WTB: 128 Upper Engine Mount "Dogbone"

Jeff Stich

Jeff Stich

True Classic
I recently installed new (NAPA 650-1110 replacement) rubber bushings in my 128's upper engine mount "dogbone" (torque rod) which turned out well (BIG difference in road-feel), but I have a nagging feeling that I may have cut too much of the rubber out of the center of the old bushings before installing the replacement bushings. The new bushings have a sort of "hourglass" profile (lengthwise), so I'd like to retry this procedure on another rod leaving a little more of the old rubber in the center for support.

Anybody have an old/beat-up 128 upper dogbone/torque rod that they don't want?
 
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I have a short one and a long one for an X

that you are welcome to, but I don't know if either of them is right for the 128.

Pete
 
Another option if you feel you've removed too much of the old rubber bush you could fill the void with a caulk like material like liquid nails from home depot. Drill a couple 3/8 holes at opposing ends in the center of the dogbone and fill the void :)
 
I Have One For You

Hi Jeff, I have one for you, both rubber bushings are cracked but intact, should be a good candidate for rebuilding, send me a message with your mailing address and I'll send it to you.
 
zonker said:
Another option if you feel you've removed too much of the old rubber bush you could fill the void with a caulk like material like liquid nails from home depot. Drill a couple 3/8 holes at opposing ends in the center of the dogbone and fill the void :)
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'd actually thought of doing this very same thing shortly after I posted this. But with the tight-fitting uneven surface(s) on the inside (between the old bushing remnant & the new bushing), I'm not sure I'd have enough injection force to get the caulk into all the various nooks & crannies in there, yet still push all of the air pockets out. Maybe if I drill 4-8 evenly-spaced holes around the center perimeter, to create easier caulk-injection & air-escape ports...if so, I'd likely remove all of the old bushing, drill the holes, press in the new bushing & metal sleeve, then inject a larger amount of liquid urethane/caulk to completely fill the interior cavity between the new bushing & the dogbone's outer wall. :hmm:

I think I'll try another re-bush attempt using Dave's offered dogbone (which should theoretically give better results than my first attempt), swap that onto my car, then try the caulk-injection process on the other one. I'm also looking at other rubber or urethane bushings to use that might give a better fit within the dogbone ends, just haven't found such an easy & inexpensive off-the-shelf item like the 650-1110 bushing yet...
 
You're Welcome!

I'm curious to hear how well your bushing project works, I've never been impressed with the quality of the aftermarket mount bushings, the pins always shift to the side, allowing metal to metal contact.
 
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