D'Angelo suspension kits

There's a variant of this assembly made from a casting and tubular control arms - from a builder in Croatia - for sale on eBay pretty much al the time. It doesn't come with the coilovers however. Why do you ask?
 
Matt Zerega said:
There's a variant of this assembly made from a casting and tubular control arms - from a builder in Croatia - for sale on eBay pretty much al the time. It doesn't come with the coilovers however. Why do you ask?
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Just curious. A positive comment or two could get me interested.
 
With a stock 850, you might benefit more from the reverse leaf spring or lowering blocks. If you were doing all the OT1000 or 1300/124 upgrades, that would be a different story.
 
Yes they are legitimate products, I don’t know this seller. There are a number of different vendors who sell some variation on these units.
 
I've got a similar set-up on my car. Made in New Zealand and cost about $1000 without the shocks and coils.
 

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Am I correct in recalling that this car is used mainly for racing? Any further comments about it would be much appreciated. It seems to me that a reversed eye on the leaf spring would alter the relationship with the upper A Arm and, possibly induce greater negative camber upon compression.
 
Dave Bassett said:
Am I correct in recalling that this car is used mainly for racing? Any further comments about it would be much appreciated. It seems to me that a reversed eye on the leaf spring would alter the relationship with the upper A Arm and, possibly induce greater negative camber upon compression.
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Yes, Graham’s car is a closed course car.

The reversed eye was the original way of lowering these and could be done by any spring shop.

The location of the eye does not change left to right when reversing it. They re arch the spring in the opposite direction.

I have one of each (standard and reversed) and the spring isn’t the issue, the real issue is in regards to the upper A arm location. As the car is lowered the upper arm starting orientation changes due to the lowering and as the suspension is run through its full motion it goes beyond the normal motion which does affect the change from positive to negative.

There are trunion extensions which move the upper arm upward to alleviate some of the change to the geometry.
 
In my mind unless there is a major horsepower upgrade the (properly working) front suspension is perfectly fine.
On my green car I replaced the bushings and rebuilt the kingpins and run Koni shocks. It still has the early brakes but it all works just fine with 100k miles on the clock.
If I was building a track car I might make changes but mostly because I’d want the components lighter and more adjustable.
 
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