Russe11
True Classic
It looks to me like he was anticipating such questions and rolling his eyes...
Selling the X & Bought an 75 Datsun 280Z
- Thread starter lookforjoe
- Start date
It looks to me like he was anticipating such questions and rolling his eyes...
DanielForest
True Classic
No, he rolled his eyes because he sold his X to buy a Z. The question is Y.
Russe11
True Classic
I think He's making such fast prgress on the Z so he can give it an honest chance before the X hits the market.No, he rolled his eyes because he sold his X to buy a Z. The question is Y.
Then if he doesn't like it, he can change his mind and sell the fixed-up Z, instead.
(maybe this post will earn me an eye-roll of my own...)
lookforjoe
True Classic
Other sights in the South
He had a partner, but he broke a leg so is out of commission
He had a partner, but he broke a leg so is out of commission
Last edited:
kmead
Old enough to know better
Loving that shore setting.
lookforjoe
True Classic
View from the top of the cathedral
lookforjoe
True Classic
Still haven't figured out the Datsun wheel hub, so I bought a cheap universal wheel (Nardi/Personal/Momo) Boss kit HUB-N-2 that allowed me to use an old Nardi wheel I had stashed from the X1/9 parts car (@aarpcard - I couldn't recall your username 
). It's only 1/2" smaller OD than the Datsun wheel
I'll need to find a 48mm Datsun emblem to replace the Abarth emblem. This will do until I figure out a way to use the Datsun wheel.
New dash is here, so that will be on the agenda
). It's only 1/2" smaller OD than the Datsun wheelI'll need to find a 48mm Datsun emblem to replace the Abarth emblem. This will do until I figure out a way to use the Datsun wheel.
New dash is here, so that will be on the agenda
Last edited:
lookforjoe
True Classic
Fixed the mount points of the hatch louvres. Got rid of the sheet metal screws & used M5 rivnuts instead. No more rattles
Added closed cell foam to seal the mount points
Removed the rear bumper also. Mine had a bolt-on valance, not welded like many I've seen videos of. Must be a later issue thing
Added closed cell foam to seal the mount points
Removed the rear bumper also. Mine had a bolt-on valance, not welded like many I've seen videos of. Must be a later issue thing
kmead
Old enough to know better
Yes, it abandoned a lot of what made the Z handle well along with so much more. They went to a semi trailing arm rear suspension (used on the 510 on through the Maxima which is where the parts came from) which made them rather ugly at the limit ala Porsche/BMW. The body was not pretty, definitely of the time. I blame Nissan for the later X’s getting that abominable two tone paint scheme.
Tested: 1979 Datsun 280ZX Gets Luxurious
From the Archive: Introducing the new Z's Grand Luxury package and all that that entails.
www.caranddriver.com
Now a 300Z, that would be a later design I could really enjoy as a tourer. I have always loved the design. It was from a period when Nissan design was approaching car design from a product perspective, something Ital Design had also done with cars like the Isuzu Impulse.
What to Buy: 1990–1996 Nissan 300ZX
With a new Z on the way and the '90s back in style, we dig into the Z32-generation Nissan 300ZX.
www.caranddriver.com
lookforjoe
True Classic
More odds & ends - starting on the cooling system issues, and going to start laying out the AC fixes
Fan clutch blade has multiple stress cracks. Volvo used Aisin components up into the early 90's, so the fan blade will work once I remove the 'tangs". I want to try & fit a Volvo eFan & shroud, so I'll play with that first. At a glance it doesn't appear that I have sufficient depth (need 3.5-4" for the shroud). It may work if I use one of the shrouds that offsets the fan to the left.
Front crank seal is also leaking, so I should do that while I'm in here. Water pump is leaking underneath so that's coming out
T/stat housing long bolt to head did not feel good when I tried to loosen it - it had that spongy/stretchy feel that has always come before a snap. It's not leaking at the head, so I think I'll leave well enough alone & just remove the top cover to service the t/stat & gasket that is actually leaking.
