DanielForest
True Classic
JUST 2? You are a stubborn guy!
It took my wife quite a while to tolerate two. I need to stay married so two is my limit.JUST 2? You are a stubborn guy!
Well, I didn’t know if I would ever use my rotisserie again but my ‘79 is getting stripped down to get the rust out of it, once and for all. Just have the front suspension, dash and wiring to go and then it’s off to the body shop in a couple of weeks.
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Still not sure why I need two X1/9s but that’s what comes from hanging around this forum. It’s definitely an addiction.
The connecting beam is easily removable. Just one bolt at each end. It is only there to stabilize the engine stands when you are rolling the whole thing. I'm not sure if the car will pivot all the way around with the beam removed without hitting something else at this point, but I will give it a try.Possible thought here. If the main benefit of the connecting beam is to stabilize everything while it is being rolled around. Then what if you made that connecting beam removable? Could the car then be rotated completed sideways without hitting anything? Replace the connecting beam to roll it around, then remove it when you want to work on the bottom of the car. You would need to find a way to make it removable, but that shouldn't be difficult. Could that work?
Yes, that was helpful to have. I've used that image for demonstration purposes myself. Thanks for doing it.The other images I stitched I see used by others regularly.
Thanks for trying Rodger. I was thinking it just might clear after your latest changes to the stands. And I agree, the way it is will be more than sufficient. Really can't beat this for simplicity.Nope. The rear fender hits the engine stand.
Agree. I'd either keep it real simple by doing what Rodger did, or go full-on and make one like you describe. Doesn't make a lot of sense to keep cutting/welding/modifying the engine stands. The benefit to using the engine stands in the method Rodger did is they are still good as engine stands and it is quick/easy to put together. This is preferred if you only plan to use it a couple of times. The benefit to making one from scratch is you can design it anyway that suits your needs. This would be preferred if you planned on using it many times over.I found that if I was going to be cutting and welding stuff anyways, the advantage of starting with prebuilt engine stands is small.
Ok Karl, I gave it a shot. Here are the best three I could come up with. I tried to get as perpendicular to the bottom as I could and the same distance. Problem was that I was using a little zoom on my camera to fill the image, but by the time I would move the camera to the next spot, the camera would shut off and reset to no zoom, so the magnification was not uniform. I tried both with and without flash and the ones without flash but lit by some shop lights had the best shadowing for detail. Hopefully you can do your Photoshop magic.Next time you have it outside, are bored and have nothing better to do on car on rotisserie, could you snap a photo or two of the bottom of your car?
Hey Rodger, this does not apply to you...you already have the stand working very well.Nope. The rear fender hits the engine stand.
I would totally agree with Eric, but welding is not in my skill set, as much as I would like to learn. At this point in my life of car restoration, once my two X project cars are done, there will be no more (well, never say never ), so acquiring the knowledge, tools, and practice time just doesn't make any sense to me. The advantage to using the engine stands is that once I was done with my rotisserie application, they come apart easily and are stored in a relatively small space on a shelf, as opposed to having a bigger, nicer one that is all welded together. Plus, I can always use the engine stands for just that.For what it's worth....
I found that if I was going to be cutting and welding stuff anyways, the advantage of starting with prebuilt engine stands is small. My local steel supplier sells 20-foot lengths of 2" square tubing for way less than even Harbor Freight engine stands. Welding up the the tee and post eliminates all the problems with the angle of the pivot and getting the height so that the car would do a full 360 without hitting the ground. Building my own also meant that I could have a much wider footprint, which means greater stability, which means no need for a crossbar between the two ends.