Budget hi comp high(er) hp motor build
- Thread starter Rooster
- Start date
Paul Stoltze
True Classic
re: kevlar timing belt
Mike - just how many miles are you planning on driving this race motor between rebuilds? New stock belts work fine with pretty radical cam lift rates. With a high compression motor, I'd expect you to be pulling the head off at least every two years for servicing, at which time you can stick on a fresh belt. I don't think you need to worry about belt upgrades.
Paul
Mike - just how many miles are you planning on driving this race motor between rebuilds? New stock belts work fine with pretty radical cam lift rates. With a high compression motor, I'd expect you to be pulling the head off at least every two years for servicing, at which time you can stick on a fresh belt. I don't think you need to worry about belt upgrades.
Paul
Rooster
piccole ma cattive
Yes sir, those are yours!
Rooster
piccole ma cattive
It doesnt look budget to me anymore....
Budget is a relative thing....
bikesandcars
True Classic
Status update: Elgin seems very educated on cams, and has provided some brief snippets of good advice in emails. I have trouble reaching him on the phone. Its been going on 2 months since I sent him my cam.... barely a peep from him... called me tuesday said it would be done thursday.... have heard nothing. I symphatize with him, I'm sure he's busy and Fiat X19's aren't a priority.... but his lax schedule has destroyed my testing and prep schedule..... I hope whatever he sends me works or I will be royally PI$$ED
Rupunzell
Bernice Loui
Sigh...
Last time we ordered up a custom cam grind for a Triumph TR6.. it only took 3 months and a whole bunch of phone calls and email to deliver. Yes, I like Elgin, but his delivery/work schedule is difficult in many ways. Yet, he know much on the topic of cams..
Frustrating.. in many ways..
Bernice
Last time we ordered up a custom cam grind for a Triumph TR6.. it only took 3 months and a whole bunch of phone calls and email to deliver. Yes, I like Elgin, but his delivery/work schedule is difficult in many ways. Yet, he know much on the topic of cams..
Frustrating.. in many ways..
Bernice
Rupunzell
Bernice Loui
abec
Wil
http://www.engine-machining.com/
John over at costa mesa R&D has blanks to make new cams rather then regrinds.
John over at costa mesa R&D has blanks to make new cams rather then regrinds.
Rooster
piccole ma cattive
Worked on the RaceX last night. Removed the gas tank (yes, by myself), what a PITA! Removed the cylinder head. pistons look like crap, all gunked. On a good note, the cyl walls still have all the crosshatching and will clean up nicely.
One very important question, should I go ARP studs or bolts?
One very important question, should I go ARP studs or bolts?
Rooster
piccole ma cattive
LOL, a quick swing by the ARP website answered my question. Studs. Found their online catalog, but no listing for Fiat. The digging continues....
Pete Whitstone
True Classic
I used ARP studs for my engine...
You just fill out this worksheet that asks for all kinds of dimensions and then they will find what you need.
As I recall, one half of the engine they had a match for. But the other half (can't remember if it was the long or short ones, long I think) they did not have an immediate match for. But they found that if they turned an existing part of theirs upside down, it would work. These studs have the proper threading for the block on one end (1.25?) and at the other end have another size thread (1.50?). So they told me to flip them upside down from their normal orientation, and then they sold me some 1.50 nuts.
So I have two different thread patterns on the "top" side of the short and long studs on my engine. The only problem is that I have to keep them straight which nuts are which if I have them all off. Not a big deal.
Pete
You just fill out this worksheet that asks for all kinds of dimensions and then they will find what you need.
As I recall, one half of the engine they had a match for. But the other half (can't remember if it was the long or short ones, long I think) they did not have an immediate match for. But they found that if they turned an existing part of theirs upside down, it would work. These studs have the proper threading for the block on one end (1.25?) and at the other end have another size thread (1.50?). So they told me to flip them upside down from their normal orientation, and then they sold me some 1.50 nuts.
So I have two different thread patterns on the "top" side of the short and long studs on my engine. The only problem is that I have to keep them straight which nuts are which if I have them all off. Not a big deal.
Pete
lookforjoe
True Classic
Nice!
I'm envious!
I'm just doing head work & a cam
I'm envious!
I'm just doing head work & a cam
myexonenine
True Classic
Yes it is!
I'm blowing my original budget, but not my new one
I'm blowing my original budget, but not my new one
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Hey there...
For a RACE engine that should be coming apart quite often, studs are the only way to go as you are generally tightning NUTs onto the studs, and not tightening bolts into the block, and the potential for fatique and stripping the threads in the block.
For Street cars... bolt work just fine and are usually BETTER than studs when it comes to head removal years apart. Most STUCK heads I've seen are the ones with STUDS, not bolts!
For a RACE engine that should be coming apart quite often, studs are the only way to go as you are generally tightning NUTs onto the studs, and not tightening bolts into the block, and the potential for fatique and stripping the threads in the block.
For Street cars... bolt work just fine and are usually BETTER than studs when it comes to head removal years apart. Most STUCK heads I've seen are the ones with STUDS, not bolts!