GM alternator swap questions

I think you may have over-

engineered yourself this time... again... maybe... Jeff!

Mine is STILL working well...

K.I.S.S.
 
Yep, I think I did too. For the record, I was all prepared to go the "normal" route until that water pump housing bolt snapped, but I'm not 100% sure I could get the generic Mr. Gasket bracket to fit even then with this alt's mounting ear location (probably). Maybe there is another attachment point that would work. But now I have this noise that I fear is the water pump bearing so I might have to tear it all apart anyway. I really don't think the belt is over tensioned but something is sure making a "rattling screws in a can" type noise back there.

In looking at my pictures, it seems the lower water pump bolt is in line with the mounting ear. Hmmm, I bet I could snap that one off too.

(note turnbuckle before it broke, looked like a good fit, this was an early trial, maybe for next one I'll try the next hole below and forward of the other)

altmount.jpg
 
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Redid, same noise, tried it super loose, no noise. Can't be 100% sure if it's the alt or the water pump making this "rattle". Will investigate more tonight. Belt just isn't (wasn't) that tight. Maybe I should try it tighter. I suspect either WP or alt bearing but maybe the alt is slightly cocked out of alignment or something........hmmmmmm
 
If you can. I would use the next hole over one can see on the bracket as it will give your turnbuckle more leverage a better angle where the turnbuckle is more in compression.
 
I used that one just now. It's working, just this annoying rattle, really annoying. I'll check it out, maybe it's just something with the pulley. I'm thinking a bit over a quarter inch deflection on the belt is good, right? I did not have it that tight, I can't believe it was tight enough to make a bearing grumpy.

Later that evening.....
Pulley could have been tighter. Pretty sure that's all I was hearing (a wee bit of slop and fan could wiggle a bit) Won't know until tomorrow's commute.
 
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Black-Tooth said:
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html

Or you can use a LONG screwdriver or mop handle and put it to your ear... then move one end call over the WP and the alternator. Loudest rattle wins!
Click to expand...

That image link is the longest URL I have ever seen! Go to quote or edit and check it out, amazing
I used a hunk of wood against the WP and ALT and that helped me decide it wasn't the guts of those guys, the fan was loose in the pulley assembly, loose enough to rattle.
Commute all good.
first snowfall, unpredicted, nasty roads, I took the X anyway:excited::excited:, everything seemed fine :music:
 
Well... the POINT was...

to listen and find out which component was the problem... and apparently you cared for that. Glad you found the trouble.

As for the Link... I initially attempted to post a foto as well as the link but the foto kinda disappeared. I see a FLASH of a link when I go to quote and then nothing. Weird! I'll try and edit it anyway... Thanks.
 
Taking bets on how long this turnbuckle lasts. I say 1 week.
Roughly 35 miles a day, 5 days a week, maybe 15 total on week ends. I think the vibration is too much for it. This time around I switched mounting locations, got it to correct tension, then cranked down on the pivot bolt, then backed off a tad on the turnbuckle, thinking I'll let the pivot mount take most of the force. Whatever. I can spend the winter making new alternator brackets every other week. I'll get really good at it eventually.:excited: oh, the splash guard still fits, barely....I took some "extra" time last night to reinstall it, glad I did, lots of nasty slush this morning, poor little car.
altmount2.jpg
 
PM me you address, I will send you two Heim joints that "followed me home" from when I was still in the Army.

They're top notch items that IIRC were used in the trans linkage on an M60A1/A3 series main battle tank.
 
Dan got me thinking (I don't always do that). I didn't realize you could just buy heim joints, that's a pretty easy way to make your own March Adjustable rod! Coupling nut, two of these...done. Maybe $7? If it can take it that is. I'll take the tank though, how cool would it be to be able to say "this thing is built like a tank" and mean it.....sorta.
 
soooo, I heard a rattle

I've been hearing this rattle from the engine bay for a week or so, finally had some time on an amazing Feb. day to poke around, suspected alternator turnbuckle, it was intact but strangely loose. Come to find out, the whole bracket broke off the engine. Not much left to attach to. Tinkering with factory top mount and coupling something up. I guess I was running on the snugness of the alt's pivot bolt this whole time. Hmmmmm
altmountbroken.jpg
[/IMG]
 
here is a source for inexpensive Heim's and other misc. hardware, I wouldn't recommend them for suspension use but for things like this they would be fine, I actually have 2 on the front lower control arm of my autox car, I put them in planning on replacing them with a better grade and forgot about them for 2 years and they're still in good shape.

https://www.midwestcontrol.com/

If you use heim's you will reduce a lot of the stress from the fixed link. you could also use the original bracket that mounted to the block, modify it to mount the heim to, and get better geometry. Midwest has female Heim's and male jack screws to make a shorter linkage if you need to.

This is a sway bar end link I'm working on, it is 3/8" heims and adjusts from 3.8" out to 5.25".
IMG_5806.jpg
 
That's good stuff
This is what I did, we'll see how it holds up.
A bolt with an eccentric shoulder would be perfect.
I cobbled these bits together at hardware store. Not adjustable but tension is just right on a broken-in belt so, well, drive on.
I guess the vibration just stresses stuff much more than I'd think.

mcgiveraltholder.jpg
 
Wow. I agree with Hussein.

You should try the GM alternator conversion with AC. A whole 'nother ball game. But be encouraged. Even so, and with less over-engineering, I have used only 2 alternators in 30 years.So it is a good conversion. (That's as opposed to bad one. Of which there are many examples, too.:))
 
I must say now that the teething is over (mostly) I love this alt. I can turn on everything full bore and the needle doesn't give a rip. 105amps. I should duct some air at it though as they say they don't like heat and it is in a very hot place.
 
jvandyke said:
I must say now that the teething is over (mostly) I love this alt. I can turn on everything full bore and the needle doesn't give a rip. 105amps. I should duct some air at it though as they say they don't like heat and it is in a very hot place.
Click to expand...

Good to hear. I'm getting tired of the stock weak-ass low-output alternator. Step on the brakes, turn on the blower, use the headlights & voltage drops under 13v. Do all three, and I'm lucky to see 12v. Highway, it puts out 13.65v, but that doesn't help the low-rpm crapitude.
 
Closer examination reveals the internal threads of the turnbuckle are totally stripped out, the eye bolt slips in and out with ease. If I still had a place to hook it up, I'd use the tank heim joints Dan sent me. Maybe I can rig that up yet. Cheap turnbuckle won't cut it apparently.
All is working well as is so I'll just monitor it. I assume that bronze bushing will wear with vibration.
I did pay attention to voltmeter and lights, heater, wipers; meter doesn't move. Only at very low idle (when cold) do the volts drop a little.
 
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