Wheels arrived yesterday

Eastep

Eastep

True Classic
:excited:.... but my lug bolts are both the wrong type and too short. What is the length of the factory bolts in mm? The sellers add said that
The distance from the mounting surface to the inside edge of the rim is 87mm. Will a set of universal aluminum wheel bolts from any chain type auto store work or do I have to search for bolts on line? What size bolts do I need?
 
lug bolts

...factory lug bolts for alloy wheels like the CD-91, are 50mm, plus or minus tolerances might see 50.32 or 50.12 ... thread length is 30mm.

What wheels did you get? Can you put up a picture of one that shows the mounting holes?
Some alloy wheels require a lug bolt with a tapered fitting; others require a flat washer and have no taper.

And you may or may not need spacers ...

And as advised by others, consider stud adapters and lug nuts. Makes for an easier on/off of the wheels. CD-91 had a locator stud which made fititng a wheel easier ... liing up the spacer holes to the hub ..e tc.

12 x 1.25 is the usual ... with a 19mm head.
 
here is some as reference

wombat said:
...

And as advised by others, consider stud adapters and lug nuts. Makes for an easier on/off of the wheels. CD-91 had a locator stud which made fititng a wheel easier ... liing up the spacer holes to the hub ..e tc.

12 x 1.25 is the usual ... with a 19mm head.
Click to expand...



http://www.serpentautosport.com/HTML/Hub Adapters and Spacers.html


lug nuts from serpent auto
smdiatunerlugnuts.jpg


studs / long lug bolts
stud20screws1.jpg
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Looks like no tapered seat on those wheels

I think you're going to need shanks type nuts with washers to hold those wheels on. To use a shank nut you'll have to convert to studs in the hubs. Measure the diameter of the hole in the wheel and get a nut that is a snug fit in the wheel.

671-60128.jpg

That's an example of a mag shank nut.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
to convert to studs, do I simply buy the studs in the desired lengeth ans screw them into the same hols the stock lugs go, and tighten with new bolts?
 
Yes

Use the type of studs in Ricardo's pic and screw them all the way in. If you want, you can use Loctite on them.

Studs with continuous thread are more difficult, because they don't seat - they have to be held in place with Loctite high-strength. If you screw them in too far, they will catch on the upright behind the hub - not good.
 
Listen to Ulix, Mike...

... and also... make SURE you have the correct LUG NUTS for those wheels.

Use a mic or some other means to insure that the COLLARED or TAPERED lug NUTS are the PERFECT fit for the holes. Your wheels are most PROBABLY "lug-concentric" so they are centered on the lug NUTS, not on the STUDS or on the HUB.

This next statement is probably NOT and issue but I wanna mention it anyway... Some TAPERED nuts and bolts have different ANGLES you MIGHT need to be concerned with. If you are using a tapered bolt or nut you need to insure the tapered angle MATCHES the the wheel's tapered hole. If you do not match the taper... especially in an alloy wheel, tightening the nut or bolt will MASH and DISTORT the hole and cause more problems like seizing the wheel to the studs!

Happy motoring...
 
How do I figure out what parts are right for me? The holes are completely flat with no taper at all. The mounting hub hole is huge, so it wont mount to the cars hub, and I test fit a stock lug bolt to see the length difference which is about 1 inch. Will NAPA or Carquest carry the mounting studs I will require?
 
Call Serpent Motorsports

Eastep said:
How do I figure out what parts are right for me? The holes are completely flat with no taper at all. The mounting hub hole is huge, so it wont mount to the cars hub, and I test fit a stock lug bolt to see the length difference which is about 1 inch. Will NAPA or Carquest carry the mounting studs I will require?
Click to expand...

Can't hurt to try NAPA and Carquest, but I'd call Serpent Motorsports, Ricardo posted a link to them up above.

Serpent will be able to make up a set of hub-centric rings in the right size to fit around your hubs and fatten them up to match the hole in the rims. You will need these if the rim opening is too large for the hub and the bolt holes are not tapered. Even with tapered bolt holes, they are very helpful (although if you're careful you can get a tapered-hole wheel centered well enough without them).

If you're using lug bolts, the length is critical; you need them long enough to thread all the way to the back of the hubs, give or take a thread or so... Any shorter and they won't engage enough threads to be safe, any longer and they'll project so far out the back that they'll foul on the calipers. If you're using the same spacers and rotors as stock, this is easy to check: pass a stock bolt through a stock wheel, see how much it projects out the back. Then try the same bolt in the new wheels, compare how much sticks out the back - you want to find bolts that will give the same back-side length as the stock bolt on the stock wheel.
 
maybe you'll need this

lntoyface.jpg


but you need to test before, install the studs and see the diameter on the wheel and the stud.
this nuts is very common, you can get on any tire shop, just be sure to get 1.25 x 12

maybe you'll need a 1 3/4 studs because the lug nut goes inside the wheel.

like this

img0089zq.jpg


if you need it let me know.
 
Eric is suggesting that you go...

... HUB CONCENTRIC, which is one way to go... but it will still require you to use lug NUTS that reasonably fit the holes in the wheel. You will want COLLARED lug NUTS.

I'm suggesting that you not concern you self with the HUB at all, and just use the lug NUTS as the centering mechanism... in other words, LUG CONCENTRIC, to center your wheels.

I also recommend you NOT concern yourself with lug BOLTS for the reasons mentioned earlier... and purchase LONG studs and the appropriate COLLARED lug NUTS in a 12 x 1.25mm size.

Again, you will need to mic the holes to be sure of the fit. If you are not able to do this, find a reputable dealer that can.

Best get the studs that are collared also so they can be screwed in tight (use Loctite anyway) without going too far and hitting the rotor and if the studs indeed prove to be too long, they can also be cut down to fit.

HTH...
 
Ricky... can you measure the outside...

... diameter of the lug nut where it fits into the wheel.

This might be a help to Mike.

All mine have fit perfectly and I use off the shelf (12 x 1.25mm) Acorn Lug Nuts on my Ansens. I bet they are standard... but who knows with those wheels Mike bought, or any other wheels for that matter.
 
did you change of mind?

I see here on the forum you are looking for a set of wheels here, there and everywhere.

How much do you want to invest for a nice set of wheels?

( I have a nice set of campagnolos with brand new tires or a nice set of CROMODORA DAYTONAS CD88 ) :excited:
 
I know what I want !

Maybe there are X'ers who don't know which wheels are the right ones.:sad:

For me, the only ones.:headbang:

 
Correct...

These are of aluminum alloy, so they are each 3 Lbs heavier (and stronger) than the originals. But they are new and they look as good as the original magnesium rims. (IMHO) Cost was $1,200 USD at the time I bought them plus another $600 for the Toyo RA-1's. A bit of an investment but I really like them and think they are worth it.
 
Yes they are worth it !

Congratulations for your choice.:clap:

These wheels fits best on an X1/9 !!!
 
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