut and tighten in steps working around the assembly diagonally. I found the install requires a bit more fiddling to get things to line up properly. Don't be tempted to use torque on the bolts to pull everything into alignment. Use your jack to put the transmission level where it needs to be.

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Here is everything installed. If your CV is too close to the cross-member DO THIS FIX! It's relatively easy and doesn't cost a lot...certainly less work and $ than a new CV joint.
 
!!Note: One of the Vertical bushing bolts is shorter than the other. Make sure when you pull them you note where the short bolt is located and put it back where it belongs which is to the rear of the car; most visible bolt in the above pic. If you put the long bolt in the wrong spot it will punch through your oil pan. Check with a finger behind the captive nut to make sure there is clearance!!

It's rain today...that's why I'm inside and finally dedicating some time to putting up this thread. Tomorrow I will post a pic and a measurement for cross-member / CV clearance values, at least as they are for my car. Should be a good set point for type of clearance a new part will start you off with.
 
Ok so I went out with my feeler gauges and got a measurement on CV clearance. Mine shows minimum 1.8mm gap. That is, a 1.8mm feeler can go all the way through from one side to the other under the CV. The gap is a bit larger at bottom center ~ 2.5mm, but my parts did have some rub which probably removed material and created a larger gap. However 1.8mm +- .25mm all the way across should be in the ballpark.

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As I am sure you read in your research, oftentimes oil leaks from engine and/or trans allow oil to attack the rubber of the mount and hasten its demise.

Nice work on the refurb of the crossmember, better than new!

You went Mr. Precision on us with the feeler gauges :) but generally the advice is that the gap should be about a #2 pencil.
 
Curious when you actually ordered the mount from the UK - last time I checked they were out of stock & had no ETA. I'd like to have a spare, as they don't seem to last (already have one of theirs from years ago) - yours looks like there was some oil seepage, which would also shorten the lifespan of the rubber.
 
Dan, it's me not you.... so I measured a #2 pencil and mine came out to 6.5mm. I have no reference so I'm worried that my max clearance of 2.5mm is too small. Can anyone else provide a factory spec or measure theirs? Some call it precise, some call it manic :)

Joe, my apologies if I got you excited. My mistake it was Vick's not Eurosport. Ive ordered literally a couple dozen or more parts from various X19 sellers over the past month or two. I had to go back and look at my receipt pile, but it was deff Vick's. Yes there is oil seepage so likely it will need doing again. What's an average lifespan for this part?
 
Nice and thanks for posting!

I did notice that you don't have the factory CV bolts, and you have lock washers under the ones you have. If I'm not mistaken, the CV bolt should be just peeking at the end of the flange, indicating that you may not have enough thread engagement.

I'd just check on that to ensure they won't back out.

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My mount has seen better days!
 
Nice and thanks for posting!

I did notice that you don't have the factory CV bolts, and you have lock washers under the ones you have. If I'm not mistaken, the CV bolt should be just peeking at the end of the flange, indicating that you may not have enough thread engagement.

I'd just check on that to ensure they won't back out.

View attachment 8019

My mount has seen better days!
Nice catch!
 
Hmmm interesting stuff. I deff need to check the CV bolts. Mxgrds, is this link a response to my lower than normal CV clearance? Being that I have the Vick’s it might be a bit too short as stated in the link. I kept the old piece and separated it like the link said already with the thought of maybe trying a poly bush type setup (this is only a dream) down the road. A great bit of insight to raising clearance. I also see another thread just went up discussing mount dimensions as well
 
Hi,

I'm with Myron on that one. The original bolts are Allen, allowing for more clearance between the bolts and the boot. I'm afraid your bolt could grind the boot, or at least they could rip the collar. There is a reason why Fiat used Allen bolts instead of regular ones. Also, no washers. It is often recommended to use regular Loctite on the thread to insure the bolts will not fall. Don't ask why I know.
 
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