Bertone 1500, smoke from breather, rings and valves seem ok.

Chromaphase

Chromaphase

True Classic
Hello everyone,

So I finally get the carburetor of my bertone to work pretty well now.
But I noticed some smoke out of the oil breather.
Here is to show you in video : bertone 1500 oil breather smoke
it gets thicker as the motor is hotter, No splashing of oil from the oil gauge, no real splashing of oil from the breather.

I thought it was maybe gas into the oil as my carburetor flooded a bit before, I changed the oil, the breather Improved but still a bit of this white-ish smoke.
I just back from compression test :

140 - 130 - 145 - 145
I think its pretty good ? Its just 10%.
also I tried the spoon of oil into cyl 2, and compression was 150, so I dont think its the valves...

Motor has been redone recently by a professional, less than 2000 km ago.
Oil pressure is good.
Motor temp on highway can get a bit more than 90, for some reasons. like 93-95 degres top.

Is it safe to drive it ? (I stopped to drive it recently since I noticed this)
And What could be the cause, is this normal ?

Oil is 15W40 Diesel Oil.
Motor start well, with automatic choke activating, etc...

Thank you,
Matthieu
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Perhaps blowby at cylinder #2 from leaking rings (e.g. lower compression)?
Click to expand...
Seems like it but its in the tolerance (10%?) blowby is limited, as seen on the video, so maybe I worry too much about it ? Nothing to suggest to take the motor apart for instance ?
 
I would drive it without a thought. It could be a stuck ring or still wearing in rings from the relatively recent rebuild.

Do you have a flame arrestor in the hose?

Blue smoke out the tail pipe would be concerning, this is not that.
 
If it’s running well, nothing to worry about. We all (well some of us) overthink and over worry about little things on these cars. If it’s not dangerous or a safety issue just go and use it like it was meant to be used. Have fun and drive it, you’ll be surprised that the car likes it too.
 
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kmead said:
I would drive it without a thought. It could be a stuck ring or still wearing in rings from the relatively recent rebuild.

Do you have a flame arrestor in the hose?

Blue smoke out the tail pipe would be concerning, this is not that.
Click to expand...

Im not sure about the flame arrestor, is it factory ?
Also do you think some oil additive could help with stuck rings or else, if so would you recommend any ?

If it’s running well, nothing to worry about. We all (well some of us) overthink and over worry about little things on these cars. If it’s not dangerous or a safety issue just go and use it like it was meant to be used. Have fun and drive it, you’ll be surprised that the car likes it too.
Click to expand...

Ok sounds good... I havent drive my X at its fullest yet... Also I need to change the exhaust, its completly broken with kitchen sink sound, its horrendous... what would you think of the bit of high temperature ? Why would it be a bit more than 90 ? Last summer it would stay at 90.
Coolant is good, water pump is new. radiator is new... Highway or traffic its the same. Thanks.
 
Chromaphase said:
Im not sure about the flame arrestor, is it factory ?
Also do you think some oil additive could help with stuck rings or else, if so would you recommend any ?



Ok sounds good... I havent drive my X at its fullest yet... Also I need to change the exhaust, its completly broken with kitchen sink sound, its horrendous... what would you think of the bit of high temperature ? Why would it be a bit more than 90 ? Last summer it would stay at 90.
Coolant is good, water pump is new. radiator is new... Highway or traffic its the same. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Yes the flame arrestor is a wire widget stuck in the hose.

I don't use additives. I do drive to reasonably high rpm however :)

I wouldn't worry about the temp, I would see if the rad needs an air purge.

Just keep an eye on the temps, if they are consistent and it's otherwise following the expected temps within a needle width or so I wouldn't worry. It is an analogue gauge with coarse markings so not a hallmark of accuracy.
 
kmead said:
Yes the flame arrestor is a wire widget stuck in the hose.

I don't use additives. I do drive to reasonably high rpm however :)

I wouldn't worry about the temp, I would see if the rad needs an air purge.

Just keep an eye on the temps, if they are consistent and it's otherwise following the expected temps within a needle width or so I wouldn't worry. It is an analogue gauge with coarse markings so not a hallmark of accuracy.
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Ok Thanks,
I took it out for spin and the car runned quite well Im happy with it !
I will check for the air purge of the rad, I didnt know it could be done.

Next step is the exhaust and a fabric style targa top !
 
Chromaphase said:
What do you think would be the correct oil ?
I thought it is 15W40 and diesel oil can be use ?

Do I need to use a special type or brand ? I have seen treads on xweb about specific types but gonna be honest, the choices in France are very limited...
Click to expand...
No - nothing special required. Which is kinda my point. Oils designed for modern Diesels are very fancy indeed. Our engines have very little in common with a modern Diesel. Will such an oil be "ok"? Probably, but I don't see the need and there is potential for issues. We rev much higher, we get petrol contamination [inevitably] and our internal clearances and tolerances are much bigger/broader. May well get high oil consumption.
 
Chromaphase said:
Ok Thanks,
I took it out for spin and the car runned quite well Im happy with it !
I will check for the air purge of the rad, I didnt know it could be done.

Next step is the exhaust and a fabric style targa top !
Click to expand...
There is a bleeder in the top left corner of the radiator. It is reached through a hole in the very front of the frunk in the left corner. There is a 6 or 8mm Allen head fastener. With the engine running and warmed up, loosen the bleed screw a coupe of turns until air and then coolant comes out. Close it up. Go for a drive pushing the care with some decent revs to move plenty of coolant around. With the engine running do it again and close it up.

Now verify the coolant reservoir is about 2/3 full, if not bring it up to that level. If you overfill it, it will come out over time as the reservoir is also the expansion tank and will vent due to over pressure.

Repeat the same a week later. You should be good for a year, or more likely until you flush the system in five years.
 
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kmead said:
There is a bleeder in the top left corner of the radiator. It is reached through a hole in the very front of the frunk in the left corner. There is a 6 or 8mm Allen head fastener. With the engine running and warmed up, loosen the bleed screw a coupe of turns until air and then coolant comes out. Close it up. Go for a drive pushing the care with some decent revs to move plenty of coolant around. With the engine running do it again and close it up.

Repeat the same a week later. You should be good for a year, or more.
Click to expand...
One quick addendum, put your cabin heater temp setting on full heat to ensure that the heater core loop of the cooling system is circulating as well.
 
Dan Sarandrea (Phila) said:
I think we can add the "nose up vs. nose down" argument to the off-limits in polite conversation list: religion, politics, motor oil, ...... :D
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I don’t think it makes any difference having done this many times over the years. I have tried this many times in different ways. I would argue the car should be near level. Now on a 124 twin cam I can state it does make a difference…

The top of the radiator is above the lowest point in the cooling system between the radiator and the engine. Any entrained air that makes it across the low point (which are the two tubes carrying coolant between the two) ends up in the radiator and will stay in the radiator until vented. The top of the radiator and the entry for the coolant into it is below the top of the head and the coolant reservoir in the engine bay, the return line from the radiator is also above the lowest point in the return line and well below the high point in the radiator.

Venting that air with the engine hot and circulating and letting the coolant in the reservoir flow to fill the void with both the pressure and the pump circulating will remove the air in the radiator. Doing it a second time in succession will ensure you have vented all that can be vented at that time.

Now I will argue that you want the left side of the car raised a few inches as it will ensure all the air moves to where the bleeder is.
 
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