Selling the X & Bought an 75 Datsun 280Z

[carl]

OK, I can sleep at night now.
My last Datsun experience was in the late 70s helping my soon to be wife's idiot girlfriend to get her Datsun B210 running right. I spent a whole afternoon trying to get it running and wondering why the exhaust smelled so bad...........she then tells my she had put diesel fuel in by accident. I still get migraines about that day.

 

[Bjorn Nilson]

Visited a friend's garage today and thought you might be interested. He was preparing his 240z for next weekend's race.
I didn't realize that the engine is very like our SOHC. I expect an X-flow under the bonnet .
This one is fast.

 

[darwoodious]

Transmission calculator:

https://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php

Let your computer’s brain hurt.

I found/modified an excel spreadsheet that shows road speed at engine RPM. wanted to see what the K20 will do with correct sized tires. I can't attach it here but I can do a read-only link from my OneDrive account

RPM to MPH Manual K20_X1-9.xlsx

Microsoft Excel Workbook

1drv.ms

 

[lookforjoe]

Finally got back to this - assembled & installed the rear bumper today. I test-fitted it yesterday & marked the 2 drill locations for the side attachments. Primed & painted the holes prior to assembly. Had to do it jammed in the garage, it rained all day.

I had to retap both the side captive nuts - neither would accept the M12x1.25 bolts.

Also had to use 3M VHB tape to secure the rubber strips - otherwise they 'flop' away from the bumper in-between the mount studs. I had removed the fronts & done the same previously. The vendor claims you just have to pull the rubber & then tighten in place. That would work if the bolt holes were elongated, which they are not.



The right side I had to shorten the bolt & grind the tip to a point to guide it into the bumper bracket. Not much room given the gas tank proximity





Made sure both sides were level - holes were about 9" down from the side molding, and about 5.5" forward of the existing bumper side mount captive nut





My phone is fk'd - makes it difficult to gauge what I'm shooting. been waiting a week now for a shipping notice on the replacement from Google FI

 

[lookforjoe]

Took out the glovebox today, so I could see what's back there regarding the heater & AC



pulled the blower housing, made it very easy to access all the heater hoses. Needs a good clean anyway.





Heater core out.



bulkhead fitting removed, M4 rivnut in place to retain the AN line fitting



turns out the aluminum bracket/fitting has identical spacing to factory, makes things easier. Just have to drill the center hole to match the factory cover plate shown





All kinds of crusty 'plastic' laying in the box - it seems the heater core end tanks were encased in it

 

[lookforjoe]

So to continue with my version using the escort heater core (thanks to Capt. Obvious on ClassicZ) I ordered the heater valve mentioned by another -4 Seasons 74627 - but it didn't arrive until late this evening, so I dismantled the original & had a go at fixing it following the other thread on ClassicZ

Think it's pretty clear why the heat never shut off



I forgot to take pics of the re-assembly, I used a Viton o-ring in place of the square cut outer seal, I left the inner one alone. Left it set on an angle filled with fluid to check for leaks.

I flipped the I/O for the heater hoses - the bulkhead upper is now the return & the outer/lower is the feed. I did it this way so that the feed is not too short, and the return is a straighter run. and so the inside feed is a plain elbow 90º. Determining hose lengths here. An -10 fittings. SS pipe length is 20.5".



dogleg for the other end, test fit alignment of pipe & hoses



Hoses cut & clamped (head fitting was removed, de-rusted, sealed & reinstalled, slight offset change -more vertical



Far end adjusted & clamped





With that end out of the way, I returned to the heater valve & core (91-02 Ford Escort). Eyeballed holes for core pipes, based on the core being centered Core sizing comparison pics (copper version, slighlty smaller core than the aluminum). Added closed cell foam on the sides to make it snug, and to the front to keep it pushed all the way in & cover up the old pipe holes.

Was playing with hose routing - this way was to allow the 74627 straight pipe valve to sit above the feed pipe





along these lines



I'll revert to this layout if I need to switch to the 74627 valve



When it became clear that the 74627 wasn't coming , I switched gears & worked on fitting the original repaired valve -

Heater valve fitted using the upper existing mount screw, new hole drilled in plate. Cut a notch in the valve mount bracket to clear the lower screw. Checked that flap can open.

Feed hose clamped. Cable attached & function tested.



Test fitting (formed, Volvo) hoses to & from heater valve



Added oetiker clamps after this. Since I wasn't able to flare the end of the core tubing, I prefer them as the clamping is typically more uniform than a worm clamp of any type.

