Has anyone here done a complete wiring harness replacement?

Hybridfiat

Power costs money, more power cost more money
I'm looking at my current rat chewed OEM harness and wondering if it won't just be easier to replace the lot.
I have a new generic harness and fuse box that powers 21 separate functions and a relay block with 8 relays.
However I've only ever done one rewire and that was a like for like on a Torana XU1, so this may be a leap too far.
Any thoughts?
 
An X is only slightly more complicated than an XU1 - very slightly. Have a look at https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/rebuilding-a-series-2-electrical-system.44861/page-2 This is the thread covering the rebuild of an 80 of mine. I have 2 other cars that came to me as projects and they have no wiring at all....

Cars this age are nicely low tech and all the basic electricals are easily available [wire, connectors, terminals etc] and the right tools [stripper and crimping tool ] also readily available.

My plan is to rebuild the one I have [ripping out all the dodgy mods by various PO] and doing a few proper improvements along the way. It will still be recognizably "original". For the other 2, I will build new harness complete as they should have been :)
 
I'm looking at my current rat chewed OEM harness and wondering if it won't just be easier to replace the lot.
I have a new generic harness and fuse box that powers 21 separate functions and a relay block with 8 relays.
However I've only ever done one rewire and that was a like for like on a Torana XU1, so this may be a leap too far.
Any thoughts?
an if you decide to rip the OE harness out and go generic new - lets talk, I would be interested in buying the debris!
 
I'm looking at my current rat chewed OEM harness and wondering if it won't just be easier to replace the lot.
I have a new generic harness and fuse box that powers 21 separate functions and a relay block with 8 relays.
However I've only ever done one rewire and that was a like for like on a Torana XU1, so this may be a leap too far.
Any thoughts?

Yes, I've done it. Twice. I put the electrical from an '80 X1/9 into my '74 X1/9, then later updated again to the electrical out of an '85 X1/9. The difficulty is stripping the interior to route the harness since it runs under and along the carpet and dashboard. So no way around it, you need to gut most, if not all, of the interior. The actual routing of the harness is simple enough.
 
I'm looking at my current rat chewed OEM harness and wondering if it won't just be easier to replace the lot.
I have a new generic harness and fuse box that powers 21 separate functions and a relay block with 8 relays.
However I've only ever done one rewire and that was a like for like on a Torana XU1, so this may be a leap too far.
Any thoughts?

If you haven't already, download the (1980) electrical diagnosis manual from the wiki - it has pictures of each circuit in color, vs the rats nest diagram of the entire car (I can't follow them) - it may help you when it comes to interfacing with the factory components the new generic harness is intended to operate (wiper motor, signal stalk, lighting, etc....)

EDIT your sig to include the year & model X1/9 you own. Comments or recommendations do depend on year & accessories that came with...
 
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I have done 3 complete harness replacements to date. All received a late model harness and Fuse box, (blade type) as this is the best that was made for the X1/9 but with that said, there are still a few mods that have to be made to make it better. The Brown-Wire mod is a must, replacing the ground wire from the battery with a larger gauge and replacing the ground wire from the transmission to the chassis should also be done.
Otherwise, as others have said, you'll have to strip out (pretty-much) the entire interior to accomplish this. You should also note that you'll need to replace the dash headlight switch, the steering wheel switch cluster, (directionals) and the center console switches (and switch template) as well. It's a week-ender job if you have all the required parts and harness ready to go. If you have a very early model with the glove box (tray) underneath the dash, you'll need to either lose that or use it to hold the late model Fuse box.
Added note: The engine bay firewall will need to be gently pulled forward in order to get the wires into the engine bay and the "shelf" for the rear speakers will need to be loosened to get those wires through as well.

(Old harness to the left, New Harness to the right)
Old_New Harness.JPG
 
As I read the original post it is asking about using a aftermarket, generic, complete vehicle wiring kit. To me that is very different from swapping in a late model X1/9 harness or rebuilding the original harness. Having done a complete rebuild of the original harness I would say starting from scratch with a aftermarket kit like this might be a good option. Personally I think it may actually be less work and frustration than trying to fix all of the issues with a original harness....even without rodent damage. However that could depend on the year of the X, the overall goal of the restoration, and your knowledge/skills with electrical systems. But as was noted by @SuperTopo it will require a complete removal of the interior, as will restoring the original harness or any of the other options mentioned so far. Some benefits to completely replacing the entire system with a generic kit are: everything will be new, reliable, sensibly laid out, incorporating all the needed upgrades into the whole system, with modern components. You won't get all that with a factory harness. It's definitely worth consideration in my opinion. :)
 
Regarding wiring harness repairs or fabrication, here are a couple of sites that offer a great selection of high quality supplies:



For more specific needs, like unusual or specialized connector terminals to replace existing ones, try (although I find these sites more difficult to navigate):


 
I have a new generic harness and fuse box that powers 21 separate functions and a relay block with 8 relays.
So you are thinking a total rewire - not remove an X system only to fit another X system. Good plan and gives you real freedom. This is actually easier than trying to get hold of another X system [as you are in Australia like moi] and the outcome will be lighter, safer, more efficient and easier to fault find. I figure you already know that you can get Australian X wiring diagrams at https://x19.com.au/manuals.html

If I were you and I do have some similar plans :) - I would put the new fuse/relay box in the frunk next to the battery. My logic is that all the high power devices [except starter and carb fan] are in front of the windscreen [Australian car so no power windows or AC]. Radiator fan, headlights, horns, wipers. The stock design takes power for those from the battery all the way inside the car to under the dash at the stock fuse/relay set and then back out to the devices. Lots of extra wire, lots of voltage loss and lots of physical packaging difficulty. I would put the fuses/relays for the starter solenoid and carb fan in a separate marine style waterproof box in the engine bay. From a circuit logic POV, I would essentially copy the X design but with added relays for headlights and wipers. I also regard the frunk as a better place for the fuse box as it is more waterproof than under the dash in an open car and also much easier to do fault finding standing up.... And this moves some weight forward :)

The existing X system uses simple spade based connectors so I would replace the connector bodies while retaining the spades on the various sub-systems [like ignition switch]. Easy as.
 
