Hi Brandon, after reading back through this thread I realize we are throwing a lot of info at you. And at times we may not fully explain things clearly.
First, as you found on the Midwest-Bayless site, the water pump is a two part affair. The "pump" (impeller portion) and the "housing" (what the pump mounts into). Actually it is three parts, the belt pulley comes off as well. The housing is bolted to the engine block, and the pump then rides in the housing. The impeller rides very close to the back of the housing when the two are assembled. The gap between them helps determines the impeller's effectiveness at pumping water. That gap can be adjusted either by the use of a different gasket thickness (between the two) or by moving the impeller position on the shaft. To measure and adjust this gap it is typically necessary to remove the housing from the engine. Unfortunately, due to the A/C compressor's mounts being located over the pump housing, the compressor needs to be moved out of the way to get the housing off. It may be possible to skip this and leave the housing (and A/C compressor) on the engine and not adjust the gap. In other words replace only the pump and not the housing. There are opinions on how critical this is...make your own decision here.
Second, removing the various components. To remove the pump with the housing left on the engine, the space between the pump and the car's body (chassis) is tight and might not leave enough room. I found that removing the pulley (V-belt drive) off the pump first (it bolts to the pump flange on A/C models...not on some others), you should be able to get the pump out. Otherwise the engine mount on that side (referred to as the "snail mount" due to its shape) can be disconnected and the engine lifted a little (jack from underneath) to get extra room. However removing the pump and its housing as a unit (not separating the two) avoids this, but now we are back to removing the A/C compressor. So it is something of a compromise either way, up to you what looks best.
By now you can see why this job is referred to as frustrating. After cutting up your knuckles, having some bolts get stuck/break, wrestling to move things past one another, dealing with rusted-on parts, etc you will understand why. And this is only the beginning, you still need to replace it all (hopefully with the correct parts) and figure out the drive belts, etc. But honestly it isn't that difficult and you should try doing it yourself. Think of it as paying yourself the $1000.
I'll leave it at this for now, but please ask more questions as you progress. I suggest you plan to do it in stages over a couple days time to avoid getting frustrated.
Hello Dr. Jeff and THANK YOU!
Wow! You are spot on with everything! I started this last night bearing in mind that I'm by no means a mechanic but I can usually tear just about anything apart and usually get it back together. I figured just what you said, I have more time than money and I'm going to own this X for many years and I'd rather struggle through this process but gain knowledge to understand how it works than pay a mechanic I don't trust to take his short at it.
I started by putting it up on jack stands and removing the rear right tire. I removed the plastic and metal shields inside the tire well for a better view up into the work area and allow more light in. Then I went up top and removed the aluminum air duct that runs over top of the pump, and the little bracket that holds it. I disconnected the fuel line that was going to be in the way as well. I removed the wall between the trunk and the engine, then the orange rubber air intake part, and realized the alternator must certainly come out. I wasn't able to trace where the alternator wires connect behind the engine/seats so I ran the wire over the top of the engine. Then I was able to unbolt it and after finagling it I was able to get the belt to slip off and set it to the left, out of the way. Next i removed the alternator bracket.
Then I took a break and cleaned all the parts that I took off. I put them on a workbench in the order that I removed them and made notes of the order of the process on paper.
I disconnected both of the coolant hoses that are under the car where they connect to the pipes that head to the front of the car, less than a quart of fluid drained from the first and none from the 2nd. (?)
Next I started to remove the water pump housing bolts, got three free and noticed a 4th behind the AC bracket, realizing that needs to come off now. I don't have a wrench that will fit that nut. I also noticed that the metal tube has two bolts, one that is facing me when I'm in the trunk, the other that I is impossible to get to with a wrench in it's current position.
I took a break and removed the rear panel where the muffler sits and connected a spring that I believe was making a vibration sound when sitting idle once in a while.
I'm going to see if my neighbor has a wrench for the two AC nuts; looks like it's designed to hold the top steady while turning the lower nuts to remove it. Then I'll remove the AC compressor and then the AC compressor mounting brackets followed by the 4th water pump bolt, then move it enough to get to that back bolt in the metal pipe that connects to it.
A few questions:
- Are there special wrenches for AC system nuts?
- What's the best way to flush the coolant system?
- The biggest question that I have: HOW do you get the belts on/off of these components? I was able to get the belt off of the pulley for the Alternator with work, and the AC has adjustments to loosen/tighten so I feel that I can get that one off, but I don't understand how to get the water pump belt off. Maybe when I loosen it it will tilt right towards the engine to get it off, but I don't understand how these will go bad on considering how tight the new ones will be. I'm straining from taking a utility knife to them to get them out of the way!
PS - I have the Chilton's guide and a shop manual; they seem to skip steps and lack enough photos for a neophyte like me!
Thanks to everyone that is helping me with this project! I've considered 3 times to just have the engine pulled and totally rebuilt replacing all these parts with new while it's on an engine stand, but I don't have the budget for that right now!
Thanks,
Brandon