1603cc engine build

rjplenter said:
I carefully dressed the surfaces, then placed (not bolted) the two case halves together with a bright light inside and checked for light leaks. It looked good.

A new gasket and Permatex RTV sealant was used, and then the two halves bolted together with studs and nuts.

I sealed the plugs in the bellhousing, replaced the oil ring on the reverse idler shaft then made a cap to go over the end anyway. Shift rod and input shaft seals were replaced and the axle boots are almost new. The reverse switch was taken out and rewired and then put back in with sealer.

There's quite a puddle of Redline under the car, so I gotta figure out what's happening so I can concentrate on fine tuning the engine.

Cheers,

Rob
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Hey Rob,

congrats again on the fact that the car is running so well. After the extensive and complicated modifications, I'm really surprised that everything went so smoothly.

Given that you probably want to enjoy driving now rather than dismantling the gearbox, it might be worth simply switching to the standard SAE 90 GL-1 oil which will probably leak a lot less. I think many people have reported leaking when switching to Redline.

This is what I'm currently running:

https://www.kroon-oil.com/en/catalogue/product/832/vintage-gear-90/1142/

34544.png

Cheers,
Dom.
 
Try adding UV dye to the oil specifically designed to help locate oil leaks-seepage.

Another possible alternative is to clean the transaxle housing really well, then pressurize the transaxle housing with not more than 15psi. If there is a leak, the leaking area should gush oil under pressure. Make up a fitting to allow a regulated air pressure hose connect to the filler plug and block off the case breather on the end cap.

If anaerobic sealer is used instead of the gasket, know the diff carrier bearing pre-load will need to be adjusted to the smaller casing distance. Taper roller bearing life will be impacted if the pre-load is not properly set.

IMO, find the leak using UV dye or pressurized housing and address that gusher as needed.

As for oil used being the cause of the problem leak, no, plain no on that moto myth.


Bernice
 
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Got to agree with Steve on this. Silicon gasket goo is prohibited in the shop. This stuff has caused more moto grief than most would know.

For anaerobic we have used Loctite 518 with good results:
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797713170433

Loctite 515:
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797713137665

BTW, non GM saab transaxles are put together using anaerobic sealer, they are no fun to take apart.


Bernice


fiatfactory said:
I don't like silicone on gaskets exposed to oil (and especially oil that can become fuel impregnated like with a sump gasket) ... it has very low adhesion to oily surfaces, and when you're assembling a transmission you tend to get oil on mating faces of the casing. The same with most cleaning solvents....so unless you wiped all the mating faces off with something like Isopropyl, the residues of most cleaning solvents also act as a release agent for silicone...

Loctite 515 ... best stuff ever for a leak free motor and trans, as long as you never need to take it apart again.

SteveC
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rjplenter said:
I always use a gasket. Maybe that will make the box easier to split in the future if I use the 515?
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Unfortunately not... as it will bond so tightly between each side of the gasket and the casing, that when you split the case (if you ever need to) it will cleave the gasket in two, right down the centre...leaving half stuck to each casing half!

Just do it right this time and you will never have to split the case again...

I have used it to seal sumps, and once on an X19 with a paper gasket wanted to get the sump off... took a LOT of persuasion for the seal to break and the sump to finally move! I swear you could drive around with all the bolts out and it wouldn't budge.

SteveC
 
I have no doubt it is the right sealant to use. I'm just hesitant because I know these gearboxes are not bulletproof. But, I am so sick of leaking oil everywhere!!! :mad::mad::mad:
 
dcioccarelli said:
Hey Rob,

congrats again on the fact that the car is running so well. After the extensive and complicated modifications, I'm really surprised that everything went so smoothly.

Cheers,
Dom.
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I'm pleasantly surprised myself Dom!!! :) You're right, lots of mods, but I think the theory was sound. But I was very relieved when it fired into life.

Here's some 7,000rpm action. This is with my long 3.76 diff remember, so it's getting up to (and just a tad over) the speed limit pretty quickly. Another couple of hours of running and I'll take to 8k. :D


This is my first attempt with a GoPro and it looks pretty crummy. I think I need to learn how to use it.

Cheers,

Rob
 
but the $64,000 question is:

Is the trans leak fixed?

Sounds nice up to 7k and looks like it has great pull in the next gear ...and just a 'wee' bit quicker than it was when a 1300 four speed...

SteveC
 
Oh hells yeah, sounds great! As far as new tech gadgets go it's always an M.C. Escher-esque spiral staircase of settings on the camera, settings on the import, settings on the editing software, settings on the export......AAAARRRGGH!
 
fiatfactory said:
but the $64,000 question is:

Is the trans leak fixed?
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No, but I think this morning I isolated the current leak to the speedo cable drive.

fiatfactory said:
Sounds nice up to 7k and looks like it has great pull in the next gear ...and just a 'wee' bit quicker than it was when a 1300 four speed...

SteveC
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Just a wee bit quicker :D

So far I am VERY pleased with how it is running. It's amazing how the Exxie chassis comes alive when you increase the power output from the engine.
 
rjplenter said:
It's amazing how the Exxie chassis comes alive when you increase the power output from the engine.
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Hey Rob, would it be fair to say that some of us ol' farts - still hangin' in there with our stock-standard 1300 X's :rolleyes: are missing sumthin' somewhere??

cheers, IanL - NZ
 
ianlawson said:
Hey Rob, would it be fair to say that some of us ol' farts - still hangin' in there with our stock-standard 1300 X's :rolleyes: are missing sumthin' somewhere??

cheers, IanL - NZ
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Not at all Lawsa.

