coolant tube replacement begins.

will do! I didnt even think about that. Meh, I think I might just look into recreating it. would be safer.

Odie
 
Were they corroded in place?

autox19 said:
Got bothe ends cut. Tried pulling them out. Nada. Used a dead blow hammer. Nada. Went with the grinder with a cutting wheel. Found out laying on my back I cannot cut straight. Opened it up and still had to pry a bit to get them out. Need a little more pipe. They said it was 9 foot. It was only 100 inches.

Odie
Click to expand...
 
IMG_2039.JPG
Here is the finished version of my pipe replacement. The pipes are custom made SS that I think was discussed here. They are held in place with stainless steel safety wire. Heater hose is missing since I'm running without a heater at the moment. I have no plans to close up the box. But I did close off all the openings between this box and the shifter tunnel.
 
I like it. I bought stainless wire this past weekend after hearing that is what you used. I am putting a cover back on just to help protect it a little.


Odie
 
I thought I read somewhere were a lot of people feel the box is Boxed and well secured to add to the stiffness of the body.

Might want to re-think no replacing the box.
 
the structural integrity of the box is a touchy subject with loyal followers on both sides. Best discussed in it's own heading.
I like the ability to access this area, especially when I reinstall the heater pipe, nuff said.
 
carl said:
View attachment 3049 Here is the finished version of my pipe replacement. The pipes are custom made SS that I think was discussed here. They are held in place with stainless steel safety wire. Heater hose is missing since I'm running without a heater at the moment. I have no plans to close up the box. But I did close off all the openings between this box and the shifter tunnel.
Click to expand...
Carl,
Those pipes look good. Are they the ones that are commercially available (discussed elsewhere), or are they your creation? The reason I ask is that I am interested in purchasing the commercially available pipes, but prefer the drains be located off to the side of the pipe, not at the bottom.
 
What's the point of the drain holes? Lowest part of the entire cooling system, right? What if we could take the coolant pipes out by just removing some bolts, drop the tubes and drain the entire system. What's stopping us?

More to come...
 
Mine were the commercially available ones that I got from a buddy of mine. I see no need to use the drain holes, just undo the rubber hoses from these pipes and you get the same effect.
 
Keep in mind that the original pipes are upturned on each end and getting all the crap out of them is not always as easy as just removing the hoses...
 
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It looks like they sent you the pipes they had sent to me a year ago.
I returned the pipes to be re-made because the drain holes were located 4 inches too far back. (into the shield area)
I had them re-make the pipes and send them to me with the drain holes in the proper place.
For $600, they should be done right. No doubt though, the quality of the pipes is outstanding.
 
I noticed that the drain fittings on mine were useless for a closed box as they would be inside the box. I have to admit I never knew stock pipes had drain fittings in them.
 
I found a sheetmetal place here in dallas that made a new box cover, out of stainless for like 30 bucks. to hold the pipes up, I made studs by running bolts down thu floorboard, and put nuts on them to keep them there should i ever need to remove pipes. They make a U bracket for electric conduit that you can slide over the new "studs". I also wrapped rubber around pipes where brackets held them up to keep from rattling, and a hole getting rubbed into the pipes. To hold the box on I used short sheet metal screws thu the sides..and if your big pipes are rotten, then your heater lines are too for sure, mine were, little bitty pin leaks, never saw water on the ground, but car always ran hot. BTW, you can still make a cover, just make holes fro the drains to poke thru. Wish I coulda gone stainless, I used 1.25 copper, so far so good, I cringe when i bottom out tho...looks good, with I had drains too!
 
Got to sneak out into the garage (pretending i was doing something for the graduation party Saturday ) got the tubes cut and beads rolled.
20170613_120621.jpg


Odie
 
Odie, I gotta ask: what did you use to roll a bead on the ends of your SS tubes? Seen YouTube vids of guys cutting/grinding an electrical crimp but yours look better in the photo. Thanks.
 
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