lookforjoe
True Classic
350Z will be here on Friday. Going to have to figure out where to store it
350Z? I must have missed something!
Wow, where did the 350 come into the picture? Feel I must have missed an episode.
Yea, where did this come from? If it functions perfectly and is registered and insured you can park it at my house...leave the keys with me, in case I have to move it, of course.
I hope you feel better soon.I wasn't planning on touching this for at least a year - I need to get the V8 into the Volvo pickup before I completely forget everything I've prepared for that
Once that's done, I'll start planning the V6 conversion
This coming week is shot, I tested positive with covid this morning. I feel like absolute s*** on a shingle. Somebody's crushing me in a vice, probably cuz I did that to the strut tube yesterday or the day before I can't remember now
Thank youI hope you feel better soon.
Transmission calculator:Drove the car about 35 miles today, there is still a vibration in the steering wheel - The only thing I hadn't changed yet was the column rubber joint, so I did that after work. The u-joint still feels nice & tight.
Also swapped out the 1/8" wheel spacers for 1/4" to get a better safety margin on the caliper clearance off the wheel hub
I also put a Delco Reman starter in after work.
There was already a reman in there
Needless to say the problem still exists. I don't understand why the ammeter shows a heavy draw when it clicks if the problem lies in the wiring. I'll put a new spade I=on the solenoid trigger next.
Another question - I can't figure out how the clutch MC cap comes off, it won't turn no matter if I try just turning, push down & turn, lift & turn. I don't want to break it. Seems to have tabs on the sides, but I don't see how they retain it
Also a Gearing question - I can't figure out what the speed in gear will end up as with the 6 speed CD009 vs. the 4 speed F4W71B
Can anyone help with figuring it out? This type of math makes my brain hurt. Currently, in 4th 60 mph = 3K rpm. I can map each gear @ 3K rpm if that helps, I don't know I'm assuming 5th will be like 4th now - 3K rpm @ 60mph. Based on that, I'd expect 6th to be around 70mph @ 3K rpm?
FD: 3.54:1
CD009 F4W71B
1st 3.78 3.321
2nd 2.32 2.077
3rd 1.62 1.415
4th 1.27 1.00
5th 1.00
6th .79
Man, Nissan effs up their steering wheels. I have always liked the Infiniti G35 coupes but that airbag steering wheel yecch.
I think you will have room for that electric fan you were thinking of using.
I think you will have room for that electric fan you were thinking of using.
Yeah, the rod can snap at the front with a poly bushing.. The trick setup for the Datsuns used to be an aluminum cup and nylon ball arrangement with a tapered boot over the whole thing.. Now they're doing this:Put the struts, torsion rods & swayer/links back on today. That was fun. The poly kit doesn't come with the front sway bar bushings (WTF?), so I put the old ones back, and put rubber instead of poly for the links. I've ordered the poly for the 18mm sway bar pivot. The torsion rods I have heard that the poly can damage the rods, since it cannot flex & pivot through the suspension travel arc. So, I put new rubber ones in.
Hopefully get the brakes on in the AM.
View attachment 73774
View attachment 73775
One might be able to use the Honda Civic/Element/CRV steering tie rod to make this. Akin to what I suggested a few weeks ago for the X radius rod arrangement.Yeah, the rod can snap at the front with a poly bushing.. The trick setup for the Datsuns used to be an aluminum cup and nylon ball arrangement with a tapered boot over the whole thing.. Now they're doing this:
View attachment 74607
Part Number: 224-2025
T/C Rods: Datsun Z, adjustable, ball socket type, bolt in, includes all hardware. Pair. New Style
Core required.
Price: $195.00
That L series Z straight 6 is a much smoother motor than the V6, Just saying. An RB20det or SR20det is a much better Nissan choice for a Z... Both well over 200hp in stock form..Thank you
Feeling just a little better today.
Car is here
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View attachment 74439
I agree that the L6 family would've been nice to stick with. The problem is that the older L6's are very expensive, and considering the age (and my negative personal experience with JDM purchases), I'm just not willing to invest all that time & energy to use a 90's drivetrain. The RB25DET is even more pricey - 8-10K for a drivetrain that is also more than 20 years old. The V6 is USDM, so easy to get parts for, makes around 300HP as is, comes with the CD009 trans, has all the EMS. It's a no-brainer for me.That L series Z straight 6 is a much smoother motor than the V6, Just saying. An RB20det or SR20det is a much better Nissan choice for a Z... Both well over 200hp in stock form..
That's the clutch slave line (brake hoses were already replaced) - yes, I'm replacing it - last week I couldn't get the clutch master reservoir cap off, so I let it be. I just don't like the way they installed it all tensioned like that. Clutch operates just fine.That third picture suggests you should replace the rubber brake hoses before driving this bomb. Are those cracks throughout the line?