Also cover is not bonded for the AFM (look familiar?) so I'll do the circuit cleanup before I silicone the lid in place
AFM to TB hose is still intact
Filter to AFM needs fixing or replacing
AFM connection will be replaced with the releasable version
AC condensor dimensions bascially 14" x 20". I ordered a 12x25", gives me a larger surface area
Remade the t/stat to block bypass hose. The original layout had a metal pipe that must have been discarded at some point. An overly long section of 1/2" heater hose was installed instead, which besides being to long was also not the correct ID. I used sections of the fiat EPDM hose from the original expansion tank on my 87, and QC fittings with a Volvo coolant bleed hose cut from a 740T lower rad hose
for some unknown reason, Nissan ran the distributor wires forward to the rad, makes no sense as it was only retained with a plastic clip to the upper rad hose from the factory. Mine clearly fell & hit the fan blades at some point. I think I'll re route it
Fan clutch blade has multiple stress cracks. Volvo used Aisin components up into the early 90's, so the fan blade will work once I remove the 'tangs". I want to try & fit a Volvo eFan & shroud, so I'll play with that first. At a glance it doesn't appear that I have sufficient depth (need 3.5-4" for the shroud). It may work if I use one of the shrouds that offsets the fan to the left.
Front crank seal is also leaking, so I should do that while I'm in here. Water pump is leaking underneath so that's coming out
T/stat housing long bolt to head did not feel good when I tried to loosen it - it had that spongy/stretchy feel that has always come before a snap. It's not leaking at the head, so I think I'll leave well enough alone & just remove the top cover to service the t/stat & gasket that is actually leaking.
Also cover is not bonded for the AFM (look familiar?) so I'll do the circuit cleanup before I silicone the lid in place
AFM to TB hose is still intact
Filter to AFM needs fixing or replacing
AFM connection will be replaced with the releasable version
AC condensor dimensions bascially 14" x 20". I ordered a 12x25", gives me a larger surface area
Remade the t/stat to block bypass hose. The original layout had a metal pipe that must have been discarded at some point. An overly long section of 1/2" heater hose was installed instead, which besides being to long was also not the correct ID. I used sections of the fiat EPDM hose from the original expansion tank on my 87, and QC fittings with a Volvo coolant bleed hose cut from a 740T lower rad hose
for some unknown reason, Nissan ran the distributor wires forward to the rad, makes no sense as it was only retained with a plastic clip to the upper rad hose from the factory. Mine clearly fell & hit the fan blades at some point. I think I'll re route it
JKIDD
Auto Addict
Good call as I broke mine. The threaded hole in the housing for the cap was split so I had to remove it. The long bolt corroded in the housing so I had to cut it apart until I could get what was left to spin & unthread from the block. Problem 2 is these housings are 75 & 76 only & impossible to find. I bought a later model 3 hole cap assy used. 1 hole was threaded larger, but I was able to drill out the sensor that was there & tap the brass housing to the correct size. Just had to rearrange the sensor locations to make it work.
Last edited:
lookforjoe
True Classic
Not much time today, so I cleaned the front of the engine a little, then went to the shop that allows me to use their equipment for a modest fee & mounted & balanced the new 205/50x15 tires to the new wheels (15x7, 4x114.3, 73.1 bore; Konig Rewinds)
Last edited:
JKIDD
Auto Addict
nice choice.....
Attachments
lookforjoe
True Classic
Thankfully ZcarDepot actually has a billet version of the entire housing, and/or individual components available. It's certainly not cheap, but it is an option.
Ah - I didn't catch that - mine are the same wheel that you have
wait, yours has a rear skirt of some kind? Can you show me more pics of it?
lookforjoe
True Classic
Doug - any chance you could trace the outline of the chain tool & add dimensions? I've been told I may need to tension the chain by moving the cam gear pin to an new hole, given it has 250K miles. I haven't checked the slack, but it would be handy to have the tool around