 

[lookforjoe]

Couple days ago I re-pinned the center console harness connections

added some low temp electrical grease

Started pulling apart the rear suspension after work today. Had to remove the exhaust first - since it's all one piece from the DP flange to the tailpipe, I cut it behind the cat. I'll add a junction there - maybe a V-band, or just a sleeve clamp. Ultimately the whole exhaust will be custom with the VQ35DE anyway. Looked over the undercarriage in general since this is the first time I've been under the back end

Control arm bushing are all bad

Tapered pin that retains the outer control arm bolt

They came out without any drama. I had ordered new main bolts & these, as they typically are a problem. Murphy's Law - if I hadn't bought the new hardware, I would have needed it..

Damper on diff mount/control arm forward bracket had stripped bolts

The diff mount is an absolute PITA to remove - the retaining bolt heads cannot be accessed with a socket - the lower half of the mount interferes. They also don't thread into the casing -there are 17mm head nuts that have to be counter held.

had to re-tap to M10x1.5 , to avoid replacing the captive nuts or helicoils

exhaust - still has the original shielding

Shield over rear bumper shock

original rear hanger

cut just behind cat

Floors

Poorly installed fuel feed hose - pretty heavy kink

Limiter strap over top of diff snout

Hopefully get more done on it tomorrow

 

[lookforjoe]

Trying to figure out which way to go with the rear exhaust section. Ultimately, it will have the VQ35DE, so that will require a Y off the headers into a single rear section.

So, since the front dual exhaust will all be 2.5" (once the VQ35DE is fitted), would it behoove me to make the rear section 3" after the Y, or can I get away with 2.5"? This will be staying NA.
It will be easier for me to fit 2.5" without much loss of ground clearance. 3" may present issues.

The plan is to make it modular - L & R headers - dual cats - Y - single exhaust/resonator/muffler/tailpipe
So, for now, I want to make the rear section that will fall after the Y large enough that I can just fabricate the front section for the V6 when the time comes. The current exhaust is all 2"
Unless keeping it 2.5" after the Y will create significant performance issues, that would be my preference.
Thoughts?

 

[lookforjoe]

Did the mustache bar bushings and the inner control arm bushings. If I can't extract the outer c/arm bushings in-situ tomorrow, I'll have to drop the arms entirely. Forward bushings are longer than the rears.

For mustache bar, the original bushing sleeves need to be kept, so I holesawed the rubber out & wire brushed the sleeve of residual rubber

rear bushing sleeves came off with just a little soaking. Didn't take the time to clean the diff cover at this time.

old remnants

 

[nichol01]

Looked over the undercarriage in general since this is the first time

I was waiting for some under car pics. Looks like you found a great candidate for restoration. Very rust free. Looking forward to watching this thread. Great work as always.

 

[kmead]

Trying to figure out which way to go with the rear exhaust section. Ultimately, it will have the VQ35DE, so that will require a Y off the headers into a single rear section.

So, since the front dual exhaust will all be 2.5" (once the VQ35DE is fitted), would it behoove me to make the rear section 3" after the Y, or can I get away with 2.5"? This will be staying NA.
It will be easier for me to fit 2.5" without much loss of ground clearance. 3" may present issues.

The plan is to make it modular - L & R headers - dual cats - Y - single exhaust/resonator/muffler/tailpipe
So, for now, I want to make the rear section that will fall after the Y large enough that I can just fabricate the front section for the V6 when the time comes. The current exhaust is all 2"
Unless keeping it 2.5" after the Y will create significant performance issues, that would be my preference.
Thoughts?

They do make 3” Y back to the muffler which starts at the tail piece of the transmission.

3" Catback Sytem for Datsun 240z 260z 280Z S30 | eBay

This Catback Is a Proprietary Design, Fits Our S30 Chassis Swap Kits and Systems. It Is ONLY Compatible with Our Products. 3" Catback System (2 Pcs Set) for 240Z/260Z/280Z S30 Chassis. Chassis: Nissan/Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z S30 Chassis (Does NOT Fit 280ZX S130 Chassis).

www.ebay.com

 

[lookforjoe]

Dropped the struts/hubs after work, no drama. All drum brake parts removed. I don't want to hack up the back plates, so I'm going to pull the spindles.



This Volvo tool (999-2846) intended for old RWD prop shafts fit the Z U-Joint









Hopefully I'll have the hubs apart tomorrow, and replace the strut inserts and coil springs

 

[lookforjoe]

They do make 3” Y back to the muffler which starts at the tail piece of the transmission.

