850 Spider tail lights, à la Ferrari

Matt, I really like it. I'm amazed what can be done with 3D printing. If I wasn't too old I would learn to do the programming and get into it. But I still make things from metal the hard way. And I'm not even good at it. :D

I agree using another red one rather than clear may be better. Here's a thought; can that middle "filler" panel in between the two taillights be incorporated into the light assemblies? Making the whole rear a custom one-piece panel?

Are these standard 2" or 2-1/2" truck LED lights? I've done a similar mod for my X's taillights. With the X being larger at the rear end I wanted bigger diameter lights but only found things I didn't like. So I used a combination of a standard 2-1/2" light surrounded by a "ring" LED light to give it both a more custom look and larger size to fill the space they occupy.

Things like "polylactic acid" and "glycolized filament" soundlike nutritional aspects of one's diet. Are these eatable parts? :p
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Matt, I really like it. I'm amazed what can be done with 3D printing. If I wasn't too old I would learn to do the programming and get into it. But I still make things from metal the hard way. And I'm not even good at it. :D

I agree using another red one rather than clear may be better. Here's a thought; can that middle "filler" panel in between the two taillights be incorporated into the light assemblies? Making the whole rear a custom one-piece panel?

Are these standard 2" or 2-1/2" truck LED lights? I've done a similar mod for my X's taillights. With the X being larger at the rear end I wanted bigger diameter lights but only found things I didn't like. So I used a combination of a standard 2-1/2" light surrounded by a "ring" LED light to give it both a more custom look and larger size to fill the space they occupy.

Things like "polylactic acid" and "glycolized filament" soundlike nutritional aspects of one's diet. Are these eatable parts? :p
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Nobody's too old to learn CAD..."slicer" software...and a 3D printer. It's a delicate process, but so is (properly) rebuilding an old 100GBC motor. If you have a good intuition for materials, and you can do basic math, you can learn this stuff in a few weeks. Passion for making stuff helps a lot.

The variety of materials available is amazing. Some can easily withstand sustained operation at over 100C..which is sufficient for things like intake manifolds -- my next project, which involves mounting a single 800cc injector and Suzuki throttle body in place of the factory carburetor. For that part, I'll use nylon mixed with glass fiber. The stuff tolerates 150C+ under sustained use. Bottom line: if it's not an internal engine part or suspension part..you can probably make it with a 3D printer. An optimistic claim, but you get the idea.

Yes..these are de-facto standard 2.5" LED truck marker lights. They work great, even with a 'bad' ground...and I don't mention that because I plan to run 'em that way.

As for incorporating these lights into a single continuous panel, it would require printing at least four different parts...due to the limited print space inside the printer's chamber (400 mm). The center panel is a bit too long to fit on the print bed.
 
I'm a fan of mig welding aluminium. On my present engine, I welded a manifold on top of the old Weber manifold and have two 550cc injectors firing down there. There is not much you can do with the standard inlet on an 850 head but with the stock alloy manifold, you can polish it out and match port to the head fairly well.
 
Quick look at the lights in black. I am kinda digging it. Anyway to wrap the whole thing with chrome trim like the original?
08A36D13-4363-4D91-9787-2F24A50D1798.jpeg

And I do apologize if I stepped over a line playing with the original pic.
 
Daniel Gibson said:
Quick look at the lights in black. I am kinda digging it. Anyway to wrap the whole thing with chrome trim like the original?
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And I do apologize if I stepped over a line playing with the original pic.
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Your car, your call. It is an easy mod to change back if you or someone in the future wants to. No need for an apology.

I can’t say that I am a fan of the solution but it is well executed and thought out.

I believe the originals were vacuum metalized, it basically goes over the entire exposed part due to the process. They do have a masking process. https://www.industrialheating.com/articles/93505-physical-vapor-deposition-and-vacuum-metalizing
One of the largest manufacturers of hub caps and reflectors is a few miles from my house but like many large industrial systems one can’t get them to do repair or small run parts.

I have had it done through my workplace but don’t have a recommendation of where one could have it done. In general it is a delicate solution.
 
I like it.
You can "wrap" it in any finish - chrome, aluminum, brushed, etc. The wrap material is the same as is used for car bodies. The bright finished like chrome or polished alum are more difficult to do. And tight corners are also difficult. So you might look for a local car wrap shop to see about getting it done for you.

That pic just made me realize there is a similarity in the lines around the tail light area between this 850 and the X:
08A36D13-4363-4D91-9787-2F24A50D1798.jpg
 
There's a broad array of printing filaments as well - a variety of colors and sheens. There's also a paint that's popular with hobbyists called Alclad II that yields a chrome-like finish but I think it requires an overcoat of something to protect it. Anyway... there's lots of choices for color and finishes. By the way, after a few test fits to the car, I've redrawn the part a few times. It needed a more smooth, curved surface. Here's the latest version. The two shells snap together and light harness fits through a rubber grommet in the bottom half.

I'll print a version in black or dark gray to compare with the modified photo. It didn't occur to me to make it black; I like the look.
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Dr.Jeff said:
Sorry to go off topic, but that's what I'm doing on my X. However there will still be four lights, two per side kind of similar to Matt's, on mine.
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Yeah, I never got having that little compartment back there on the X. Prefer all open and better engine access.

Also made a mesh grille for quad Ferrari lights but only needed the pair so less wiring and weight and more airflow and more like 037Rally.

Also made something similar to Matt's by hacking up a Ferrari 360 rear body panel.
1C59625C-134E-447D-A01C-5BB87EA05BB1.jpeg
 
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Daniel Gibson said:
I may have misspoke. Polished aluminum?
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The taillight you're showing is the 1970-on type, with a larger chromed housing, an integrated Reverse light lens & a different red lens than the smaller early Spider taillight unit that Matt is redesigning. On the early Spider, the lamp housing is plastic, has a much shallower profile & does not show once mounted (the lens & gasket cover it).
 
This is the rear of my coupe. I'm busily searching for new lightweight LED rear lights. My inboard lights have no bulbs,
Pheasant Wood 5.jpg
and I intend to replace them with a second set of brake lights. At the moment they are just added weight.
One of the best mods you can make with your rear lights is to change out the brake pressure switch to the more modern system of a switch on the brake pedal. The pressure switch is activated at something like 25 psi and when you are just resting your foot on the pedal the light may not be showing. The electric switch will indicate earlier, which is particularly beneficial on the track.
 
Jeff Stich said:
The taillight you're showing is the 1970-on type, with a larger chromed housing, an integrated Reverse light lens & a different red lens than the smaller early Spider taillight unit that Matt is redesigning. On the early Spider, the lamp housing is plastic, has a much shallower profile & does not show once mounted (the lens & gasket cover it).
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Oops. I goofed. Sorry.
 
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