Dog Bone mount options

What about width of bushing ends? Will they drop in to the brackets? From the top view, they look narrower - but I can see the bush sleeve protrudes on either side...
Well crap. I measured the width of the adjustable ends, but didn't put it in the post. I want to say it was 1.5" width for the stock and 1.25" for the adjustable. You would definitely need to fill the gap with washers. I havevn't had a chance to do a test install. but the end of the adjustable fits well in the blocl end mount. (I have a 1300 on a stand, so that was easy to check). The mount of the rear frame rail looks smaller and may pose a fitment problem, but I need to test to see.

You are an "expert" on modifying stuff like this Hussein. Does this mount even look worth the effort of playing with?

I worked on mounting my new Allison 15" wheels instead. :)
 
Getting some standard brass spacer stock to fill the gap would likely be fine, particularly if you did it to each side of the proposed unit.

If you trimmed the side with the captive nuts you could possibly get into unslotted steel or add a third fastener through a new hole to hold it locked at a length. Either way it could get notably shorter.

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Nice find by the way.

There is this style too, but it was more expensive. I decided to start with the cheap, less fancy mount. This little shock absorber seems like it would be harder to modify. It says it adjust from 172mm (6,7"0 to 196mm (7.7"), but doesn't really say it that is hole to hole or overall length.
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If its narrower, as it appears to be that is definitely a plus - easier to add a couple washers than cut down the new bushings. Sounds like a viable option right now - it will all depend on how well it dampens at idle - that will be the taste test :D

I wouldn't bother with the shock style - many of them only have poly bushing inserts, so only effective for extreme damping in my experience. Hydraulic ones cost way to much for what is needed.
 
I wouldn't bother with the shock style - many of them only have poly bushing inserts, so only effective for extreme damping in my experience. Hydraulic ones cost way to much for what is needed.

Good to know Hussein! Being cheap saved me, I really wanted the cool looking shock thingy. :)
 
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Looks like a nice option Jim- good find. :):)
"it will all depend on how well it dampens at idle - that will be the taste test " This was my thought as well.
 
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Get some stainless steel allen bolts and it will be blingy enough. If you can get "ABARTH" etched into it so much the better.
 
I agree with @lookforjoe the "shock" thing isn't a good option. Most of them only have a spring or plastic insert, not a hydraulic damper. And they only respond in one direction (compression); normally they are fully extended and therefore don't comply to movement in both directions. I'd also be suspect of their integrity to hold up very long with the constant loads and vibrations.
 
On the general subject of engine mounts. I just read mention of a service that claims to rebuild any existing mount using polyurethane. I have no information on them, so no idea who they are or what they really do. Their only contact is a Facebook page (Performance Moldings), which I don't have access to. Maybe someone that's into social media can check them out better.
 
On the general subject of engine mounts. I just read mention of a service that claims to rebuild any existing mount using polyurethane. I have no information on them, so no idea who they are or what they really do. Their only contact is a Facebook page (Performance Moldings), which I don't have access to. Maybe someone that's into social media can check them out better.
I'm not on Facebook either, but here is their website:
 
I found a few minutes to pull the stock dog bone off my 85X to see if bushing end this adjustable dogbone thingy will fit into the stock mounts on an X. The answer is "Yes". I was afraid the diameter of the bushing would be a little too large for the X mount points, but the bushings do fit in and the cross bolt looks like it would be centered.
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The center whole in the bushing is too large and it already has a steel sleeve, so I am not sure what we could do about that. I suppose a smaller sleeve could be made to fit into the larger sleeve, but at what number of mods required does the juice no longer justify the squeeze?
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I found a few minutes to pull the stock dog bone off my 85X to see if bushing end this adjustable dogbone thingy will fit into the stock mounts on an X. The answer is "Yes". I was afraid the diameter of the bushing would be a little too large for the X mount points, but the bushings do fit in and the cross bolt looks like it would be centered.
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The center whole in the bushing is too large and it already has a steel sleeve, so I am not sure what we could do about that. I suppose a smaller sleeve could be made to fit into the larger sleeve, but at what number of mods required does the juice no longer justify the squeeze?
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The difference in diameters between the bolt and Nissan steel sleeves appears to be enough that another steel "inner" sleeve could be inserted, to take up the diameter differences. And it could be longer to reach the X's mounting fixtures on either side. Then the side gaps only need to be sufficient to keep the torque strut from moving too much side-to-side (although that really won't matter, it will settle to a spot and stay there). There are lots of choices in steel sleeves available. I use them to make lots of stuff. Or an alternative solution to the diameter differences might be to drill the holes in the X's mounts to the same size as the Nissan strut and use larger diameter bolts to mount it (use a bolt and regular nut instead of the stock captured nut).
 
I would definitely start by adapting this unit to fit the X, not adapting the X to this mount. It is for a fairly old car and, in a few years, its availability may be no better than the stock X mount. I need to shorten this mount before I worry about using it. I doubt I will find time work on it soon.
 
I would first see if some plastic/nitrile tube sleeving the bolt would do the trick - that's what I did with the Volvo bushes - I have 10mm & 12mm nitrile tube. I can always send you some cuttings if you check the Nissan bore size I can check the OD on the tube (since I don't recall the actual spec)

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I would put thick large steel washers on either side of the new dogbone, a large one to each side of the body ears or engine side mount and then use thick wall brass tube spacers trimmed to locate it so it can be tightened down properly
 
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I’ve been watching this thread with some interest lately as I’m looking at refreshing my mount as well. I’m actually surprised that our vendors don’t offer a poly replacement mount.
has anyone tried removing the old rubber and filling with polyurethane? Or perhaps making a mold for repeated use??
 
Apple Motors was selling one, but they are out of business now. I had to say because I looked for them last week... just to discover they close.
 
I’ve been watching this thread with some interest lately as I’m looking at refreshing my mount as well. I’m actually surprised that our vendors don’t offer a poly replacement mount.
has anyone tried removing the old rubber and filling with polyurethane? Or perhaps making a mold for repeated use??
I removed the rubber and replaced with polyurethane 90. I also replaced the rod with a tube welded 20mm lower than stock to fit my UT engine. Making a mold is not necessary. I used clay in the bottom to keep it sealed, and the center tubes in position, then poured the polyurethane. It is a good idea to use a vacuum pump to remove all air from the poly mixture before pouring to avoid air bubbles.
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