jvandyke
True Classic
I wondered about that. Now I'm hoping to extract my outer races leaving just the pressing in new, which I will do myself after all. Maybe even paint the carrier!
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wheel bearing installation
- Thread starter jvandyke
- Start date
I wondered about that. Now I'm hoping to extract my outer races leaving just the pressing in new, which I will do myself after all. Maybe even paint the carrier!
Rupunzell
Bernice Loui
The bearing has two races. put the steel balls and inner race back into the bearings housing or OD. then you can press it out by the inner race as a unit.
Keep in mind, it can require several THOUSAND pounds of force to press out that bearing.. Prying on something will likely damage it or at the least, leave nice dents that will prevent the new bearing from seating properly.
Bernice
Keep in mind, it can require several THOUSAND pounds of force to press out that bearing.. Prying on something will likely damage it or at the least, leave nice dents that will prevent the new bearing from seating properly.
Bernice
jvandyke
True Classic
I wondered if that was worth the effort but figured it would just blow apart before I got anywhere. Pounding from the back with a drift has gotten it moving but wow what a lot of work. I'll try to reassemble the bearing insitu and push the inner race. I tried getting a puller behind it now that it has moved a bit off the rear plate but not much luck with that yet. I'm trying to tinker while getting to know our two new foster kids. What a lot of work THEY are! Makes bearing extraction seem easy.
Rupunzell
Bernice Loui
A expanding collet puller of just the proper size .. might work.
Standard jaw puller, not likely, there is just not enough for the puller jaw to hold on to.. when exerting a ton or two of pressure.
Place the plastic steel ball retainer into the outer race, then install the steel balls back into the plastic retainer. Push the steel balls and plastic retainer forward away from the outer race to fit the inner race, and that is it. Press out the bearing by the inner race.
I might have some wheel bearing bits in the shop if needed.
Bernice
Standard jaw puller, not likely, there is just not enough for the puller jaw to hold on to.. when exerting a ton or two of pressure.
Place the plastic steel ball retainer into the outer race, then install the steel balls back into the plastic retainer. Push the steel balls and plastic retainer forward away from the outer race to fit the inner race, and that is it. Press out the bearing by the inner race.
I might have some wheel bearing bits in the shop if needed.
Bernice
jvandyke
True Classic
Sometime this afternoon I lost one of the inner races (I'll blame the 10 year old helper, but it was probably me). Couldn't really rebuild the bearing with only one so, I used a Dremel cutting wheel to notch the ridge a tad to give the drift (some large piece of a tap and die set or something) a better place to hit, got agressive with a baby sledge hammer and it was out in 5 minutes.:headbang:
lookforjoe
True Classic
Did you take any pics? Still can't tell from what's been posted where the heck you are pushing the old bearing out from, with that seal plate in the way/...
lookforjoe
True Classic
Ah - now I see. You pushed out the center, then used the bearing ridge. I couldn't figure out how you were doing it with that seal plate in the way. I know Bernice described the exact same process, but I really need visuals to guide me! :rolleyes2:
jvandyke
True Classic
yes, the outboard inner race came out with the hub, I can't remember exactly when the inboard row's center race came out, I should have tried to keep that together enough to use the inner race to push on but didn't. I would certainly try that next time. My hammer hand is aching! I think I did it the hard way......again.
jvandyke
True Classic
So, since the outer race is now out I can see the step inside the carrier that I think is part of hte carrier and acts as a stop for the bearing, the seal plate is on the backside of this step so the step that I see on the very back must be part of the seal plate after all. So "would" it have been possible to take the plate off, then press out the race "normally"? I don't know how you'd get that plate off though.
First pic here shows the plate from the backside.
Then this shows the step on the inside.
BTW
There was a ton of grease between the outer CV joint and the stub shaft. Is that supposed to be there, or is that what spun out of the bearing?
First pic here shows the plate from the backside.
Then this shows the step on the inside.
BTW
There was a ton of grease between the outer CV joint and the stub shaft. Is that supposed to be there, or is that what spun out of the bearing?
A seal puller will get the plate out (there's room between the lip of the plate and the face of the bearing, created by the thickness of the lip in the hub carrier) but it's a nuisance... the lip in the hub carrier shields the edge of the outer race and stops you from using an old outer race as the press tool, so you're still going to have use some inelegant bearing-smashing technique to push on the inner ridge... takes much of the fun out of removing the plate first.
Bearing goes in dry, no lube or anything else needed. It does help (a lot) to leave the hub carrier out in the sun for a few hours so that it is nice and toasty warm, and to keep the bearing in the freezer overnight before you go to press it in.
I pack the space between the seal plate and the bearing with grease; don't know if it's necessary, but it can't hurt. Likewise, the space between the retaining ring and the bearing... And I put antiseize on the threads of the retaining ring... again, a "can't hurt" thing.
I'm not quite sure what you mean by "between the CV half shaft/stub shaft joint"?
jvandyke
True Classic
How do you know when you've pressed the hub far enough into the carrier/bearing?
BTW bearing went in easy, 6 hours in hte freezer and hub carrier spent about 45 minutes in front of a space heater. It fell in after a few gentle taps with a rubber mallet.
Hub went it well too, supported inner race from below with old bearing's inner race (and a socket) but I don't know when to stop tapping. It "looks" good but, is there a way to know?
BTW bearing went in easy, 6 hours in hte freezer and hub carrier spent about 45 minutes in front of a space heater. It fell in after a few gentle taps with a rubber mallet.
Hub went it well too, supported inner race from below with old bearing's inner race (and a socket) but I don't know when to stop tapping. It "looks" good but, is there a way to know?
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Can't you gauge it from the spacing between the hub flange & the back of the spindle?
It doesn't get progressively harder as it approaches all the way in - it pretty much stops cold when it's seated properly. So if it feels like it's was moving and then you've hit a wall... You're done.
The same trick of freezing the hub and warming the hub carrier and bearing works for getting the hub into the bearing too, BTW.