My first X was pretty standard (apart from electric fuel pump, electronic ignition and internally regulated alternator), was a 1300 4 speed and I loved it to pieces. Literally! Living by the sea caused it's rapid demise.
My second one started out pretty standard, but morphed into a rally car. I loved that one too as it had a different character and was a lot of fun on the stages.

This latest X is quite a departure as I decided from day 1 it would be a restomod. First I upgraded the suspension, then the brakes, THEN the engine. I did the same with the rally version, but had to stay within CAMS regulations, so was limited in scope.
With the tired old engine the current car felt over-suspended and over-braked, now it all feels just right.

And I'm sure those brave folk who shoehorn a Honda engine into their Exxes go on to explore a whole new character to their cars.

I've discovered over the years that no matter what configuration an X has, it is always fun to drive!!! :D:D:D

As much as I love my current restomoded version, I'd dearly love to have a totally standard Lido in my garage one day. I think that was the best looking "special" X ever produced.

Interesting development this morning, the clutch can be slipped in 4th gear from about 3,500rpm with a decent prod of the accelerator pedal (not WOT). The clutch disk and pressure plate are relatively new, but I did change the flywheel, which had obviously been refaced. Amongst other things, I checked the clutch pushrod freeplay on the weekend and it was fine, but I'll check it again and bleed the slave cylinder. I hope the flywheel wasn't machined too much, my pressure plate may not be applying enough pressure.

Cheers,

Rob
 
rjplenter said:
Not at all Lawsa.

Interesting development this morning, the clutch can be slipped in 4th gear from about 3,500rpm with a decent prod of the accelerator pedal (not WOT). The clutch disk and pressure plate are relatively new, but I did change the flywheel, which had obviously been refaced. Amongst other things, I checked the clutch pushrod freeplay on the weekend and it was fine, but I'll check it again and bleed the slave cylinder. I hope the flywheel wasn't machined too much, my pressure plate may not be applying enough pressure.

Cheers,

Rob
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On my 1600 engine I am using a Kevlar clutch from Superior Friction (this was recommended by Bernice). On my dino run it slipped a bit, and the dino operator managed to reduce the dino resistance and complete the session. At this point the clutch had not been broken in.

Now that it is, I am very happy with it. The car has a light flywheel, and I am still working in getting the throttle linkage tuned in right now. it has a short throw and it comes on fast (I am using throttle bodies from a Honda cb600 motorcycle). As a result my starts are not gentle with higher revs. The clutch does fine with this, and is getting even smoother as it breaks in. No slipping at speed at this point.

I have a 19 thou step on the flywheel.

When I first installed it the clutch friction plate was a bit out of round. There are no issues since I corrected that.

Paul
 
rjplenter said:
7,500rpm yesterday. No worries. :)
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Very nice! Rewatching your video, it really looks like it keeps pulling until you shift. Mine definitely drops off. I need to start refining the fuel / ign & possibly play with the cam timing a little. What engine management is yours again? Is it carbs or EFI I can't recall.
 
lookforjoe said:
Very nice! Rewatching your video, it really looks like it keeps pulling until you shift. Mine definitely drops off. I need to start refining the fuel / ign & possibly play with the cam timing a little. What engine management is yours again? Is it carbs or EFI I can't recall.
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carbs.jpg


It also pulls pretty well from just above 2,000rpm, so I'm pretty confident I didn't make my head ports too big.

Cheers,

Rob
 
There is a small oil seal at the top of the speedo drive shaft that connects to the square drive on the speedo cable. That oil seal could be knackared...

Check the O-ring(s) on the body of the speedo drive gear holder. These are often neglected and leak.

Chassis-suspension of the exxe readily accepts large amounts of power train increase with ease. Once the power level is increased, the suspension can be tweaked, adjusted and styled to suit road conditions, driver styles and performance goals. This is the hidden gift built into the exxe few experience or understand.


Bernice


rjplenter said:
No, but I think this morning I isolated the current leak to the speedo cable drive.

Just a wee bit quicker :D

So far I am VERY pleased with how it is running. It's amazing how the Exxie chassis comes alive when you increase the power output from the engine.
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QUOTE="Rupunzell, post: 273954, member: 221"]Check the O-ring(s) on the body of the speedo drive gear holder. These are often neglected and leak.[/QUOTE]

Hey Bernice, that's a REALLY good tip!! That's an area that would hardly ever get looked at! :)

cheers, Ian - NZ
 
Rupunzell said:
Check the O-ring(s) on the body of the speedo drive gear holder. These are often neglected and leak.

Bernice
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Yep, that fixed the leak from the cable drive. There is still a leak, but I haven't had time to get under the car and see where it is coming from.

Cheers,

Rob
 
rjplenter said:
Yep, that fixed the leak from the cable drive. There is still a leak, but I haven't had time to get under the car and see where it is coming from.

Cheers,

Rob
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I'm curious -was there a seal between the drive gear spindle and the speedo drive housing? Old Volvos used a small top hat seal (kinda like a valve stem seal) for this purpose. I ask 'cos mine appears to be leaking from there. The transducer / transmitter has no seal inside it, and I don't recall if the standard cable end incorporated a seal or not.I have dampness on and around the drive threaded section.

What did you use to extract the drive housing once the retainer bolt was removed? I did try to pull it out by hand, that wasn't happening.
 
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