camber adjustment

those are exactly the ones I have...

no complaints at all with them! In the old archives there may still be a write-up on these along with how I modified stock KYBS into coilovers. With these bushing you WILL need to drill out the upper holes in the strut bracket - but it's easily done with a good drill press with a vice. Suppose it could be done by hand but I think it's fairly important to keep the holes as centered as possible...

T
 
Well, yeah...

But if ya want something, I'd call:

CALL US: 1-831-423-0218
FAX: 831-459-8128

Here is the site's contact request form:

http://www.fiatplus.com/help.php?section=contactus&mode=update

And... You can SEARCH Chris Obert here by clicking on the SEARCH tab above... then click on his NAME on any post and send him an email or PM on this site.

I may have his private email account but don't know if he wants that given out. Let me know if any or all of the above methods fail...
 
Thanks

Hey again.
I dropped Chris an email via this site. I asked for the big feet/pivots and anything else to refurbish the struts. They Are Konis incidentally.
The confusing bit is my car has a 1500 big bumper body but a 1300 4 speed I think Steve C calls it a series 1.5 so I am not sure which bits for what car.. build date is 04/1980
I am thinking of converting the struts to coil overs to get more flexibility re the tims clearance and springs and ride height.
Anyone done this?
I appreciate the toe in link... how good do you have to be to do camber?
Nick
 
Front struts are the same all models, rear struts have minor differences, all cars made after 79 use the series 2 rear struts, even Australian market 1300/4 speed cars... the engine trans combo doesn't change the type of rear strut used, but the manufacture date does.

SteveC
 
Thanks

Hi Steve
I am not taking the Micki but you are the Fiat Wiki so thanks.
So that means my wheel bearings are late model?
Thanks again
 
Later front hubs with the larger bearing, but regular four speed rear hubs with the smaller four speed bearing...

SteveC
 
Keeping the holes centered

I used a "step drill" from Home Depot,
Those keep the hole centered quite nicely while in a drill press.
Mine came out to a 5/8" hole, though I don't know the exact size of the EU inserts.
 
"How good do you have to be to do camber?"

Well... VERY good I'd say... or you'll end up with goal in your stocking on Christmas morning!

As for actually checking the "camber"... a straight block of wood cut to fit exactly across the outer rim of the tire and a LEVEL or a construction ANGLE FINDER will even work better.

First find some LEVEL area in which to work... most garage floors are sufficient but most are set up to DRAIN out towards the street! So park strait in. Next, insure the ride height is where you want it and CENTERED by pushing down hard on the bumpers front and rear... then letting the car "settle". Then roll the car back and forth so the tires are not tweaked. Now lay your level or angle finder against the block of wood held against the wheel rim and note the bubble or angle indicated.

Compare both sides... and also the front tires to the rear tires. I'm unsure what the stock specs are but I would suspect about 1 - 2 degrees of negative camber would be about right. Racers have their own secret settings... I'm sure some here will share (or lie about) their preferences... HA!

See page 00-7 for stock specs: http://www.midwesternmedicalmachine.com/~damonfg/X_FSM/PDF_Files/X1-9_00_00-3-10.pdf

Add weight to the driver's side or both sides and retest if you want to consider these factors also...
 
S2 fronts are tricky to do... they have the bearing retained with a circlip that you cant get a hold of the end to remove (haynes manual doesnt show that one!)

My secret trick is to remove the entire hub and press out the wheel flange (the bit the wheel bolts to) after undoing the retaining nut on the rear. Then locate the end of said circlip... mount the (flangeless) hub in a drill press, and drill a very small (like 2 or 3mm) hole into the back of the circlip groove so you can insert a slim pin punch to lift the circlip off the bottom of it's groove and get it out... when you disassemble this description will make more sense...after reassembly the hole can be filled with a dob of silastic to stop water / dirt ingress

Front bearing from SKF is a BA2B 633295 A, but they also list a complete kit, which comes with the dustshield plate, the two V groove rings, the nut a new circlip and of course the bearing... most of the time the V groove seals are worn and need replacing.

Rear bearing for the four speed (and five speed is similar method) is very easy, the bearing is retained by a screw in lockring... take the time to knock yourself up a tool (i.e. cut out an octagonal plate from some thick sheetmetal, find the centre and weld on an old 1/2 drive socket) and the job will be easy...

4 speed and five speed use a different sized lockring... completely from memory the 4 speed is 2" across the flats and the five speed is 2.5inch... I'd need to go out to my shed and look at my bearing tools to confirm...it's just gone midnight so that's not happening tonite :-0

Keep the old inner and outer bearing races... cut a slot down thru the side of them with a metal cutting disc and they make great tools to press the bearings back into the hub and also for pressing the flange back thru the bearing... the slot is so the "tool" doesn't get jammed...

I'm pretty sure I have some OE 4 speed (same as 127/128 too) lockrings, maybe bearings for the rear (SKF 633313C) possibly loose brgs for front of ser2, but no front full kits for ser2...

SteveC
 
that's the ticket!

I was looking for the pic of this but apparently someone who looks alot like me who knows my password deleted the photobucket pics. :doh:


Hey Bob, do you have any before/after pics of the way your strut top aligned in opening? If you do, take another picture now that they had time to settle and see if there is any noticable difference.

T
 
It'll be another 3 months

The trailer is covered with snow. Remind me an about 3 months.
BTW, I changed the strut top mounts to those offered by Chris O'bert.
 
snow?

What's that? The price we pay of four months of HEAT is that it's 85 degrees and top off weather for 6 months. Today was particulary nice:sun:
 
here is a link...

http://www.network54.com/Forum/1215...on+Progress+(+A+pictorial+-+major+DU+warning)

Since these pics, I changed the springs to 300# front(8inch) and rear(7 inch) but even still, the shocks do not keep up that well for everyday driving on anything other than the smoothest of roads.

When I get the chance I'll take some pics of the entire assembly on the car with the strut doublers and the camber bolts.

The bigfoot strut doublers and the thrust bearing assemblies are worth the coin and now would be the good time to do them since you are going to have them out...

If i had the $ to do it al again from scratch, I'd get the Ksport kit...
http://www.ksportusa.com/asp/vehicle_search.asp?varMake=Fiat&varModel=&Submit=Submit
 
robertsonhoney looks like a spammer

Join date of today, at least 3 incomprehensible posts and a link in the sig.

Do not click on the Dell link. :)

Mods... can we get this account blocked?
 
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