Winter project "ALU. Vick Radiator"

[Greg (in Conn)]

But Greg aren't the Obert rads...

probably the last 2 on the planet if they are NOS and not actually recores sprayed black.

What happens once those are gone? I went in on that Obert buy long ago when they were down to last the 6 and looks like 2 more are showing now...

It's nice that someone is making a replacement, but is it better? If it's not a direct fit, why bother? I wonder if it's just an off the shelf item?

Vick's kit: $549.50 Aluminum, non-stock bleeder location, non-stock fans, non-stock hose connections, not for A/C cars.
http://www.vickauto.com/newstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_7_54&products_id=3385

C. Obert & Co.: $600 Stock radiator, stock bleeder, stock fan mounting, stock hose connections, also for A/C cars.
http://www.fiatplus.com/complete-radiator-pr-278369.html

For the $50.50 difference I would choose the stock one C. Obert & Co. sells. In fact I did several years ago and it's been great.

 

[roadbox]

..aren't the Obert rads...probably the last 2 on the planet if they are NOS and not actually recores sprayed black.

They are not actually NOS, but Asian copies. Thats not a bad thing IMO.

My observations...
The materials are a little thinner and lighter, less fins per inch, but the unit is identical in all dimensions to NOS. All the fittings are there and are accurately located: reinforced threaded bottom mounts, sensor hole, plug hole, bleeder hole, fans and a/c condenser studs. Though not NOS, they are 100% plug & play, and cool VERY well ...as I noted in my previous post, I bought one from Chris for my Scorp (same part as in the X, BTW) and I had to fit a warmer thermostat because it was so good.

John O.

 

[Greg (in Conn)]

Great info John and I agree...

Many of the NOS replacement Rads (at least from what I saw) were made in Taiwan from a company called Modine.

So there you have it...our X rad worries are over!

They are not actually NOS, but Asian copies. Thats not a bad thing IMO.

 

[roadbox]

Really how many times do you have to bleed the X...not an optimal location for sure but still very doable.

Sorry Greg, I have to disagree. One of the easiest tasks to accomplish on the X cooling system now becomes the hardest with the Vicks rad. Think about how you're going to have to bleed now, jack up the front, which is exactly the opposite of what you would want. Making the nose the highest point when bleeding the system encourages formation of an air bubble at the top of the rad. Optimum bleeding is as the designer/manufacturer intended, with the expansion tank at the highest point in the system and the bleeder at the top of the rad below it. The Vicks rad is not very thoughtfully designed, IMO.

John O.

 

[Greg (in Conn)]

John the design flaws are very obvious...

Like I said still doable and in this case you learn to make lemonade

I'll be eager to see how cool Yves runs now!

 

[abec]

Quick fix to help bleed this radiator

Replace the current bleeder with a simple hose nipple

Add the hose

Plug the hose with a bolt

And clamp the ends.

So please stop saying, oh its so terrible that they didn't make this bleed like stock. Personally I would much rather bleed out a hose into a bucket then all over my garage floor like stock. Rather then complain about problems, come up with solutions.

 

[Mathew27]

Hey guys, what a great write up Yves did.

To clear up a few things.

First we are terribly sorry that the US Post bent the mounting tab.
Second the radiator inlet and outlet are stock size we had them made that way. Remember old hoses can deform.

By the way the VAS Improvement Radiator is custom made right here in America.

When anyone needs one give me a call.

Thanks
Matt

 

[roadbox]

So please stop saying, oh its so terrible that they didn't make this bleed like stock.

You are welcome to disagree with me, but everyone has different standards and different expectations for money spent. For me, at $600, I expect that I don't have to cobble things together like I did when I was a teenager, which is what you've just illustrated with your hose, bolt, and hose clamp suggestion. I'm all for making things work, I promise, I've owned Fiats all my adult life so I know sometimes you have to do what you have to do, but when I've essentially paid someone else to do all the heavy lifting, I expect it done! And not half assed.

John O.

 

[Yves]

Be cool

When I bleed my car I just climb the ramp with 2 pieces of 2x6 x36 long, I slide under the car and open the bleeder. In that way the nose of the car is higher and voilà.... done.

Hey guys be cool :hug: it's only a radiator and it's me who bought it and I assume my purchase.

For your information Matt from VAS offer me to replace my hoses without charge.
That kind of customer service I appreciate.:sun:

 

[budgetzagato]

Thanks Matt

For clearing up the misunderstanding about the hose connections. Any information on why the bleeder and fan mounting aren't designed to fit stock locations?

Having no point of reference I can only assume these details would cost more, but without hearing from the source I'm only assuming... :huh:

 

[EricH]

Raising the nose?

When I bleed my car I just climb the ramp with 2 pieces of 2x6 x36 long, I slide under the car and open the bleeder. In that way the nose of the car is higher and voilà.... done.

Interesting... I've tried it both ways and found that it's easier with the car dead level and the reservoir tank cap off. That way the reservoir is the high point in the system, so the air under the bleeder in the radiator is naturally forced out as the water level in the rad rises.

Of course you have to sweep the air in all the other nooks and crannies and local high spots into the radiator before it can be bled out at all... but a few episodes of high-RPM operation with the heater on and thge water pump spinning as fast as it can will take care of that.

 

[Mathew27]

Clearing it up.

The simple answer is the radiator is a Performance Option.

This radiator works great. It is easy to install so you can certainly use it as a "stock" replacement.

Fans Mounting - The plastic pin method keeps the fan closest to the radiator to utilize the CFM. Also this keeps the weight down. And, yes, fabricating a fan mounting bracket for 2 fans word cost more and would lose some of the CFM because the fans would be about ½” off the radiator.

A/C Cars – To mount the AC components buy a set of plastic pin mounting hardware (about $5-10), get 4 "L" brackets, and 4 self tapping metal screws. Then mount the AC condenser back in front of the Radiator.

Burping the Radiator - I am able to reach under the nose of the car without raising the front end at all. So most people should be able to do the same as I am 6' and 250 pounds.

The main thing to remember is this Radiator is a Performance Option, but will work on your everyday car.

 

[roadbox]

Interesting... I've tried it both ways and found that it's easier with the car dead level and the reservoir tank cap off. That way the reservoir is the high point in the system, so the air under the bleeder in the radiator is naturally forced out as the water level in the rad rises.

Exactly!!!

John O.

 

[roadbox]

The simple answer is the radiator is a Performance Option.

Point well made.

John O.

 

[Yves]

Eric your absolutely correct,
the air bubble in liquide just follow the physical principle.
I climb the car because it's more easy to went under for bleeding.

Sometime it's difficult for me to exprime my idea in english... I need to translate in my head!:rolleyes2: Sorry for my bad english.