Selling the X & Bought an 75 Datsun 280Z

[lookforjoe]

350Z will be here on Friday. Going to have to figure out where to store it

 

[dllubin]

350Z? I must have missed something!

 

[KBabcock]

Wow, where did the 350 come into the picture? Feel I must have missed an episode.

 

[carl]

Yea, where did this come from? If it functions perfectly and is registered and insured you can park it at my house...leave the keys with me, in case I have to move it, of course.

 

[lookforjoe]

350Z? I must have missed something!

Wow, where did the 350 come into the picture? Feel I must have missed an episode.

Yea, where did this come from? If it functions perfectly and is registered and insured you can park it at my house...leave the keys with me, in case I have to move it, of course.

A neighbor of mine is also an old car buff - he stops by routinely to see what I'm up to. a month or so ago, he told me his wife's uncle had this 2006 350Z (6 speed manual) that won't pass RI 2 year inspection due to rust in the rear subframe/chassis. He has had the car since new & has maintained it through out. He just recently put new Brembo's on it, not that I can use them. Anyway, he told his uncle that he had a potential buyer. I'm getting it for less than it would cost me to buy a good engine & CD009 transmission, nevermind all the odds & ends that will make my life easier transplanting this into the 280Z . On top of that, he's delivering it for me

 

[carl]

Some folks are just born lucky. When are you having a stripping party followed up by a Sawzall party the next day.

 

[lookforjoe]

I wasn't planning on touching this for at least a year - I need to get the V8 into the Volvo pickup before I completely forget everything I've prepared for that
Once that's done, I'll start planning the V6 conversion

This coming week is shot, I tested positive with covid this morning. I feel like absolute s*** on a shingle. Somebody's crushing me in a vice, probably cuz I did that to the strut tube yesterday or the day before I can't remember now

 

[dllubin]

I wasn't planning on touching this for at least a year - I need to get the V8 into the Volvo pickup before I completely forget everything I've prepared for that
Once that's done, I'll start planning the V6 conversion

This coming week is shot, I tested positive with covid this morning. I feel like absolute s*** on a shingle. Somebody's crushing me in a vice, probably cuz I did that to the strut tube yesterday or the day before I can't remember now

I hope you feel better soon.

 

[lookforjoe]

I hope you feel better soon.

Thank you
Feeling just a little better today.
Car is here

 

[kmead]

Drove the car about 35 miles today, there is still a vibration in the steering wheel - The only thing I hadn't changed yet was the column rubber joint, so I did that after work. The u-joint still feels nice & tight.





Also swapped out the 1/8" wheel spacers for 1/4" to get a better safety margin on the caliper clearance off the wheel hub



I also put a Delco Reman starter in after work.



There was already a reman in there



Needless to say the problem still exists. I don't understand why the ammeter shows a heavy draw when it clicks if the problem lies in the wiring. I'll put a new spade I=on the solenoid trigger next.

Another question - I can't figure out how the clutch MC cap comes off, it won't turn no matter if I try just turning, push down & turn, lift & turn. I don't want to break it. Seems to have tabs on the sides, but I don't see how they retain it




Also a Gearing question - I can't figure out what the speed in gear will end up as with the 6 speed CD009 vs. the 4 speed F4W71B

Can anyone help with figuring it out? This type of math makes my brain hurt. Currently, in 4th 60 mph = 3K rpm. I can map each gear @ 3K rpm if that helps, I don't know I'm assuming 5th will be like 4th now - 3K rpm @ 60mph. Based on that, I'd expect 6th to be around 70mph @ 3K rpm?

FD: 3.54:1

CD009 F4W71B

1st 3.78 3.321
2nd 2.32 2.077
3rd 1.62 1.415
4th 1.27 1.00
5th 1.00
6th .79

Transmission calculator:

https://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php

Let your computer’s brain hurt.

 

[kmead]

Thank you
Feeling just a little better today.
Car is here
View attachment 74438

Man, Nissan effs up their steering wheels. I have always liked the Infiniti G35 coupes but that airbag steering wheel yecch.

This one looks slightly better. The designer for this wheel had one job and this is what they chose? Geez

Glad you are feeling better. So far so good for me

 

[kmead]

Thank you
Feeling just a little better today.
Car is here

View attachment 74439

I think you will have room for that electric fan you were thinking of using.

 

[lookforjoe]

I think you will have room for that electric fan you were thinking of using.

Yes indeed!

Today I removed the fusible links, and rewired the two circuits. The first link was fed directly from the starter, then that feeds the main shunt, then that feeds a connection somewhere under the dash, that then comes back & goes through the 2nd link.

