What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

Did a wheel alignment today as the car was understeered during the last Trackday event. Especially after sliding off when trying to keep up with a Lotus Exige at the most twisty part of the track. After this disaster, the car became much worse. It is hard to accept that modern cars are faster but that is not surprising with all their "cheat" electronics; ABS, Anti-slide, LSD, and Shift Padels...
I visited a company that specializes in wheel alignment for racing cars. The steering wheel is straight and the car feels OK again, and no signs of understeering. Got the following values:
Front
Toe 0°
Camber 2°
Caster 6°
Rear
Toe 0°
Camber 2°
I had more Camber (3°) when I aligned the car two years ago so I am looking forward to next track day event on June 11th to see how she behaves. This setup is a compromise that also works on the road.
 
trying to keep up with an Exige?! Jeez man why don't you set your sights higher? ;)
Would love to see video - have any in-car footage?
 
I try to keep up with Lotus Exige and Alfa 4c. They are mid-engine cars with about the same power-to-weight ratio as me. But as I said, they are modern cars with lots of cheats and much better shoes so they are hard to beat.
Didn't bring the camera this time.
 
I was cleaning out a cabinet and came across a couple of photos of my X from the 70s. The color in the photos vanished (except around the edges) due to aging so they are now black and white:

1974 Fiat X19 in Los Altos.jpg


This photo shows the X with a set of 185/70-13 Pirelli CN36 tires on it. They ended up only a hair taller than the stock 145/82-13s but really filled up the wheel wells.

1974 Fiat X19 & 1972 Plymouth Duster in Los Altos.jpg


Here is a shot from the rear next to a 72 Plymouth Duster with a slant six and TorqueFlite. The X makes a compact car like the Duster seem gigantic.
 
dllubin said:
I was cleaning out a cabinet and came across a couple of photos of my X from the 70s. The color in the photos vanished (except around the edges) due to aging so they are now black and white:

View attachment 73883

This photo shows the X with a set of 185/70-13 Pirelli CN36 tires on it. They ended up only a hair taller than the stock 145/82-13s but really filled up the wheel wells.

View attachment 73884

Here is a shot from the rear next to a 72 Plymouth Duster with a slant six and TorqueFlite. The X makes a compact car like the Duster seem gigantic.
Click to expand...
Before reading a word my first thought was those were some nice meaty tires!
 
I remember when smaller wheels and taller tires was the preferred trend. On one of my very first full-custom builds (at age 13) I actually did a wheel swap from 15" down to 14" so I could run larger tires. Back then you didn't have many options in tire aspect ratios, so to go wider you also had to go taller. My buddy's dad had replaced the tires on his Mercedes SL and gave me the used ones. Hey, it was 1971 and I was just a kid making the car 'my way'. That was a Triumph TR4, my first and last British sports car. :)
 
Bjorn Nilson said:
Did a wheel alignment today as the car was understeered during the last Trackday event. Especially after sliding off when trying to keep up with a Lotus Exige at the most twisty part of the track. After this disaster, the car became much worse. It is hard to accept that modern cars are faster but that is not surprising with all their "cheat" electronics; ABS, Anti-slide, LSD, and Shift Padels...
I visited a company that specializes in wheel alignment for racing cars. The steering wheel is straight and the car feels OK again, and no signs of understeering. Got the following values:
Front
Toe 0°
Camber 2°
Caster 6°
Rear
Toe 0°
Camber 2°
I had more Camber (3°) when I aligned the car two years ago so I am looking forward to next track day event on June 11th to see how she behaves. This setup is a compromise that also works on the road.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. For camber, I assume you mean Negative 2 deg? Look forward to the results on track. Heading to Lime Rock today for a 2-day event. Will report.
 

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Alain - The Red Scorpion said:
Thanks for the info. For camber, I assume you mean Negative 2 deg? Look forward to the results on track. Heading to Lime Rock today for a 2-day event. Will report.
Click to expand...
Yes, they set 2⁰ negative camber based on my tire temperatures and rubber patterns. I am not 100% pleased with the Nankang AR-1 tires. The temperature window is very short. Will try Yokohama A052 when it is time for new shoes.
 
