Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Brandon, sounds like you are doing really well with this. Keep at it, it is frustrating but doable.
First, if the AC system is still charged with refrigerant it is pressurized. So when you loosen the hose fittings the pressure will blow out, leaking refrigerant which can be harmful. Most often the system has leaked all of the refrigerant out already so not an issue. But if it is still full, the "proper" way to empty it is to have a AC shop 'capture' it with a machine designed for this. However its not likely that you can get the car to them for this. Due to the refrigerant being a Ozone issue, it is illegal to let it escape into the air. But if that should accidentally happen, don't let it contact your face/skin...wear protective gear. An option to this is to leave the hoses attached and wrestle the compressor off its brackets and swing it out of the way with the hoses still connected (not convenient but avoids the refrigerant issue).
Second, the 2 bolts that connect that metal pipe to the back of the water pump are very difficult to reach...especially the one closest to the block. Try a thin-wall socket with a LONG extension and a ratchet way over from the thermostat end. Once you get them off consider replacing them with a different type bolt. They make bolts with smaller heads, this allows a smaller size socket and makes getting them back on much easier....see the difference:
Between the AC compressor issue and the water pipe issue, you see why I consider just leaving the water pump housing in place and only replacing the pump itself. That avoids all this. But like Karl said, "ideally" the impeller clearance should be checked between the pump and the housing.
As for your questions:
I'm not clear which 2 nuts on the AC you are referring to? Can you post a picture? There shouldn't be any "special" wrenches needed, but until I can envision which ones you are asking about I really can't answer.
In my opinion the cooling system should be flushed prior to replacing anything. But that may be too late, so not a big deal. In recent years (recent being relative to my age), the coolant system flushing products available on the market do not seem to work at all. There are lots of opinions as to how to do it, try searching the topic on Google for suggestions and choose what seems good for you. Others will not like my approach, its a bit aggressive (I use a strong acid product then neutralize and rinse it well).
Getting the belts off (and back on) is a genuine issue with the AC system design on the X1/9. It will partly depend on the year and options you have; for example California cars in '79 had additional smog equipment with even more belts that was a real nightmare. Plus there is more than one arrangement for the X's belts, despite all service manuals only showing one. So depending on which one you have it will differ. However, in general each belt has the ability to be adjusted (at least to a little extent). So if you get the sequence correct it will work. Its something of a puzzle; first one belt is adjusted and secured, then the next is adjusted and secured, etc. If they are not performed in the right sequence they it will not happen because each adjustment effects the next. Same for removal. This all depends on your system's design. If you can post pictures it will help to answer better. I found the system's design actually did not allow enough movement for a couple of the belts to be properly adjusted; either the belt was too short to get on, or too long to get adjusted enough. So I modified parts to allow a little more travel in adjustments. Made a world of difference. I also ended up using different sizes of belts than what's stated in the parts guides (I still think those listings are incorrect, NONE of the belts sold by the usual vendors were correct for mine). Others resorted to "stretching" the belts over the pulley lip (which isn't ideal). Furthermore, not all years have the "split" style pulley Dan refers to (mine does not). Some AC system cars are different and have various methods of adjustment for each belt (a VERY poor design of adjustment). So again, it depends on your system (pictures please).
Finally, you are correct, the available manuals are extremely deficient (or worse, incorrect) in this area (and many others). Others may disagree with that comment, just my opinion. That's all part of the "fun" of learning how to work on these cars.
First, if the AC system is still charged with refrigerant it is pressurized. So when you loosen the hose fittings the pressure will blow out, leaking refrigerant which can be harmful. Most often the system has leaked all of the refrigerant out already so not an issue. But if it is still full, the "proper" way to empty it is to have a AC shop 'capture' it with a machine designed for this. However its not likely that you can get the car to them for this. Due to the refrigerant being a Ozone issue, it is illegal to let it escape into the air. But if that should accidentally happen, don't let it contact your face/skin...wear protective gear. An option to this is to leave the hoses attached and wrestle the compressor off its brackets and swing it out of the way with the hoses still connected (not convenient but avoids the refrigerant issue).
Second, the 2 bolts that connect that metal pipe to the back of the water pump are very difficult to reach...especially the one closest to the block. Try a thin-wall socket with a LONG extension and a ratchet way over from the thermostat end. Once you get them off consider replacing them with a different type bolt. They make bolts with smaller heads, this allows a smaller size socket and makes getting them back on much easier....see the difference:
Between the AC compressor issue and the water pipe issue, you see why I consider just leaving the water pump housing in place and only replacing the pump itself. That avoids all this. But like Karl said, "ideally" the impeller clearance should be checked between the pump and the housing.
As for your questions:
I'm not clear which 2 nuts on the AC you are referring to? Can you post a picture? There shouldn't be any "special" wrenches needed, but until I can envision which ones you are asking about I really can't answer.
In my opinion the cooling system should be flushed prior to replacing anything. But that may be too late, so not a big deal. In recent years (recent being relative to my age), the coolant system flushing products available on the market do not seem to work at all. There are lots of opinions as to how to do it, try searching the topic on Google for suggestions and choose what seems good for you. Others will not like my approach, its a bit aggressive (I use a strong acid product then neutralize and rinse it well).
Getting the belts off (and back on) is a genuine issue with the AC system design on the X1/9. It will partly depend on the year and options you have; for example California cars in '79 had additional smog equipment with even more belts that was a real nightmare. Plus there is more than one arrangement for the X's belts, despite all service manuals only showing one. So depending on which one you have it will differ. However, in general each belt has the ability to be adjusted (at least to a little extent). So if you get the sequence correct it will work. Its something of a puzzle; first one belt is adjusted and secured, then the next is adjusted and secured, etc. If they are not performed in the right sequence they it will not happen because each adjustment effects the next. Same for removal. This all depends on your system's design. If you can post pictures it will help to answer better. I found the system's design actually did not allow enough movement for a couple of the belts to be properly adjusted; either the belt was too short to get on, or too long to get adjusted enough. So I modified parts to allow a little more travel in adjustments. Made a world of difference. I also ended up using different sizes of belts than what's stated in the parts guides (I still think those listings are incorrect, NONE of the belts sold by the usual vendors were correct for mine). Others resorted to "stretching" the belts over the pulley lip (which isn't ideal). Furthermore, not all years have the "split" style pulley Dan refers to (mine does not). Some AC system cars are different and have various methods of adjustment for each belt (a VERY poor design of adjustment). So again, it depends on your system (pictures please).
Finally, you are correct, the available manuals are extremely deficient (or worse, incorrect) in this area (and many others). Others may disagree with that comment, just my opinion. That's all part of the "fun" of learning how to work on these cars.
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