So, I eliminated the feed from the starter to the fusible link #1. Ran a new feed from the battery to the secondary panel, then added the output from the fusible link to the main shunt to a fused connection.

Added a Maxi fuse to replace the second fusible link

secured the Maxi fuse holder to the cover.

While I had the harness open, I decided to add the H/L relays. The high beams didn't work at all, until I futzed with the connectors under the column - the withe one on the bottom left, and the black spade. Offloading this circuits seems like a very good idea

Cut 4 wire circuit to headlights - Red: R/S +, Red-Yellow: L/S +, Red-White: High Beam, Red-Black: Low Beam

relays fitted under relay box

Harness spliced - original bulb feeds now feed relay coils for H & l

added the fused relay feed (30) - need to get more lower amp fuses though, all I have left are 50Amp, so I'll swap that out later

function test before wrapping

wrapped

cleaned up starter connections, just main cable & (30) to starter relay

 

[Lowtechprime]

Put the struts, torsion rods & swayer/links back on today. That was fun. The poly kit doesn't come with the front sway bar bushings (WTF?), so I put the old ones back, and put rubber instead of poly for the links. I've ordered the poly for the 18mm sway bar pivot. The torsion rods I have heard that the poly can damage the rods, since it cannot flex & pivot through the suspension travel arc. So, I put new rubber ones in.

Hopefully get the brakes on in the AM.
View attachment 73774
View attachment 73775

Yeah, the rod can snap at the front with a poly bushing.. The trick setup for the Datsuns used to be an aluminum cup and nylon ball arrangement with a tapered boot over the whole thing.. Now they're doing this:

Part Number: 224-2025
T/C Rods: Datsun Z, adjustable, ball socket type, bolt in, includes all hardware. Pair. New Style
Core required.
Price: $195.00

 

[kmead]

Yeah, the rod can snap at the front with a poly bushing.. The trick setup for the Datsuns used to be an aluminum cup and nylon ball arrangement with a tapered boot over the whole thing.. Now they're doing this:
View attachment 74607
Part Number: 224-2025
T/C Rods: Datsun Z, adjustable, ball socket type, bolt in, includes all hardware. Pair. New Style
Core required.
Price: $195.00

One might be able to use the Honda Civic/Element/CRV steering tie rod to make this. Akin to what I suggested a few weeks ago for the X radius rod arrangement.

Already has a boot and sealed against weather. The big question is does it have the range of option required.

The tubular section of the assembly could allow placing a threaded section leading to the Datsun part. The part is designed to have the tubular section spin in the ball joint or adjustment.

On the Honda it is a long component so its range of motion may not match what is needed by the Datsun suspension arrangement.

Just a thought.

 

[lookforjoe]

Finally got back to the front end - removed the torsion rods & flipped the cone washers, moved the flat washer to the front side, installed one poly bush on the forward face, added a hardened washer under the nut I used the insert tube from the poly kit, it is slightly longer than the stock version used with only rubber. Torqued to 44ft/lbs. I'll consider a fixed balljoint rod if this doesn't do the trick.







Didn't get to drive it, the rain is coming down too hard. I'll find out if that resolved it



I added 3M tape to secure the bumper rubbers, they don't sit completely flat otherwise

Stashed in the garage for the night

 

[Lowtechprime]

Thank you
Feeling just a little better today.
Car is here
View attachment 74438
View attachment 74439

That L series Z straight 6 is a much smoother motor than the V6, Just saying. An RB20det or SR20det is a much better Nissan choice for a Z... Both well over 200hp in stock form..

 

[lookforjoe]

That L series Z straight 6 is a much smoother motor than the V6, Just saying. An RB20det or SR20det is a much better Nissan choice for a Z... Both well over 200hp in stock form..

I agree that the L6 family would've been nice to stick with. The problem is that the older L6's are very expensive, and considering the age (and my negative personal experience with JDM purchases), I'm just not willing to invest all that time & energy to use a 90's drivetrain. The RB25DET is even more pricey - 8-10K for a drivetrain that is also more than 20 years old. The V6 is USDM, so easy to get parts for, makes around 300HP as is, comes with the CD009 trans, has all the EMS. It's a no-brainer for me.

 

[carl]

That third picture suggests you should replace the rubber brake hoses before driving this bomb. Are those cracks throughout the line?

 

[lookforjoe]

That third picture suggests you should replace the rubber brake hoses before driving this bomb. Are those cracks throughout the line?

That's the clutch slave line (brake hoses were already replaced) - yes, I'm replacing it - last week I couldn't get the clutch master reservoir cap off, so I let it be. I just don't like the way they installed it all tensioned like that. Clutch operates just fine.