3" Catback Sytem for Datsun 240z 260z 280Z S30 | eBay

This Catback Is a Proprietary Design, Fits Our S30 Chassis Swap Kits and Systems. It Is ONLY Compatible with Our Products. 3" Catback System (2 Pcs Set) for 240Z/260Z/280Z S30 Chassis. Chassis: Nissan/Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z S30 Chassis (Does NOT Fit 280ZX S130 Chassis).

www.ebay.com

I saw that late yesterday when looking - so 3" should fit under the crossmember OK. The only downside is I already have a couple nice 2.5" I/O mufflers from the X1/9 noise trails (following Rodger). I could run 3" pipe from the tunnel (where the Y would fall), make a step adapter on one of the 2.5"mufflers. That way, DTR, I can always just swap out the muffler for a 3" I/O to go with the VQ35DE drivetrain. The L28 certainly doesn't need it.

 

[lookforjoe]

Also dropped the (aftermarket) fuel pump & feed hose today. I don't like the way the pump is fitted either.



redrilled the mount plate to move the (new Bosch) pump up & out the way somewhat, adding Quick -Release fittings, to get rid of the large loop





Volvo fuel hose 1312257 11.5mm ID sold by the meter





Have to fit the pulse damper above. I won't need it with the VQ35DE install, so I'm going to make it easier to remove

 

[kmead]

Also dropped the (aftermarket) fuel pump & feed hose today. I don't like the way the pump is fitted either.

Is there enough run to put an inline filter in or are you at all concerned given what you have found in the lines relative to rust etc?

I have seen you use these quick disconnects in the past, where do those come from?

 

[JKIDD]

Is there enough run to put an inline filter in or are you at all concerned given what you have found in the lines relative to rust etc?

I have seen you use these quick disconnects in the past, where do those come from?

Let me guess, A Volvo????

 

[lookforjoe]

I bought inline filters- but both had the wrong OD pipe. I want one there, even though there is no evidence of crud in the system.

Thought I was getting one the same as this

Volvo uses the QR fittings for a variety of fuel & cooling/heating applications, but this particular style I buy either off eBay or on Aliexpress, much cheaper that way

Standard fuel size for most 4 cylinder applications would be 6.3mm ID I've bought a range of larger versions to use for heater fittings on the V8, and for the larger fuel lines on that also - for 10mm ID hose and 12mm ID hose, and some even larger

Is there enough run to put an inline filter in or are you at all concerned given what you have found in the lines relative to rust etc?

I have seen you use these quick disconnects in the past, where do those come from?

Let me guess, A Volvo????

 

[kmead]

I bought inline filters- but both had the wrong OD pipe. I want one there, even though there is no evidence of crud in the system.
Volvo uses them for a variety of applications, but this particular style I buy either off eBay or on Aliexpress, much cheaper that way

Standard fuel size for most 4 cylinder applications would be 6.3mm ID I've bought a range of larger versions to use for heater fittings on the V8, and for the larger fuel lines on that also - for 10mm ID hose and 12mm ID hose, and some even larger

That opens a whole new world. Thanks!

I notice you have used the nylon hose in the past, do you have a tool for assembling the nylon line to these connectors?

I see things like these: https://hackaday.com/2022/05/11/caulking-gun-becomes-useful-press-tool-for-fuel-line-fittings/ or similar as a low cost way to press the fittings in.

 

[lookforjoe]

That opens a whole new world. Thanks!

I notice you have used the nylon hose in the past, do you have a tool for assembling the nylon line to these connectors?

I see things like these: https://hackaday.com/2022/05/11/caulking-gun-becomes-useful-press-tool-for-fuel-line-fittings/ or similar as a low cost way to press the fittings in.

I bought this one last fall, however I have always just done it by hand - either tap the barb in to the tube by hand, or hold the tube in a brake line flare tool & tap the barb in that way. Worked fine for all the straight & 90º fittings. Not so much for 45º, 60º etc., so I broke down & bought the tool.

 

[lookforjoe]

Finished up the fuel pump/pulse damper install today

Used some preformed nylon line cut from a Volvo, mostly likely. That put the pulse damper where it needed to be to connect to the feed hard line







With that figured out, I made a bracket to support it welded to the fuel pump bracket



hook up the pump wires before installing the assembly





All up out the way now



Installed the correct return line , that was also the wrong ID