making parts 3D printing

wonder if this will work better, added some reinforcement gussets (that I hope won't interfere with the lug bolts) and tapered the locking tabs and reduced the bump out round things a bit, haven't printed yet,
gussets_zpsb959abdf.jpg
 
Should be good...

But I would think the semi-circle bump-outs will be your best / easiest method of adjustment. Don't know for sure though. Nice work Jeff. :thumbsup:
 
Could you send me the Sketchup file? I would like to look at it and compare it to a OE stainless cap I have.

I can likely clean up a few things for you.

Karl
 
I would guess that the flexibility without breaking characteristic of the material being laid down by the printer would determine how much reinforcement is needed on the prongs with the Dolly Parton nubs.
 
kmead said:
Could you send me the Sketchup file? I would like to look at it and compare it to a OE stainless cap I have.

I can likely clean up a few things for you.

Karl
Click to expand...

I will send it over, it's a pretty messy file though so once again, NO LAUGHING!
Not sure if those fillets will help or hurt, the ABS is pretty flexible but it could just be i haven't gotten my printer settings nailed down yet either, layer bonding doesn't seem to be the greatest which would certainly effect how those tabs crack off too easily, maybe it just needs to be printed on a "good" machine
 
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CD-27s

jvandyke said:
Did logo as a separate inset, have a solid plain version, could do Cromodora/Bertone, custom, whatever.
Click to expand...

similar caps were on the CD27s but had the iconic b.

Easy glue on and would be a nice touch for the CD58 caps which is a stamped Bertone wheel...:nod:
something about those Cromodora script caps though...:cool:



 
One of the problems with most of these machines is that they apply the material in a way that ends up having a grain. The bummer about cylindrical parts is that the grain will tend to follow the cylinder outline which means that it will crack along the grain which in this case is right from fillet to fillet.

Your reinforcements will help but not prevent this cracking. As it is ABS one might consider using some ABS solvent to blend the material on the surface of the part.

I will fiddle around with the part hopefully tomorrow night. I wasn't able to get out to the garage to find one of my spun stainless caps. Hopefully on Saturday...
 
Yes, please play with it. I couldn't print it. Something is screwy with the file, it tries to print a miniature skirt and a little tower, then moves on to the main job but the bed doesn't come back up. No idea why it does that, bummer.
 
Jeff, can you heat it after the print?

Have you tried smoothing by running it by a heat gun?
 
Updated Cromodora Cap

This is my iteration of the cap (I haven't located one of my real SS caps yet but will look in the morning).

I changed the domed retention features to an alternative variation. The OE feature is likely the result of an easy to maintain punch and die which isn't related to what a plastic part would be.

I am sure there will still be problems with cracking, we will likely need to ease some of the features back a bit.

Cromodora%20Cap%20a.jpg

Cromodora%20Cap%20b.jpg


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3359580/Cromodora Cap.skp
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3359580/Cromodora Cap.stl
 
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In lieu of heat, a solvent applied to the faces of the part hopefully will strengthen the part and better bond the layers. A light sanding with 320 can make all the difference with this material. We make full on appearance models with these as the basis of the finished part. We do have excellent model makers :)
 
I'll Take 4 of These

To cover this ugly "fix" on my Cromodora CD3's.


PO stripped most of the hubs. Had to go to Studs to torque nuts to 65 f lb, just to hold them on.
Come to think of it, a variable depth might also be an option. I got some longer studs, so your "stock" version may not fit my application, unless I add more "spacers".

I have no idea "what" or "if" anything was ever supposed to be there, I just want something to cover that mess.
You give me a plastic part, I can make it look any way I want.

I've got a set of chrome Trim Rings from another application I'd like to try on the cromo's but I don't want to scratch them up when it doesn't even look like the rings will fit, anyway.

Brain Flatulence Idea!
 
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Those had a chrome hubcap over the lugs area. They were held on by the raised nubs on the wheel.

I don't have any of those wheels to measure. It would need to be a snap over design versus a snap in which these particular covers provide.
 
I'm going to try and print Karl's version later today. Looks WAY better then mine!!!

about 80% done, looking really good!
 
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Turned out nice. I haven't dared try to force it on the wheel yet though.
Here you can see the Z stepping I believe it's called, the layers, force on there and splits along the layers quite readily. There's also little voids in between the layers. I might try a acetone wash of some type, light wiping or a vapor treatment, not sure. I think I'll make a thin FIAT plate to on it, a Bertone B and maybe that Cromodora logo. Just for fun.
file_zps62586b9a.jpg

file_zpsad05f956.jpg

file_zpse04409b2.jpg
 
Nice.

Hopefully it won't just snap apart.

You might try to find some ABS glue for piping at Menards etc to sort of bath it with to unify the disparate layers and fill the voids. There are different versions, some are more viscous than others.

You might choose to sand down the bumps to reduce the interference between the part and the wheel to reduce the force on the layers. I should have thinned the legs the bumps are on so they might have flexed but I worried they would just snap.
 
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