Today i hit a big milestone on my cooling system project, and managed to get the new brake fluid reservoirs (along with the new hoses), installed and operational.

And, best of all, I got to drive it for the first time in a long while as a result.

PXL_20230603_235756097.jpg

Can't wait to move onto bodywork.
 
JNewm said:
(Finally) replaced the decklid after it was damaged during transport. 😒 Here's the before:
View attachment 73815

And the after:

View attachment 73816View attachment 73817

Then took it out for a drive and noticed the left headlight wasn't working (neither low nor high). The electric diagnostic manual suggested only one troubleshooting step: check the ground. Sure enough, a couple of the male leads sticking out of G1 were badly corroded. Cleaned them all, then cleaned the RH headlight ground as well for good measure. No longer The Wallflowers' biggest hit:

View attachment 73818

Took it out for another drive and discovered the radiator fans weren't working. First thought: I forgot to attach a ground wire when I was cleaning. Checked that--nope, all plugged together. Checked the manual dashboard fan switch I installed, checked the relay, checked for power to the fans--all looked good. Has to be a ground. Sure enough one of the wires was connected but loose. I crimped down the female leads, plugged it in, and all worked just fine. May all our electrical demons be this easy to exorcise...
Click to expand...
Oh boy! Gremlins love Fiats! I really like the black deck lid…mine is pretty worn as well. You may have given me an idea…🤔
 
Good day could have been a great day......

Disassembled the struts to install new strut tops in the rear. First strut was easy to disassemble and reassemble.
1685934303481.jpeg


Second one was hard to remove the center nut so had to make a tool to hole the retaining collar. Its not pretty but it did the job.
1685934445099.jpeg
1685934464795.jpeg


Old strut top compared to the new one. All installed with reinforcing plates.
1685934673098.jpeg


What made the day only good was the installation of the rebuilt, painted with new SS lines rear calipers. After installation I was feeling good and it looked great, started the next project then noticed a puddle of Bake fuel under the new build...uhg! It was from the clipare seal, it felt tight while installing the piston I see in retrospect. Most likely the seal slipped out during install. Now I have to rebuild it...PITA.
1685934994026.jpeg
 
So tonight, having finished the punishment which was the cowl restoration, cooling system shenanigans, and project brake fluid spillus minimus, I decided to nose dive off of the next cliff: body work.

And well, I took the plunge and started stripping the previous owners repaint. Thankfully (maybe) it was done so shittily that i was able to remove the base coat with a razor blade. Unfortunately the primer was not so easy, and involved sanding.

Though it would be ideal, I do not think it's feasible to try to save and re-clear the factory paint. Not only because I cut through it a few times, but also because there are a few small patches of Bondo, missing and damaged paint, etc. So, I would rather the whole car be sprayed- the original Rosso in order to match the door jambs and panel undersides.


PXL_20230605_011424234.jpg


PXL_20230605_021138422.jpg
 
They were after Market from Eruosport UK (Some US distributors carry them at much higher prices. Rubber Below the metal is the same but aboves is much less. I feel the OEM was a better part but this is the best available at this time.
 
I don't know Jeff, it depends on how much the rubber was deformed after 38 years assuming this was the original piece. I have not pulled one apart before so have no point of reference. I know the car was sitting on these for at least 15 years but don't know anything before that.
 
KBabcock said:
I don't know Jeff, it depends on how much the rubber was deformed after 38 years assuming this was the original piece. I have not pulled one apart before so have no point of reference. I know the car was sitting on these for at least 15 years but don't know anything before that.
Click to expand...
Here's a random pic (below) I found online of what I believe is a new Fiat mount (although I'm not 100% certain if it is). The thickness of the rubber appears to be roughly in the middle between your old and new mounts. However your pic might be deceiving, it might just be the angle and maybe it really isn't any different.

4228209.jpg
 
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