Water pump capacity

Nice work, Ulix.

No clearance issues with that silicone hose off the branch pipe and your headers? Looks like it would get crispy if used as such on my setup.

We have such limited bay space it’s hard to see where else it could go besides your chosen location without adding a nightmare series of additional piping.
 
Thanks.
The header fortunately has a lot of clearance to the water pipe, unlike others here that require a heat shield.
I would like to see if the pump could be installed in front right at the radiator.
The line would need to be tapped into before and after the pump for the heater connections though. The heater hoses could then run directly to the heater core somehow.
 
Ulix said:
Thanks.
The header fortunately has a lot of clearance to the water pipe, unlike others here that require a heat shield.
I would like to see if the pump could be installed in front right at the radiator.
The line would need to be tapped into before and after the pump for the heater connections though. The heater hoses could then run directly to the heater core somehow.
Click to expand...

The thing that's bothering me is the erratic temp jumps - which I'm assuming are due to the prescribed duty cycle. Has it improved as the ambient temps have risen, or not so much?
 
Ulix said:
The heater hoses could then run directly to the heater core somehow.
Click to expand...
I've been considering something like this even with the stock pump. Just to get rid of those long heater hoses and not have them routed through/near the passenger compartment.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
I've been considering something like this even with the stock pump. Just to get rid of those long heater hoses and not have them routed through/near the passenger compartment.
Click to expand...

If you do that with the water pump still in the back by the engine, I would be concerned that you may not get any flow through the heater core because there is not enough pressure difference between the two connection points.
 
Agreed. I am thinking there might be two factors working: 1) With the flow being directional, the system circulating in a constant pattern (one side traveling from the engine toward the rad and one from the rad to the engine), that would create the same circulation through the heater core. Not so much pressure difference as movement, velocity, inertia, flow, whatever you want to call it. 2) And also the pressure gradient you refer to. As a closed system, if the pump is supplying increased pressure exiting it and decreased pressure entering it, then there will be a pressure differential through out that entire closed loop. Perhaps not as much of a gradient at some points but hopefully enough. Otherwise, if there wasn't, the coolant would not be circulating through the radiator.

But frankly I live in a region where a heater is optional and AC is mandatory. So the efficiency of the heater is not vital. In fact removing the heater hoses from anywhere around the passenger compartment is a bonus by reducing the amount of heat that radiates inside (during the vast majority of the year when you are trying to cool the interior). Especially for a "fair weather" vehicle like this; it is only driven occasionally and typically in nice weather. So I could even consider removing the heater completely, but I won't. I'm sure this is very different in Germany. ;)
 
If you are using a positive shut off heater valve (as opposed to one of those with the third leg we had been discussing in another thread), there is no circulation at all when the valve is closed, so the hoses don't get hot at all. Mine stay ambient temp with the heat off.
 
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