As I read the original post it is asking about using a aftermarket, generic, complete vehicle wiring kit. To me that is very different from swapping in a late model X1/9 harness or rebuilding the original harness. Having done a complete rebuild of the original harness I would say starting from scratch with a aftermarket kit like this might be a good option. Personally I think it may actually be less work and frustration than trying to fix all of the issues with a original harness....even without rodent damage. However that could depend on the year of the X, the overall goal of the restoration, and your knowledge/skills with electrical systems. But as was noted by @SuperTopo it will require a complete removal of the interior, as will restoring the original harness or any of the other options mentioned so far. Some benefits to completely replacing the entire system with a generic kit are: everything will be new, reliable, sensibly laid out, incorporating all the needed upgrades into the whole system, with modern components. You won't get all that with a factory harness. It's definitely worth consideration in my opinion. :)
The car is a 1980 model with a Toyota Starlet GT Turbo motor and Toyota 5 speed box.
I'm repainting the car (different colour) and straightening the dents and residual rust issues I didn't get the first time I refinished the car.
So it's all stripped out and on a rotiserie.
Thanks all for your help.
I'll keep you posted .
 
So you are thinking a total rewire - not remove an X system only to fit another X system. Good plan and gives you real freedom. This is actually easier than trying to get hold of another X system [as you are in Australia like moi] and the outcome will be lighter, safer, more efficient and easier to fault find. I figure you already know that you can get Australian X wiring diagrams at https://x19.com.au/manuals.html

If I were you and I do have some similar plans :) - I would put the new fuse/relay box in the frunk next to the battery. My logic is that all the high power devices [except starter and carb fan] are in front of the windscreen [Australian car so no power windows or AC]. Radiator fan, headlights, horns, wipers. The stock design takes power for those from the battery all the way inside the car to under the dash at the stock fuse/relay set and then back out to the devices. Lots of extra wire, lots of voltage loss and lots of physical packaging difficulty. I would put the fuses/relays for the starter solenoid and carb fan in a separate marine style waterproof box in the engine bay. From a circuit logic POV, I would essentially copy the X design but with added relays for headlights and wipers. I also regard the frunk as a better place for the fuse box as it is more waterproof than under the dash in an open car and also much easier to do fault finding standing up.... And this moves some weight forward :)

The existing X system uses simple spade based connectors so I would replace the connector bodies while retaining the spades on the various sub-systems [like ignition switch]. Easy as.
Good advice. Thanks.
I was intending to run a heavy main power supply wire through the car, along with an earth of similar weight powering relays directly..
I'm sick of bad earth connections on the body.
 
heavy main power supply wire through the car, along with an earth of similar weight
Me too - heavy cable positive from battery terminal to starter main power also serving as source of power to engine bay and heavy cable from negative to starter earth also serving as an engine bay earth. Big main fuse [circuit breaker] on the positive at the battery. The relays in the frunk have the REAL earth readily available and those at the back have damm near as good.
 
The car is a 1980 model with a Toyota Starlet GT Turbo motor and Toyota 5 speed box.
I'm repainting the car (different colour) and straightening the dents and residual rust issues I didn't get the first time I refinished the car.
So it's all stripped out and on a rotiserie.
Thanks all for your help.
I'll keep you posted .
OK, you have some issues I don't have [fuel injection, ECU] but the logic still works. That's a nice lump BTW and some pics would be appreciated by all!
 
I'll get out the shed today and take some pictures.
The blue car in my signature is a stock standard X that I got from Queensland about 6 years ago.
It's my daily driver and has all the bits. Even a functioning carbie fan with original paper tube and the little baffles in the bottom of the engine bay that I've never seen in an X before. Even the windscreen washer floppy bag is there and it works.
They are the first things to go when people start to work on the cars.
 
I started this over 2 years ago but got sidetracked by a Moto Guzzi Le Mans Mk4 barn find and the purchase of a 1980 1300 4 speed X1/9..
Anyway, I'm plodding on now.
The sharp eyed among you will spot that the sump on the Toyota 4EFTE motor is wrong as it has no turbo oil return. Thats because the original sump is getting the dents taken out.
The motor is a stock 4EFTE with no emissions bits, a reworked turbo and a straight through 2.5" exhaust.
The manifold flows 25% more than the original and I hope to push the power to a managable 190HP.
That is fed through the Toyota 5 speed box to modfied shafts.
It is very quick!
I haven't quite settled on a colour but I do like this:
image008.jpg



Fiat 5.jpg
Fiat 4.jpg
Fiat3.jpg
Fiat 6.jpg
Fiat 7.jpg
 
Excellent project! Looking forward to more details as it goes together.

I also like the red hot rod in the garage. :p
 
Good advice. Thanks.
I was intending to run a heavy main power supply wire through the car, along with an earth of similar weight powering relays directly..
I'm sick of bad earth connections on the body.
Not much point in running an earth wire through the car as the chassis already serves this function well. I understand that individual earth connections on the body might be problematic, but in this case you would be better off attaching a hefty earth terminal directly to the chassis at the rear of the car, rather than a wire running the full length. Assuming that you have a big bolt connecting the battery to the chassis at the front of the car and another big bolt attaching your ground terminal to the chassis at the rear of the car you should be fine.

Dom.
 
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