Answers:
Answers:
Eric – Retracting the four (4) pistons for pad changes should be pretty easy, and it appears that it could be done in situ (although I have obviously never yet had the need to try this). Looks to me as if you could simply slide a broad bladed screwdriver in between the rotor and the old worn pad surface, and gently lever the pistons back.
Tony – The wheels are conventional 13” Daytona CD 31’s.
Matt - Each caliper has four (4) bleeder screws, two (2) of which end up pointing down and are not used. (This feature allows the same caliper to be fitted on either side of the car). When bleeding, I started with the top screws farthest away from the center of the car, bleeding these first, and then doing the ones closest to the centerline. Not really a big deal, and it does not take all that much more time or effort than to bleed the single OEM screw.
Having said this, I’ve never been confident that I have purged 100% of the air out of the X’s brake / clutch hydraulic systems. Over my 30 years of owning this car, I’ve repeatedly tried –all- of the known tricks: vacuum sucking at the caliper bleed screw, pressurization at the reservoir inlet cap, jacking one end or the other end of the car up high in the air – you name it, I’ve tried it. In spite of all of these efforts, the brake pedal still seems a bit too soft for my taste. In this regard, the new Wilwood calipers are no better than (nor worse than) the OEM calipers – my theory is that there’s still some tiny air bubbles which get themselves trapped within the master cylinders for the brake and clutch, so this issue is not down to the calipers.
Whoever first thought up the idea of mounting these cylinders up above the foot pedal box should receive a stern scolding.
How about starting a separate Technical thread here to discuss the bleeding of these systems? I’ve heard numerous X owners often complain about the pain-in-the-arse difficulty and frustration involved with this seemingly simple maintenance procedure!
Cheers - DM